Floating Underlayment There is no fastening the underlayment to the subfloor. However, during installation some installers like to fasten underlayment to the subfloor to prevent the underlayment from moving. If your choose this route, staples are a good choice to fasten the underlayment.
Stick your underlay to your subfloor – use adhesive glue or staples to make sure that your underlay is firmly attached to your subfloor.
Use a good spray adhesive to stick the edges down and then go over with a staple gun to secure. If you're dealing with a concrete subfloor, use your adhesive instead. Once laid, tape up any joints using duct tape or similar to prevent the paper from moving or sliding out of place.
Default Use the proper underlay nails as they wont pull out like staples or ordinary nails will, so theres less likliehood of the nails popping up through your vinyl. They work well and don't destroy the floor.
Yes, you must put a staple or screw in every “X”. The minimum spacing requirement is every 4” on center in the body of the panel and every 2” along the panel perimeter to properly secure SurePly® panels to the subfloor.
You can fasten your plywood underlayment using one of the following: galvanized, coated chisel-point staples with a 1/4" maximum crown; galvanized, coated ring shank underlayment nails with a 3/16" diameter head; or flathead wood screws treated with a moisture-resistant coating (such as galvanized or zinc).
Fasten the underlayment with either staples or nails. Start on one corner of the panel and fasten the 8' edge first, spacing 2” along the entire edge. Make sure the fastener is around 1/2” from panel edge. Go back to the starting corner and repeat the process along the 4' edge.
If your choose this route, staples are a good choice to fasten the underlayment. Staples usually have a coating which help increase the holding power.
In the end, it's your decision if moisture protection and getting higher sound absorption is your goal. If not, then pre-attached underlayment will do it's job but at the minimum.
Staples Size 8mm pack of 5,000 to fit most Tacwise rapid staplers, commonly used to secure underlay to wood substrates.
Staple the underlay along the edges of the floor but inside the carpet gripper. Be careful not to leave any gaps between the underlay pieces, so it lies smooth underneath the carpet.
Each piece of underlay should be laid side by side, with the edges butting up against each other but without overlapping, as this can create an uneven surface for the laminate. Remember to tape the seams together with underlay tape to keep the pieces securely in place and prevent any moisture from seeping through.
19 gauge galvanized carpet staples for flooring and carpet underlayment.
Answer. If the underlayment is 1/4" or 3/8" the staples are 1 1/8" long and should extend at least 85% into the sub-floor, but not into the joists. These are chisel point narrow crown staples used with an 18 gauge air nailer. Otherwise use 1 1/4" ring nails.
Provided there is no rain or high winds, ProArmor® Underlayment can be anchored with staples, cap staples or corrosive resistant 3/8 inch head x 1 inch leg roofing nails (ring shank preferred, smooth leg acceptable), when covered with primary roofing on the same day.
Start in a corner and roll out your underlayment. Trim the roll so that two inches of the underlayment run up the wall. Move onto the next row and continue across the subfloor until the room is covered. You can use duct tape or seam tape to secure the edges and the sections where the underlayment connects.
Ring-shank and spiral-shank nails are the best fasteners for this application because they are grooved to increase friction and resist withdrawal. In fact, studies at Clemson University in South Carolina have shown that these nails have as much as twice the holding capacity of smooth-shank nails and staples.
Very often, particularly in a below-grade installation on a concrete basement floor, a vapor barrier is recommended in addition to the underlayment. That vapor barrier would go between the subfloor and the underlayment.
Other factors like type, sound ratings, and density matter just as much, if not more than the thickness. With that being said, most underlayments are 2-3mm thick, but are sometimes thicker for carpet or to smooth out an uneven subfloor.
It's important to ensure the underlay is rubber or foam-side down. Try to keep the underlay as straight (and bump-free!) as possible and secure in place – either by stapling inside the gripper or by using an effective adhesive. Each roll of underlay should be laid in the same way.
In some parts of the country, cap nails are required for underlayments. They do a superb job of reducing the amount of tearing that can occur if the underlayment is exposed to the wind before the roof is fully shingled. With staples or plain roofing nails, the heads can sometimes tear right through the underlayment.
Staple the perimeter of each piece every 3 inches then run rows of staples the width of the sheet every 10 inches spacing the staples every 4 inches. Don't need to be precise with the inch measurements but you'll get the idea when you get to stapling.
If there is no shiny surface, one side usually features a thin backing material secured by what looks like mesh. This should face up into the room, in contact with the carpet. The rubber or foam side should face down towards the subfloor.
Felt underlayment should overlap the edge metal at the eaves and be overlapped by edge metal on the rakes. This is also true for rubberized asphalt underlayment, but not necessarily true for synthetics. Asphalt-saturated felt may fail for a number of reasons.