Most ice makers are built around a tray that has semicircular or rectangular depressions in it. A valve above this controls the flow of water, filling the tray with enough water to fill the depressions, forming the shape of the ice cube.
If water is coming out of the fridge spigot but not filling the ice maker, it could indicate a problem with the ice maker itself. There might be a blockage in the water line leading to the ice maker, a malfunctioning water inlet valve, or an issue with the ice maker's mechanism.
Just before the ice cubes are pushed out of the icemaker, a plastic drive cam catches the shut-off arm and lifts it up. Once the cubes are pushed out, the arm falls again. When the arm reaches its lowest point, it flips a circuit switch, activating the water valve to begin another cycle.
First, the icemaker itself is what cycles and sends power to the valve once it cycles in order to fill the tray up with water. I see you replaced the valve already so disconnect the water line going to the icemaker from the valve and blow through it to make sure the water line isn't frozen up above the icemaker.
The control board sends voltage to the ice maker motor to rotate the motor. It also sends voltage to the water valve to fill the ice maker. Of course the ice maker water valve is separate of the water valve that delivers water to the dispenser in the door.
When the icemaker calls for ice, its switch closes an electrical circuit and energizes the solenoid-operated water valve. This allows water to flow through the valve and into the ice cube tray. The water is frozen into cubes, and the cubes are dumped into the ice bin.
Your multitester should display a reading between 200 and 500 ohms. Closely examine your water inlet valve. The exact ohm resistance rating you should test for may be marked on the valve. If the test you conduct with your icemaker water inlet valve does not produce these results, then you should replace the component.
The icemaker has a water pump, which draws water from a collection sump and pours it over the chilled ice tray. As the water flows over the tray, it gradually freezes, building up ice cubes in the well of the tray.
When the water level decreases, the float goes down and moves away from the reed switch. The system opens and then produces an electrical signal and then triggers an alarm telling the panel that the water level is too low. At the same time, the “Add Water” indicator light will be on.
Some indicators may include odd tasting ice or water, slowly dispensed water, black specks in water or ice and, of course, limited to no ice production.
Clogged water lines
Water lines won't be able to deliver the proper flow of water to your ice machine if the line is too small or plugged by mineral content. The cold temperatures of the winter months can lead to frozen water lines, which is among the most common ice maker problems caused by cold weather.
When the ice reaches a certain thickness (depending on your ice type), the sensor detects a drop in freezer temperature and signals the ice maker to begin the dump cycle.
Non-plumbed fridge freezers use an alternative method to produce ice without a direct water connection. These models typically feature a manual water-fill option, allowing users to pour water into a dedicated ice tray or reservoir inside the freezer compartment.
If the refrigerator water dispenser is not working but the ice maker is, your water pressure could be to blame. Your fridge needs less pressure to make ice than it does to dispense water. Check your refrigerator's manual to see the necessary water psi for both to function.
The water valve in your refrigerator is like the gatekeeper for your ice maker and water dispenser. It controls the flow of water, ensuring that you have ice for your drinks and water on demand.
Hydraulic flow control valves react to changes in the parameters they sense by either opening or closing to control the flow rate. This is a “progressive” process, meaning that an increase in demand results in the valve reducing the flow progressively.
The water inlet valve is an electronically operated device that connects the household water supply to your fridge if you have an icemaker and/or water dispenser. This valve is usually located at the back of the fridge near the bottom. It supplies water to the dispenser and water the icemaker.
A thermostatic bin control sensor uses a thermostatic bulb hanging from the ice maker to determine the ice level in the bin. The bulb contains temperature-sensitive fluid that expands when the temperature drops.
Water supply problems
Make sure that the refrigerator water supply cut-off valve is open. If it's shut, open the cut-off valve to restore the water supply to the fridge and ice maker. If you found the water supply cut-off valve open, check for water flow coming from the water supply line going to your refrigerator.
Inspect your water inlet valve
If that line gets blocked, water won't be able to go into your ice maker. If you have particularly hard water, it may be that mineral deposits have created a blockage.
You will know your washing machine water inlet valve is bad if the washer doesn't run, won't fill appropriately, or washes at the incorrect water temperature. You might also notice leaks, overfilling sounds, or vibrating.
Alternatively, you can defrost the water line with a hair dryer or by letting the refrigerator sit unplugged for upward of two hours. Restore power to the refrigerator and listen for the water supply to fill the ice mold. If the clog is anything but translucent, consult with a professional for help removing the clog.