Wood needs to be sanded well before it can be stained. The process opens up the wood's pores to better absorb the stain. It also smoothes away scratches in the surface which will only be enhanced by stain.
Sanding is absolutely vital to achieving good results with staining wood. You should never start staining until you've thoroughly sanded your piece first.
Why is Sanding Wood so Important? First and foremost, it smooths out rough surfaces. If you're thinking about working with untreated wood, all those ridges and knots must go before you slap a coat of paint on it. Otherwise, you'll wind up with an uneven paint job and, more than likely, an unwelcome splinter surprise.
The other consequence of not sanding properly will be that the board will only be surface stained. It's either the stain won't dry properly or will flake off in a few weeks. It would be sad to see all that hard work go to waste.
Use a belt sander or orbital sander to remove any old gloss and smooth out any rough areas on decking boards. Move the sander along the direction of the wood grain. You may need to use a sanding sponge on the railings or balustrades. Lower grit numbers are more aggressive and will remove material faster.
Often when people restain timber, the old Stain is either sanded away, is already flaking off, or can be restained over. While you can restain a deck over an existing stain without sanding or removing the existing peeling product, this isn't always recommended and can leave your deck looking a little worse for wear.
If you really want to avoid sanding, you can use a liquid sander or deglosser. These products help dull the existing finish on your floor so that a new stain or finish can adhere properly. A liquid sander is easy to apply—just wipe it on, wait a few minutes, and then wipe it off.
The golden rule of sanding is to never skip more than one grit as you progress in finishing to avoid deep scratches and imperfections. Each grit size is designed for removing material or finishing. Following the grit sequence can save time by preventing damage that can take longer to fix.
Instead of sanding, use a liquid deglosser to dull the existing finish. This product helps you prepare the surface for new stain or paint without the need to strip or sand. Wipe it on with a cloth, and it removes the glossy top layer, making the surface ready for refinishing.
Water popping or grain-popping consists of introducing clean water to an unfinished wood surface to open or "pop" the smooth and closed wood grain. Wood, by its nature, is hygroscopic and absorbs water. As wood absorbs water the wood cells expand (open) and as the water evaporates the expanded cells remain more open.
Can I Fix Blotchy Stain Without Stripping? Yes, in many cases, lightly sanding the surface and applying a second coat of stain, after using a wood conditioner, can help blend the uneven areas without having to strip the wood completely.
Minwax® PolyShades® is an easy way to change the color of your currently stained or polyurethane finished wood. There's no stripping or heavy sanding necessary to remove the old finish!
If you sand in between coats of stain, you risk breaking the color and damaging the stain. Instead, you should sand the raw wood before applying a stain.
One common mistake is not replacing the sandpaper frequently enough, especially when it becomes clogged. This often happens due to a lack of experience or the desire to save money by using fewer sandpaper sheets. However, continuing to sand with worn or clogged sandpaper is a big mistake.
With enough time and energy spent sanding, you can still end up with the same result. However, because we skipped so many grits, it is going to take much more time and effort to lower the 80-grit peaks and establish the 180-grit scratch pattern that we need for a high-level finish.
To know when you are done sanding, look at the wood in a low-angle reflected light. Or wet the wood then look at it from different angles. Before you apply your finish, raise the grain by wiping the surface with water. Then sand lightly to remove the nubs from the raised grain.
When preparing wood for stain, you'll need to sand its surface. Use a sanding sponge or orbital sander. Sandpaper with a lower grit number will make wood rougher, allowing more stain to absorb and creating a darker color. Start with 120-grit sandpaper for pieces that already have a finish.
Our entirely waterbased system can help contractors change a wood floor color without sanding with a simple, easy-to-follow process. The TyKote® Dust-Free Refinishing System was originally developed for the sport market, but has been successfully used on sport, commercial, and residential installations for decades.
If it is finished hardwood or plywood you are gonna have to sand off the finish before staining, stains won't be able to properly penetrate the wood through the finish.
The level of your prep depends on the current condition of your deck and the type of stain used. If the deck has a previous coating, such as a solid or semi-transparent stain, varnish, or water sealer, etc, this will ideally need to be stripped away or sanded before restaining.
Additionally, if there is any mold or mildew on the deck, staining over it can lock in the spores and cause the problem to worsen over time. Power washing your deck before staining it can help remove any dirt, grime, or mildew and prepare the surface of the wood for better absorption of the stain.