The presence of too much algaecide can lead to a foamy pool water. Small bubbles will begin to be produced as the water is pushed through the return jet and back into the pool. Do not confuse these bubbles and foam with another common problem, which is air in your pool lines.
As for your foaming, it will dissipate over time as the algaecide will slowly break down from chlorine. You can shock the pool with higher chlorine levels if you want to get rid of it faster, but this is not necessary as it will go away probably in about a week (two at the most).
If you add algaecide, keep in mind that some algaecide contains copper, which can actually make a pool cloudy. If the cloudiness persists 24 hours after shocking, then it's possible that you used a poor-quality chlorine shock.
Now is the time to add Pool Clarifier and let it circulate for 12 hours. This will clump the algae together into vaccumable pieces. Shut your pump off and let the cloudiness settle. This may take up to a few days for very cloudy pools.
The algaecide in the kit can cause some foam if there is no algae in the pool to destroy – it lingers around with nothing to kill. Spring time algaecides use surfactants to work and these molecules can react with agitation to cause froth.
Swimming pool foam can be a huge distraction in and outside of your pool. Foam, or bubbles, make the water feel sticky and can make swimming uncomfortable for some. Good news for the kids, though, a foamy pool is safe to swim in. Still, we always recommend getting rid of the foam as soon as possible.
Run your pump overnight, or if possible, for 24 hours to clean all the debris from your pool water.
Pour the algaecide dose into the water, depositing it in several areas around the pool. Your swimming pool pump should be running at this time to help circulate the algaecide. Wait about 30 minutes before allowing anyone to swim after the algaecide application.
Add a dose of algaecide, bring your chlorine level high by shocking, and run the filter continuously until the problem clears. The next day you should vacuum up the dead algae and backwash your filter. Algae thrives in hot weather and in pools with low or no chlorine.
While shocking and adding algaecide is effective in getting rid of algae, it should not be done together. This is because when you mix chlorine and algaecide together, it renders both of them useless. Hence, you should first shock the pool and wait for the chlorine levels to fall below 5 PPM.
There are a few different types of algaecides that contain various chemicals to suppress and fight off algae. Many of them include copper or copper sulfate. It's this copper that oxidizes in the water. And when copper oxidizes it turns a green color causing your pool to look green.
When closing and winterizing your pool, it is important to remember to balance your pool water's chemistry prior to closing and don't forget the algaecide. Algaecide is simple and effective with one quart of winter algaecide typically enough to treat 20,000 gallons of water all winter long.
pH Balance and Chlorine
Algaecides do not directly affect the pH balance in your pool, but too much algae will raise the pH level. By eliminating algae, the algaecide helps return pH levels to normal. Algaecide also works together with chlorine, helping the chlorine to be more effective against algae and bacteria.
Let the water circulate for at least two hours.
Circulate the water for about 2 hours to ensure the flocculant is fully mixed in, then shut off your pump and let it sit overnight. During this time, the chemical will start to bind the particles together and settle them to the bottom of the pool.
Pools can immediately turn green after shocking when they have metals like copper in the water. These metals oxidise when exposed to high levels of chlorine which makes the pool water turn green. Adding a metal control product such as Zodiac Metal Remover will help to restore the pool water.
Chemical imbalances, high levels of organic contaminants, or a low calcium level can all create pool foam. In some cases, shocking the pool will solve it. In others, you may need to balance the water chemistry, or change the pool chemical brands you're using.
Air bubbles in your pool mean that air is being sucked into the line on the suction side of the pump. It's likely happening because of one of these issues: The pool water level is too low. The strainer pot lid isn't on tight or its O-ring is loose/absent/compromised.
Foamy pools might look kind of cool sometimes—sort of like a giant bubble bath. But a foamy pool is actually not a good thing, because what it usually means is that your water is too “thick.” And that's just as gross as it sounds!
One final note on algaecide: Contact algaecide is different from liquid algaecide. Many liquid algaecides don't work in cold water, and we don't recommend using them even in the warm months.
Shock and Chlorinate Your Pool
Shocking kills any bacteria that might linger in your pool during the winter. We recommend shocking a few days before you close the pool. If that is not possible, make sure to shock the pool the night before you close it for winter.
Definitely close your pool before the temperatures fall under 30°F (-1°C) at night. As long as the pump is running, the water is moving, so it won't freeze. But if you lose electricity during a storm and it gets down below freezing, the water will freeze in the pump and filter.
Pool water turns green because of algae in the water. Algae can grow rapidly, particularly when it's warm like Summer, which is why it can surprise you overnight. This generally comes down to an imbalance or lack of chlorine in the water.