Pruning during the growing season always stimulates new growth. During summer's heat, having to produce that ill-timed new flush of growth greatly stresses a tree. Pruning in the fall is even worse as it prevents the tree from going into a natural dormancy. The exception is heavily damaged, disease or dead wood.
Most vines can be pruned in late winter or early spring before they begin to leaf out (March through early April). The exception to this are spring flowering vines, such as wistera, which should be pruned immediately after flowering.
Trees also heal more quickly when pruned before spring bud break. Avoid pruning in fall. Pruning cuts can stimulate new growth that, unfortunately, will be killed as temperatures drop to freezing.
The 1/3 rule involves cutting about 1/3 of wood during any pruning activity. This moderate pruning practice is a balanced approach to thinning out shrubs to stimulate new growth. The plant loses a good amount of stems, usually on the top section, allowing more light and air to enter the inside of the plant.
How to Fix an Over-Pruned Tree or Shrub. While some plants need a heftier prune than others, in general, the golden rule is to trim no more than 15 to 20 percent of a tree's canopy at one time. Keep that in mind for next time.
If you need to drastically reduce the size of a shrub or tree, it's often best to look at it as a long-term project, cutting off no more than a third at one time and giving it plenty of time to recover between pruning sessions.
Pruning to remove damaged, dead or diseased parts can be done at any time of the year. Most trees and shrubs, especially those that flower on current season's new growth should be pruned in late winter or early spring before the onset of new growth. (March-April).
According to Ramsey County Master Gardener Volunteers, February is the best time to prune your trees. In February, harmful tree diseases are at a minimum and deciduous trees have already “hardened off”, meaning they have prepared for winter dormancy.
As a general rule, prune spring-blooming trees immediately after they flower. Prune trees that bloom in the summer or fall in late winter or early spring before the end of their dormancy. Routine pruning of dead or dying branches can be done at any time.
Few plants are pruned this time of year because pruning encourages new growth that does not have time to harden off before winter. Late-season pruning typically does more harm than good.
Pruning of fruit trees shouldn't be done until late winter or early spring. Don't give in to the temptation to get started doing needed pruning work as soon as the leaves have dropped. Fall or early winter pruning can make trees more susceptible to winter injury.
ALWAYS prune back to or just above a growing point (branch or bud) or to the soil line. NEVER leave a stem or branch stub. NEVER top a tree to “rejuvenate” growth.
A summertime shape up is healthy for people and trees alike. Although the best time to prune any plant is typically in its dormant phase, trees will benefit from a nice mid-season trim as well. Summer trims can cut down on the amount of pruning you'd have to do later in the year.
There is never a bad time to remove dead, damaged or diseased branches. But most trees benefit from pruning in mid to late winter. Pruning during dormancy encourages new growth as soon as the weather begins to warm. The lack of leaves after autumn allows you to easily identify branches and limbs requiring removal.
If it's raining – don't prune! Wait until you have a few days of dry weather. Rain can spread disease. Get the right tools.
Proper pruning can offer trees several benefits. It can increase flowering, fruit production, promote healthy new growth, increase sun light and air circulation, and maintain a desired shape and/or size.
Choose the Right Time
Likewise, prune in the early morning or late afternoon to avoid the newly cut ends of branches becoming scorched by the hot sun. Wait 48 hours after rain to prune, to allow plants to dry out and avoid fungal diseases. When pruning, make cuts just above leaf nodes, or buds.
Over pruning reduces the foliage needed to make food for the tree, so in effect, it starves it. When a tree has been over pruned, you may not see much new growth during the spring. In the winter, more branches than usual will break as a result of heavy loads.
In pruning, there are three primary types of pruning cuts, thinning cuts, reduction cuts, and heading cuts, each giving different results in growth and appearance.
Periodically, large, deciduous shrubs need more extensive pruning than they usually receive. This is called rejuvenation pruning, and it involves removing branches all the way down to their base.
The node is where leaves, buds and shoots emerge from the stem. You should always cut just above a node, as this prevents 'die back' and therefore disease. Also, by cutting above a node you can manipulate new stems, leaves or flowers to form in a desired direction, as nodes form on different sides of a stem.
By removing the apex, pruning temporarily destroys apical dominance and stimulates the growth of lateral buds into shoots. Figure 4. Pruning stimulates lateral shoot growth close to the cut. Pruning also reduces the size of the above-ground portion of the plant in relation to the root system (Fig.
After a tree is topped, it grows back rapidly in an attempt to replace its missing leaves. Leaves are needed to manufacture food for the tree. Without new leaves, the tree will die. The new branches that sprout up below the cuts will continue to grow quickly until they reach the same size it was before it was topped.