It could be some remaining finish, a glue drip that soaked in while you were working, or something else. You've got a couple options. If you have a good sander, try sanding down the area and testing the stain again.
If the wood stain remains on the wood, liquid solvents in the stain will evaporate, leaving sticky pigments behind that will never fully dry. To remove tacky wood stain, firmly scrub the piece with mineral spirits.
Sand to a coarser grit. To get a darker coloring with any stain when you are wiping off the excess, sand to a coarser grit. More of the colorant will lodge in the sanding scratches, producing a darker effect.
If the color is then not even, or it's too light, you'll need to apply more stain. Switch to a slower drying stain, work on smaller sections at a time, or apply and wipe off the stain faster by using a cloth or spray gun to apply the stain and a large dry cotton cloth to remove the excess stain.
No, the sticky stains will not dry after some time, which is why it is important to wipe off the excess wood stain. If you don't, your work will end up sticky because the stain did not dry properly. You will have to use mineral spirits, more stain, or sandpaper to fix the mess.
Give it a few more days to see if it improves. Another possibility is that the stain was old or came from a bad batch. In either case if the tackiness doesn't go away, wipe the wood down with mineral spirits or naphtha to remove most of the stain, let it dry thoroughly, then try again using a fresh can of stain.
There are a couple of reasons wood won't absorb stain. These include staining sealed wood, sanding too finely, and working with tight-grained woods that don't take stain.
Uneven Stain Coloring - Too Light
If you find that some areas of the wood stain are lighter than the target color you have in your head, you can apply additional stain to those areas. Use a piece of cloth or rag to apply another coat of the same stain to the wood in the area that is too light.
We always recommend two coats of stain for any wood project, but you should only apply as much stain as the wood can absorb. Extremely dense hardwoods may only be able to absorb one coat of wood stain. The general rule of thumb is to apply only as much deck stain as the wood can absorb.
Apply a second coat of stain after the first has dried fully. This will usually produce a darker coloring, but it adds a step to the process and slows production. Substitute a glaze or gel stain for the liquid stain. Glazes and gel stains usually contain a higher ratio of pigment.
The new stain you are applying over the old stain should be compatible. For instance, if it's an oil-based stain, apply another oil-based stain. If it's a water-based stain, apply another water-based stain. Incompatible stains can lead to poor adhesion or blotchy and uneven finish.
If the first layer of stain looks perfect, then great! You do not need to add a second layer. You should reserve adding a second layer only if you want a darker color for the stain. However, many times, the first layer of stain will suffice for both adequate protection and the desired color.
If a second coat is applied, it builds the thickness and two things happen. First, the sealer or top coat cannot penetrate through the stain to grab the wood fiber. This causes the second issue, the bond now relies on the strength of the stain to bond the surface coats to the wood.
Using most gel stains, you can darken wood furniture, or stay the same color, without sanding off the old stain. But, I usually use General Finishes Gel Stain because the finish always looks beautiful. Don't forget to Save or Share these steps for how to stain wood without sanding.
On average, wood stain takes about 24 to 72 hours to fully dry and cure, though you can typically add a second coat after about four hours.
Staining has the extra step of removing the excess stain before it dries. You want to make sure that you remove any excess before it dries. If excess is allowed to dry on top of the wood, it leaves a glossy sheen on the wood that doesn't match the rest of the wood. This can give your wood a blotchy look.
Yes, each layer will darken your project even more. You can also start with a lighter color Gel Stain and layer on darker colors.
Instead, it will create a tacky surface, which may be prone to early peeling. Because the additional coat is not penetrating the wood, it is simply layered on top, which will cause the coat to be more fragile and will not offer the same level of protection as the proper amount of stain.
When first applied, window tint may appear darker than anticipated. However, as it cures and dries the film will lighten slightly. If after some time your tint still looks wet with no prospect of drying or curing in sight, do not hesitate to reach out to a professional tinting shop for assistance.
Depending on the type of stain you are using, most stains are dry and cured within 24 hours to 48 hours. After that time, it's safe for additional coats or to apply polyurethane or the sealer of your choice.
While staining creates a rich, deep color that highlights natural wood grain, it does not provide long-term protection. Without a protective top coat, wood can be damaged easily due to contact with water, food, or sharp objects. A polyurethane top coat protects the wood from scratches, stains and water damage.
Sand. After the first “sealer” coat has dried, sand it smooth using very fine sandpaper. Not doing this is probably the single most common cause of finishes not feeling smooth after all coats have been applied. The most important thing you can do to achieve smooth results is to sand the first coat smooth.
So, can you apply polyurethane over tacky stains? It's not recommended to do so. It may result in a sticky finish. It's important to allow the stain to fully dry before applying poly, especially with oil-based wood stains.