The best paint for the inside of kitchen cabinets is a high-quality waterborne enamel or hybrid alkyd enamel. These paints cure to a hard, durable, furniture-like finish that resists chipping, scratching, and sticking (blocking) when shelves are loaded.
The best type of paint for inside kitchen cabinets is ADVANCE® Interior paint, which offers a premium furniture-like finish created to withstand wear and tear. ADVANCE is also available in any Benjamin Moore color.
You generally do not need to paint the inside of kitchen cabinets. Industry standard is to only paint the outside boxes, visible edges, and cabinet doors. However, you can paint the interiors if you want a clean, uniform look, have glass-front cabinets, or want to showcase open shelving.
What paint products do professional painters use for kitchen cabinets? A. Many paints and primers are available for professional painters to use when painting kitchen cabinets. Some products professional painters use include Benjamin Moore's Fresh Start® High-Hiding All-Purpose Primer and Advance® Interior Paint.
Satin is the goldilocks of cabinet sheens – not too shiny, not too flat. It provides a soft sheen that reflects just enough light to give cabinets a warm glow without being glossy. This sheen paint has become the go-to choice for kitchen cabinets as it balances aesthetic appeal with practical performance.
Recap: Painting Kitchen Cabinets
When Would you Not Use Eggshell Paint? It would help if you did not use this finish in high-traffic areas or on constantly touched objects—for example, kitchen cabinets and bathrooms. Instead, you would use a gloss because it's washable and withstands moisture better.
While a brush is useful for reaching into corners and crevices, as well as for touch-ups and painting cabinet interiors, it's best to use a roller or sprayer for the main surfaces. These tools provide a smoother, more even finish and help streamline the painting process.
The 1/3 Guideline (Your Easy Starting Point)
A simple rule of thumb: choose a pull with an overall length ≈ one-third the drawer width. Divide your drawer width by 3 to find a pleasing pull length—then choose the closest available size. It's a guide, not a law.
The most durable paint for kitchen cabinets is a water-based (acrylic) enamel or a waterborne polyurethane. These modern formulas provide the hard, scratch-resistant finish and easy cleanup of traditional oil paints, but won't yellow over time and emit fewer fumes.
Not Thoroughly Cleaning the Cabinets
If you don't plan to sand your cabinets, you really should wash them clean with a solution of water and dish soap before applying paint. There's a good chance grease and grime are coating the doors, and you should never paint over this—the paint will not adhere correctly if you do!
Avoid outdated cabinet shades like navy, cherry wood, mustard yellow, and country red. These colors once felt warm or luxurious but now make kitchens look dated or overly themed. Instead, choose softer neutrals, natural woods, or richer muted tones for a timeless feel.
What makes it look cheap: A lack of continuity disrupts the home's visual and physical flow, subtly cheapening the overall experience. Mismatched flooring, abrupt ceiling changes, or lighting that feels disconnected from nearby spaces can make the kitchen feel compartmentalized instead of cohesive.
Painting the insides of cabinets is not a common practice, and here's why. Most kitchen cabinets are already stained or sealed on the inside to protect against wear and tear. Manufacturers realize that you will be storing things like cans and cooking utensils inside of the cabinets, so the insides need to be protected.
White isn't going anywhere, it's just sharing the stage. Shades like mushroom and taupe are stepping into the spotlight. These hues bring warmth and depth without feeling dark or heavy. Think of them as the “perfectly brewed coffee” of cabinet colors — not too light, not too bold, just right.
This is a personal choice. If the cabinet doors are clear, you can add extra color by painting the inside of your cabinets. Some homeowners like the uniform color of matching the interior to the exterior. It also depends if you are refurbishing older cabinets and the inside is a different color than the outside.
Properly prepping your cabinets is the most critical step for a flawless, long-lasting finish. The process takes a few days but involves just five essential steps: removing the hardware, deep cleaning and degreasing, sanding to scuff the surface, filling any holes or damage, and masking surrounding areas before priming.
A big macro trend for 2026 interiors is “Modern Heritage,” which blends traditional details with modern function and personal character. In hardware, that shows up as classic knob and pull shapes (cup pulls, rounded knobs, subtle backplates) paired with updated finishes like brushed brass, deep bronze, or mixed metals.
So, a small 100-square-foot kitchen might require around 10 to 12 cabinets to be fully functional, while a larger 200-square-foot kitchen may comfortably accommodate closer to 20. But square footage alone isn't everything. You need to account for windows, appliance placement, and walkways.
Skipping surface preparation: The number one mistake (and the most costly) is inadequate prep work. Wood must be clean, dry, and properly sanded before painting. Grease, dirt, wax, and old polish create barriers that prevent paint adhesion.
Preferably, early morning usually works best for interior and exterior painting. The temperatures are lower, and the paint has all day to dry. Avoid painting late in the day when dew may start to form because it will keep the paint tacky or not dry.
Yes, you can use Murphy Oil Soap on kitchen cabinets, but it is specifically formulated for natural wood. If your cabinets are sealed wood, it is an excellent way to safely cut through kitchen grease and restore their natural shine.
Black, blue, and green: Darker shades like navy blue and hunter green feature intense pigments that can resist coverage, particularly by lighter colors. (If you've ever tried adding white paint over dark paint, you know how many coats you need for a solid finish!)
Satin vs. Eggshell Paint At a Glance
Both paints sit in the middle of the sheen scale, but satin is glossier, more durable, and easier to clean. Eggshell has a softer, velvety finish that better conceals wall imperfections. Use satin for high-traffic areas and eggshell for lower-traffic spaces.
Poor paint adhesion can manifest in several ways, including cracks, flaking, peeling, and other forms of paint failure. For example, if a wall is not properly cleaned before painting, the paint may fail to adhere and begin peeling within months.