If you plant a pot-bound plant into the ground or into another pot without first loosening the tangled and overgrown roots, they will continue to grow in a circle rather than reaching out into the soil to anchor the plant.
Loosening the root ball when repotting is only essential when the plant has become completely root bound. In cases where they are not completely rootbound, you may be able to plant directly into the next pot. If the roots are not wrapped tightly around each other, there is no need to cut and disturb them.
Remove about one-third or more of the old potting mix surrounding the plant's roots. As it grew, your plant removed some or all of the nutrients in the current mix, so you'll want to give it fresh potting mix or soil. Pour a layer of fresh potting soil into the empty planter and pack it down, removing any air pockets.
Root damage is very common during replanting and it is bound to happen since plants prefer to hold soil.
Roots packed tightly in a pot don't take up nutrients efficiently. To promote good nutrient absorption, trim the roots and loosen up the root ball before replanting. Use a sharp knife or pruning shears for this job, removing as much as the bottom third of the root ball if necessary.
It may take a few days to adjust, but your plant will soon settle into its roomier digs and produce new growth again. And not only does repotting root-bound plants freshen up your greenery, but it's also an opportunity to update your decor with a stylish container.
Transplant shock can be caused by incorrect planting. Frequently, plants being repotted don't have very big root systems. Damaging or disturbing these less developed root systems too much during repotting can definitely cause transplant shock.
However, repotting can be a somewhat traumatic experience for plants, and some are more sensitive to this disruption than others. The journey from the garden center to your home is quite an adjustment for your plants, and they should be given a little time to rest before repotting.
Plants with damaged roots show symptoms on the side of the plant where roots have been severed. These include sparse leaves, leaf wilting and browning, and branch dieback. Other stress symptoms can include scorch and early fall color.
The idea is to soak the plant for several minutes in water prior to planting. When you plant, fill up a large bucket with water–preferably rainwater since it does not have any of the chlorine or other chemicals of municipal water. Take the plant out of its pot and gently pull any encircled roots away from the plants.
Worms, bacteria, fungi, and other organisms all nibble away, ultimately converting the dead roots back into nutrients available for other living plants. And the cycle repeats. In the process, soil organic matter, soil carbon, and overall soil structure are all improved.
The amount of time it takes for tree roots to decompose will depend on the tree species. But generally, it takes between 5 and 10 years, and hardwoods take longer than softwoods.
It can be quite normal for plants to temporarily stop growing after repotting, especially if you went up a lot bigger in pot size. What you want to try to avoid is transplant stress, such as yellowing, wilting, dropping leaves, roots that don't recover, root rot or even plant death.
As roots take over the interior space of the container, little room is left for soil to hold water, which may lead to root death. Allowing root-bound plants to continue to grow in this fashion will not only stunt the plant's growth, but also it can bring about the plant's overall demise.
Plants and trees can experience transplant shock for two weeks to five years. It is more likely that the plant will die if the transplant shock persists for a long time.
The telltale signs of shock are yellowing or brown wilted leaves that droop drastically. Often a stressed plant becomes very delicate and the leaves easily fall off, if touched or bumped.
Leaf scorch is a common symptom of transplant shock. Leaf scorch first appears as a yellowing or bronzing of tissue between the veins or along the margins of leaves of deciduous plants (those that lose their leaves in winter). Later, the discolored tissue dries out and turns brown.
If the new potting mix is already slightly moist, then soaking the root system when you're done isn't necessary. In fact, if the soil is already wet, watering at the end just for the sake of it can cause stress on the plant.
Sugar water does not do anything to help plants with transplant shock, and it can make it worse. Often, plants recover on their own. Just give them time, keep them well-watered and protect them from too much sun to prevent more leaf scorch.
Soak the roots.
Once you've removed the plant from its small container, assess the condition of its roots. Gently shake the root ball of the plant to clear some of the dirt away. Soak the plant's root ball overnight to loosen them up for detangling.