In pruning, there are three primary types of pruning cuts, thinning cuts, reduction cuts, and heading cuts, each giving different results in growth and appearance.
The two basic types of pruning cuts are heading and thinning. Thinning cuts are the least invigorating type of cut and are the most effective pruning cut for maintaining woody plants in their natural form. Pruning, particularly heading cuts, stimulates regrowth very close to the pruning cut.
The 1/3 rule involves cutting about 1/3 of wood during any pruning activity. This moderate pruning practice is a balanced approach to thinning out shrubs to stimulate new growth. The plant loses a good amount of stems, usually on the top section, allowing more light and air to enter the inside of the plant.
Dead, diseased, damaged, or deranged – think this is not the description of a horror film character? Guess again! At TreePeople, and in the field of arboriculture, they are known as the 4 D's. It is the simple way to remember what to prune out of a tree to help ensure it is happy and healthy!
The cut is the key to good pruning. As a rule, always cut back to a branch, twig or bud that is pointed in the direction you want the tree to grow. This method encourages controlled, healthy new growth. If you're unsure whether to remove a branch, don't cut.
Tree pruning involves the removal of live branches, as well as dead, diseased, and damaged branches for the health of the tree, while tree trimming only involves the removal of branches that interfere in some way.
Branches that Double-cross or Grow Inward or Grow Downward:
Similarly, branches that grow inward toward the central stem or trunk are likely to end up chafing against other parts of the plant, so it's best to prune them.
Secateurs, loppers and a folding pruning saw will enable you to tackle a wide range of jobs. Other useful tools are handy for specific pruning jobs, such as shears for clipping hedges or topiary, and long-reach pruners for high branches in trees.
Plants are more brittle in cold temperatures. Messing around with them may cause branches to snap and split unintentionally. It's minor, but it could impact the look of a plant or create a haven for insects and diseases later. Don't prune when the temperature falls below 25°F.
According to Ramsey County Master Gardener Volunteers, February is the best time to prune your trees. In February, harmful tree diseases are at a minimum and deciduous trees have already “hardened off”, meaning they have prepared for winter dormancy.
As a general rule, a light summer pruning can be performed on most deciduous trees and shrubs. Heavier pruning should be performed when the tree is dormant, preferably in late winter before active growth begins.
An improper cut like a flush cut (cutting too close to the trunk) or a stub cut (cutting too far from the trunk) can cause irreversible damage to a tree. A flush cut removes the branch collar and leaves a large wound in the side of the tree that won't heal properly.
Topping: The reduction of a tree's size using cuts that shorten limbs or branches back to a predetermined crown limit, often leaving large stubs. Lion's Tailing: The removal of an excessive number of inner branches from the tree. Rooster-Tailing: The over-thinning of palms by removing too many lower fronds.
The hard pruning approach involves cutting the entire plant down to around 3 to 6 inches from the ground in very early spring before any foliage is emerging. This timing will minimize stress on the plant and direct energy into the growth of new stems.
Not every tree and plant needs a haircut, and many only need a quick trim. Fruit trees need pruning the most and even then they only need some touching up. If you notice some flowering shrubs taking over your landscaping feel free to give them some snips.
ALWAYS prune back to or just above a growing point (branch or bud) or to the soil line. NEVER leave a stem or branch stub. NEVER top a tree to “rejuvenate” growth.
Municipalities and homeowners often remove the lower limbs for pedestrian and vehicular clearance or to let the sun shine in for grass to grow. Mature trees, especially evergreens, benefit when healthy lower branches are left intact. Removing large limbs can increase the risk of decay.
The node is where leaves, buds and shoots emerge from the stem. You should always cut just above a node, as this prevents 'die back' and therefore disease. Also, by cutting above a node you can manipulate new stems, leaves or flowers to form in a desired direction, as nodes form on different sides of a stem.
The ISA guide to tree trimming (they use the term “pruning”) covers the basics of how to properly maintain mature trees.
Pruning sealers, also called pruning paint, are products that claim to “aid the healing of pruning cuts” or “minimize sap loss.” Most often, these products are petroleum-based, but some even contain asphalt. Alternatively, there are natural tree sealers with ingredients like collagen and aloe gel.
Cut too much and you'll risk nutritional deficiencies or branches that are too weak to tolerate the wind or fend off diseases or insect invasions. Over pruning and topping can permanently disfigure your trees, or even kill them. Further, a tree's foliage is important for protecting it against excessive sun exposure.