The icemaker has a heating coil underneath the ice mold. When everything is hooked up, the icemaker begins its cycle. The cycle is usually controlled by a simple electrical circuit and a series of switches.
When the icemaker calls for ice, its switch closes an electrical circuit and energizes the solenoid-operated water valve. This allows water to flow through the valve and into the ice cube tray. The water is frozen into cubes, and the cubes are dumped into the ice bin.
There is a thermostat under the ice tray that measures the temperature of the tray. When it gets down to freezer temp the ice maker harvests the cubes. On its way around the timer calls for 5-7 seconds of water to fill the tray. The thermostat watches the tray and the cycle goes on.
These sensors are small and look like a marble that has been cut in half, and are located within the entrance of the ice chute.
Once the ice maker has been connected to a power and water source (aka the plumbing line connected to the back of your refrigerator), the ice maker cycle should begin automatically. At the beginning of the cycle, an electrical signal is sent to a water valve to fill the ice mold with water.
If the ice maker makes cubes and kicks them into the bucket – the water inlet valve is bad. If there are no new cubes in the bucket – the ice maker is bad.
Check the water fill tubes
Check the fill cup and the tube at the back of the ice maker. If they are covered in ice, look for a blockage. If you see an obstruction, check out our guide on how to clean your refrigerator water line for detailed steps. If that doesn't work, consider replacing the water fill tubes.
But how does your fridge know when to stop making ice? This is where sensors come into play. Built into your ice maker, these sensors monitor the temperature and the quantity of ice in the bin. Once the ice reaches a certain level or if the temperature isn't optimal for ice production, the ice maker takes a break.
Our icemakers have a thermostat located in the first slot of the icemaker mold or next to the first mold where the cubes are formed. The thermostat senses the temperature of the mold.
Make sure that the sensor is not dirty or has a mineral build-up. The sensor can be cleaned with a soft towel and warm soapy water.
Refrigerator Auger Motor
If the auger motor is burned out or defective, the ice won't move forward and fall through the chute. To determine if the auger motor is defective, pull out the ice bucket and turn the bucket auger by hand. If the auger turns freely, use a multimeter to test the auger motor for continuity.
To turn ON the icemaker, lower the feeler arm to the ON (down) position.
Once the cubes are pushed out, the arm falls again. When the arm reaches its lowest point, it flips a circuit switch, activating the water valve to begin another cycle. If the arm cannot reach its lowest position, it will not activate the cycle, which will keep your ice collection bin from overflowing.
The cycle is usually controlled by a simple electrical circuit and a series of switches. In the diagram below, you can see how the icemaker moves through its cycle. At the beginning of the cycle, a timed switch in the circuit briefly sends current to a solenoid water valve.
There are two methods for this: either an optical sensor or a mechanical arm, which detects when ice has piled high enough. If your ice maker won't stop making ice, it means ice is not piling high enough to reach the sensor or arm, typically because the ice bucket is not in the proper position.
Ice Maker Thermostat
Start by testing the thermostat when it is cold, about 10 degrees. Insert one probe into the hole labeled "T" and the other probe labeled "H." The meter should indicate zero resistance. After the ice maker has warmed up, repeat the test, and this time the meter should indicate infinity.
The water inlet valve is an electronically operated device that connects the household water supply to your fridge if you have an icemaker and/or water dispenser. This valve is usually located at the back of the fridge near the bottom. It supplies water to the dispenser and water the icemaker.
Yes, the water inlet is controlled thru a circuit in the ice maker control module on the front of the assembly. the fill circuit in the control activates the water valve solenoid for 7.5 seconds(on average)and usually allows 4.0 to 4.5 oz. of water to fill the ice maker mold.
Note: Most residential ice machines use timers or water level sensors to regulate the ice production.
If your ice maker isn't producing ice at all or is producing crescents or cubes that are smaller than usual, it's typically indicative of a clog somewhere along the supply line. Cause: A common cause for a clog is frozen water in the line. Fix: To repair a frozen line, slide the refrigerator and unplug it.
First, the icemaker itself is what cycles and sends power to the valve once it cycles in order to fill the tray up with water. I see you replaced the valve already so disconnect the water line going to the icemaker from the valve and blow through it to make sure the water line isn't frozen up above the icemaker.
If you don't hear a chime, but you can see movement from the ice maker, then the ice maker was reset. If you don't hear a chime and there is no movement from the ice maker, unplug the fridge or turn it off at the circuit breaker for 2 minutes. Then, power it back up and try again.