The Difference Between Faced And Unfaced Insulation Faced just means that kraft paper is attached to the insulation itself. The paper helps improve the sturdiness of the insulation so it doesn't fall down as much. Unfaced insulation is just as good as faced, but it doesn't have that paper attached to it.
Unfaced insulation is great for new construction, remodels, walls, floors, ceilings, basements, attics and crawlspaces. It's best used for interior wall applications that do not face the outside and also in rooms that don't need moisture control, like living rooms, dining rooms and studies.
For example, if you need extra soundproofing or don't want to spend time installing a separate vapor barrier, then face may be the best option for you. However, if cost savings are more important than convenience, then unfaced may be the better choice in this case.
(The general rule for insulation is that the facing always goes toward the conditioned space.) The second layer of insulation should be unfaced so that moisture doesn't collect between the layers.
If you're using faced insulation, install it with the vapor retarder positioned down toward the room. Hold the insulation up with one hand, while stapling the flange on both sides every 6" - 8" with the other hand. Leave a little extra on each end to cover the top plate of the outside wall.
Besides safety concerns, installation inexperience can result in insulation mistakes that can affect both the quality of your insulation and installation. Improper placement can leave gaps and cause energy loss, lessening the insulation's lifespan.
Last edited by Jim Underwood; 12-19-2013 at 9:52 AM. If you use faced insulation and staple the flanges to the studs, you do not need a vapor barrier. The vapor barrier is used when you use un-faced batts (without the paper).
R13 insulation is generally more affordable, which makes it an attractive option for budget-conscious projects. However, R19 insulation offers better long-term advantages because of its higher R-value.
Faced insulation is also a good idea if you are putting in first time insulation. Perhaps you've liked the warmth and energy protection of an installed insulated garage door and want even more insulation. If you're already adding insulation over existing insulation, faced insulation isn't necessary or suggested.
Yes, covering your insulation with a vapor barrier plastic before installing drywall is crucial. It prevents moisture buildup that can lead to mold, rot, and even structural damage. A polyethylene vapor barrier also adds a layer of fire protection, making your home safer.
Any new batt or roll insulation added on top of existing insulation in the attic needs to be without a vapor retarder (face). Most vapor retarders on fiberglass are made of kraft paper. The presence of this paper vapor retarder on top of between layers of insulation can trap moisture leading to mold or even rotting.
R13 batt insulation is typically used to attenuate sound in interior wall cavities. It is akin to a large blanket, designed specifically to fill a wall, floor, or ceiling cavity.
For one, the paper backing in the insulation makes it more combustible than unfaced insulation. Additionally, layers of faced insulation cost slightly more than unfaced insulation because of the vapor barrier. On average, faced insulation costs about $0.10 to $0.25 more per square foot than unfaced insulation.
Never place insulation close to water heaters, oil burners or anything hot. The backing is especially flammable and will be a major fire hazard for your home.
Is DuPont™ Tyvek® a vapor barrier? No, DuPont™ Tyvek® is not a vapor barrier. It is made with unique material science to keep air and bulk water out while allowing moisture vapor inside walls to escape.
The DOE Insulation Fact Sheet (DOE/CE-0180) can be ordered from the Energy Efficiency and Renewable Energy Clearinghouse or accessed from the Internet at www.ornl.gov/ roofs+walls. Fiberglass and rock wool batts—2x4 walls can hold R-13 or R-15 batts; 2x6 walls can have R-19 or R-21 products.
R15 insulation offers slightly better thermal insulative properties than R13. Some of its formats are a fraction of an inch thicker than R13, making it more effective at helping with energy efficiency. However, the difference is minimal. R15 is slightly thicker than R13 for spray foam and blown-in cellulose.
According to the U.S. Department of Energy, R-values for exterior walls in colder climates should be at least R-13 to R-23. In milder climates, a lower R-value may be sufficient. For example, in a moderate climate, an R-value of R-13 to R-15 is typically recommended.
Kraft-faced insulation should be installed in exterior walls, exterior basement walls, and attic ceilings by pressing the product into the wall cavity with the paper side facing outward, towards the installer. The insulation should be snug in the cavity, but not compressed.
For crawl space projecs that require a vapor barrier installed within walls, builders commonly use a thinner plastic sheeting option such as 6 mil, but for the best durability in the crawl space, our vapor barrier experts instead recommend choosing 8 mil plastic sheeting.
Faced insulation
Kraft and standard foil facings can burn and must not be left exposed. If an exposed application is required, use FSK-25 flame-resistant faced insulation.
The answer is yes, you can put new insulation over old. But there are some circumstances that would require insulation removal first, such as in the case of contaminated insulation from pests, water or smoke. Moisture is the biggest culprit, as it can lead to mold and mildew, as well as ceiling and roof rafter rot.
Wiring – When wiring exists in the cavities that are being insulated, simply split the insulation so that it is placed around the wire on both sides, allowing the wire to be comfortably nested inside the insulation.
If installed incorrectly, moisture can become trapped between the facing and cause mold, rotting, and reduced R-value.