Installing DuPont™ Tyvek® starts by rolling it out horizontally at the base of the wall, ensuring the bottom overhangs by at least 2 inches. Overlap all horizontal and vertical seams by a minimum of 6 to 12 inches. Fasten the wrap every 6 to 18 inches using recommended cap fasteners to prevent blow-offs.
For standard Tyvek HomeWrap, it does not matter which side faces out or if it is installed upside down. The material is non-directional, meaning it provides the exact same breathability and water resistance regardless of orientation. The logos and printing on the wrap are primarily for advertising.
You should use plastic cap nails or cap staples to install Tyvek. Fasteners without caps can tear through the material in the wind or leave large holes that let water seep in.
Tyvek does not require an air gap to function as a water-resistive barrier, but creating one is highly recommended for enhanced moisture management, particularly with wood siding, stucco, or stone veneer. While it can be installed directly against sheathing, a drainage gap (via rainscreen) improves drying.
Correct house wrap installation involves starting at the bottom of the wall and working up, overlapping horizontal seams by at least 6 inches and vertical seams by 12 inches to create a "shingle effect" that sheds water. Secure the wrap with plastic-cap nails or staples every 12–18 inches, tape all seams and penetrations with manufacturer-approved tape, and integrate with window/door flashing.
Whether you tape horizontal seams on Tyvek depends on your building goals. If you only want a drainage plane to shed water, you do not need to tape them, provided the upper layer overlaps the lower layer by at least 6 inches. However, if you are building an airtight home, you must tape all seams.
Tyvek is highly popular, but it presents specific drawbacks depending on its application. For house wraps, its primary disadvantages include susceptibility to wind damage, vulnerability to UV degradation, and sensitivity to chemicals like surfactants, which can compromise its waterproofing ability.
In most cases, you should not tape the bottom edge of your house wrap to the foundation or flashing. The bottom edge must be left open so that any moisture trapped behind the wrap can easily drain out and escape.
No, it does not matter if Tyvek building wrap is installed upside down or even with the logos facing inward. The material is non-directional and functions exactly the same way regardless of orientation, providing the same air infiltration and moisture protection.
Neither is universally better; ZIP System is superior for airtightness, speed, and structural strength, while Tyvek is better for moisture management (breathability), forgiving installation, and upfront material costs.
To install Tyvek correctly, start at the bottom of the wall and work your way up to ensure proper shingling. Overlap horizontal seams by at least 6 inches, and vertical seams by 6 to 12 inches. Tape all seams, overlaps, and penetrations using DuPont Tyvek Tape.
T50 staples are the world's best-selling heavy duty staple platform. Made to deliver exceptional holding power, these staples are used for all heavy duty stapling applications from installing insulation, house wraps and roofing underlayments to upholstering fine furniture and window treatments.
House wrap should generally be installed before the windows. This allows the house wrap (or Water Resistive Barrier) to integrate with window flashing tapes. By wrapping first, you can tuck the top flap of the house wrap over the window's top nailing flange, ensuring water flows over the system.
Will duct tape work as well as Tyvek® Tape? No. Duct tape is not designed to be used with Tyvek® products. Tyvek® Tape has been specifically designed to work with Tyvek® products, and should be used in all situations when sealing of the Tyvek® seams is necessary.
Should Tyvek® weather barrier be placed over or under building sheathing? DuPont™ Tyvek® weather barriers can be used either over or under sheathing.
All horizontal laps in the membrane should be 100mm min. Vertical laps should be 150mm min. All laps may be sealed using Tyvek® Acrlylic Tape (2060B) if superior airtightness and water resistance is required.
Whether it's a horizontal or vertical application, or if outside corners need pretreatment, you want to ensure the size of your roll will completely cover the sheathing. For outside corners, consider installing one plane at a time since you won't be able to wrap around corners unless both sides are set.
No, functionally it does not matter which side of standard Tyvek faces out. Tyvek HomeWrap, DrainWrap, and StuccoWrap are completely non-directional and provide the same water resistance and breathability on both sides.
Yes, mice absolutely can get into a house under siding. Because their skeletal structure allows them to squeeze through gaps as small as a dime (about 14one-fourth14 of an inch), they often climb up exterior walls and slip directly underneath or behind siding materials.
Whether flashing goes under or over house wrap depends entirely on where the flashing is located. As a rule of thumb, all flashing must be installed "shingle-style"—meaning the top edge of the flashing goes under the house wrap, and the bottom edge hangs over the layer below it.
You should use plastic cap nails or plastic cap staples to fasten house wrap, not just regular staples or nails. Cap fasteners hold the wrap up to 25 times better than standard staples and seal the holes, preventing air and water infiltration. Using only staples can cause tearing in high winds.
While Tyvek manages moisture, it's not immune to all moisture-related problems. Two of its main issues are mold growth and sensitivity to surfactants.
Tyvek is highly water-resistant, but not completely waterproof. While it will repel light rain, shed water, and block wind, its fibrous structure allows water vapor to pass through, and extended water exposure or pressure (like sitting on wet ground) can force moisture through the material.