When sharpening a knife, the direction you move the blade depends on the technique and the tool you are using. However, the foundational principle across most methods is that the blade should either move edge-leading (pushing the blade forward into the stone) or edge-trailing (pulling the blade backward).
In other words, if we take the example of classic knife sharpening on a full-size abrasive stone (whetstone), the motion of the blade with its cutting edge forward from one side of the abrasive to the other is sharpening "edge leading" ("push"). This motion resembles whittling a stick.
Here are the most common mistakes and proven ways to avoid them:
For most whetstone sharpening, you should move the knife forward (edge-leading/push stroke) or in circles, which helps create a sharper edge by efficiently cutting steel. For heavy sharpening or repair, many prefer a backward (edge-trailing) motion to avoid damaging the stone, though both directions can produce a sharp edge if used consistently.
The best way to tell is by asking the manufacturer of the knife. As a general guide, European/American knives manufactured before 2010 have 20 degree edges while Asian style knives have 15 degree edges. However, there are exceptions to this rule of thumb.
In the sharpening phase, we do not recommend any current WD-40® Brand Products although some may be used later for storage & protection. For sharpening stones the lubrication can come from water or oil.
The ideal sharpening angle for a butcher knife is 15∘15 raised to the composed with power𝟏𝟓∘ to 20∘20 raised to the composed with power𝟐𝟎∘ per side (creating an overall edge angle of 30∘30 raised to the composed with power30∘ to 40∘40 raised to the composed with power40∘). This range provides a balance of razor-sharp slicing performance and edge durability.
You can do both. Which motion you use depends on the sharpening tool you are working with:
Rule #1: It is important to use a knife adapted to what you want to do / food you want to prepare. For example, you shouldn't use a bread knife to slice a roast or use the blade of a paring knife and use it as a screwdriver (don't laugh, we've all done it!) Rule #2: Don't drop your knife on the floor.
Sharpening a knife effectively relies on maintaining a consistent angle (usually 15 to 20 degrees), applying steady pressure (about 2-4 lbs), and establishing a wire edge or "burr". The most precise way to restore a razor-sharp, custom edge is by using a flat whetstone.
Pull-through sharpeners are not universally "bad," but they are generally discouraged for high-quality or expensive knives. They offer quick, convenient edge maintenance but are highly aggressive, removing excess metal and often leaving a fragile, jagged edge.
In the high-end folding knife community, the original "Holy Trinity" refers to three legendary American makers who pioneered the modern premium tactical folder. Together, their designs set the gold standard for durability and precision.
As you sharpen a knife, you're actually removing material from the blade. That material raises up to form a burr on the opposite side of the knife as you move the blade back and forth over the whetstone. You'll push fairly hard at first, for maybe ten passes, depending on what kind of shape the blade is in.
The more you sharpen a knife, the sharper it will get
This is not true. Over-sharpening a knife can actually damage the edge and make it duller.
There is no set number of strokes to sharpen a knife. It depends entirely on how dull the blade is and the grit of your stone.
Jack's Law allows police to use handheld metal detectors to scan people and their belongings to detect knives and other weapons in any public space or entertainment venue.
Do not use the knife while distracted. Do not leave the knife near the edge of counters or tables or in a sink full of soapy water. Use knives only for cutting food. Carry knives with the blade pointed downward.
In most places, including across the U.S., it is not illegal to carry a standard, non-locking Swiss Army Knife. Because they generally have small blades (under 3 inches) and require two hands to open, they are classified as legal pocket knives rather than prohibited weapons.
Cutting boards made of glass, granite, ceramic, or your dinner plate may look stylish or convenient, but they are the fastest way to destroy a knife's edge. These surfaces are harder than your knife's steel. So every time your blade contacts them, it suffers microscopic edge deformation, chipping, or even rolling.
Common knife sharpening mistakes include applying too much pressure, failing to maintain a consistent sharpening angle, and using dry or uneven stones. These errors can damage the blade, cause chipping, or ruin the edge geometry.
We tend to grind to 13-16 degrees per side. If you match the existing edge angle and hold the knife against the stone to cut evenly across the edge grind, you will produce an edge with a similar angle.
Coarse grits (e.g., 300) are suitable for repairs, medium grits (300-500) for basic sharpening, and fine grits (500-1000) for fine sharpening and polishing. For most European knife types, a sharpening angle of 15 degrees is ideal.
To check whether your knife edge is 15 or 20 degrees, use the Sharpie test: color the blade's edge with a marker, run it through your sharpener at a set angle (or use an angle guide), and see if the marker is completely erased. If it is, that is your angle.