We recommend starting in the left corner of the longest wall in the room and to install the planks in the same direction as the main light source (e.g. the main window). Planks are always installed from left to right.
In order to keep the floor straight and square, start laying the laminate away from the wall because the wall may not be straight. Measure away from the wall the width of one piece of flooring and add 1/4 inch (for example, if flooring is 5 inches wide, measure out 5 1/4 inches) and snap a chalk line across the room.
Start the second row where you started off the first. This will stagger the seams, which results in a more natural look. It also gives the flooring added stability. The seams should be staggered at least 12 inches from any adjacent seam.
Without an expansion gap 'buckling' is a common problem. The expanding laminate floor has no gap to allow for movement. This will cause laminate floorboards to be forced up, often causing a bounce. In extreme cases, it can damage the click system.
You should leave a 10mm gap between the laminate flooring and the walls on all sides. The same applies to other solid objects such as doorframes, heating pipes, stoves and radiators that are flush with the floor and furniture.
The direction you install your flooring makes an immense impact on the flow and spatial feel of a room. We recommend placing the planks parallel to the widest wall. This will create an elongated look by drawing attention to the longest portion of the space.
While laminate tends to be more forgiving of subfloor imperfections compared to other types of flooring, it is still important to level your flooring to avoid future damage if you are installing laminate flooring on an uneven subfloor. A level subfloor ensures a more attractive and long-lasting finish.
Not staggering the seams of your floor can create a disruptive pattern that attracts unwanted attention to individual planks. More importantly, improper staggering makes a less structurally sound floor more susceptible to bowing or warping.
Which side is the tongue, which the groove, and which goes first during installation? The tongue is the side that you will want to place against the wall as you start your laminate-flooring installation.
If you're installing your flooring on a main floor, you will want to float the floor in the same direction throughout all of the rooms to create a cohesive feel. If you have a width wise open concept, run the flooring parallel to the longest walls.
wait for the floor to cure
Before you use your new floor or move into the room, make sure the floor is completely cured. Do not walk on the floor for 24 hours after installation. If you do, it will damage the installation, resulting in an uneven floor.
Begin installation at the left-hand corner. Place the first plank with the tongue side towards the wall, being sure to allow 1/8" for expansion. We recommend cutting off the tongue on this first row to avoid any problem with the expansion gap.
Start With The Flooring
If you were to install the toilet and sink first, the caulking could crack due to the expansion and contraction, making the installation look sloppy. By installing the flooring first, you will also be able to more easily switch up cabinetry or fixtures, without having gaps in the flooring.
Whether you are installing vinyl, laminate, or any other type of flooring, it is advisable to install it under the toilet. This makes installation easy, as you will not go through the hassle of cutting the edges of your flooring to fit around your toilet.
The main things that you need to consider when choosing the thickness of your laminate floor are the evenness of your subfloor and any reason you may have to be worrying about noise reduction. If you have a subfloor that is in any way uneven, it pays off to choose a thicker laminate.
Forgetting to level the subfloor
The subfloor must be level before installing laminate flooring. If the subfloor is leveled, the laminate planks will not lay properly, causing uneven and unsightly floors. If the subfloor is not level, you can use a self-leveling compound to level it out.
There should be no more than 1/8 of an inch tolerance. Use a combination of grinding, sanding, and using a self levelling material to help ensure your floor is level and flat enough for proper installation.
A light-colored flooring such as light oak or a light-colored carpet will make the room appear brighter and more open. The same applies to the ceiling—use a light color or white to "open up" the space above.
Contrast Dark Floors With Light Walls
If your average-height ceilings aren't capturing the ambiance of the elegant cathedral ceilings you desire, a dark floor—whether hardwood, tile, or carpet—can make a light-colored ceiling seem even higher.
Some ways to do this are correct cleaning processes like sweeping and vacuuming your floors, preparing a laminate-formulated floor cleaner and spraying it on the floor, mopping the floor, air-drying the room, and buffing any additional dull spots.
ROBERTS Putty effectively fills gaps, nicks and scratches on Wood, Laminate and Vinyl flooring. Fast drying, it can be used during installation to fill nail and screw holes, or to repair damage on existing floors.
Foam backer rod helps to fill the empty space in the room perimeter expansion gap and reduces the amount of 100% flexible silicone sealant needed during installation. It also helps to ensure the silicone sealant stays towards the surface to properly span the gap between the top of the HydroShield floor and the wall.