When you tile the other side of the corner, the tiles should overlap, but make sure you leave a clearance gap between them (place a spacer). Next, use caulk to fill the corner gap, as a regular grout isn't flexible and would crack in a few months.
Press the tile against the wall with the cut side facing the corner and the other edge next to the last full tile in the course. Space the two tiles consistent with the rest of the tiles (generally 1/8 inch), which will leave a 1/4-inch space at the corner.
Finishing tile edges improves the appearance of a tile project while protecting exposed edges from cracks or moisture. Using caulk, trim tile pieces and edging are three of the most popular and effective ways to finish tile edges. Caulking is the cheapest and easiest method for finishing tile edges.
Most of the tiles will need to be cut to fit the perimeter of the room; starting in a corner allows you to begin the pattern with full tiles on a straight line and move evenly into the room. In this case, beginning in the center may make it more difficult to get the pattern moving evenly.
Both of these mistakes will lead to grout cracking out or tiles popping off the wall. Leave at least a 1/8-inch gap between any transition points of wall to wall, and caulk it with silicone or acrylic color-matching caulk. This will allow for seasonal movement of the home without buckling or damaging the installation.
Caulk all inside corners
As you learn how to grout tile, don't grout inside corners. Inside corners that are grouted will always crack over time. Choose a matching color caulk designed to coordinate with the grout you've used. It's sold in matching colors near the grout.
The line crossing at the room's center are the starting point of the tile. Lay a row of tiles along a straightedge more than halfway across the room. For consistent joints, use tile spacers. This row determines the size of cut tiles along the walls.
It's always advisable to start tiling your grid in the centre of the wall, as it's easier to make sure your pattern is symmetrical. It also means any half-tiles you may need can go at the end of each row and will be of matching size.
Hence once you're done tiling, it's better to trim the edges of your tiles. This gives a much smoother finish and looks great. Moreover, to enhance the look of your tiles, you can put carpet over it. This won't damage your tile but will surely make the room feel homely.
Yes, these are "handmade" tiles. Mass produced, but handmade effect. You could grind back the face of the edges, cut the trim and glue the trim face to the tile edge, but the end finish will be just as unsightly as what you have now. They are ceramic and fairly soft really but would be very time consuming!
Here's how you do it: Install the first four tiles in a pyramid: three on the bottom and one on top. Every subsequent row is a process of draping over the pyramid, back and forth. Begin your first drape on either the right or left side, and bring it up, over, and down the other side.
The wall tiles should overlap the floor. And, that can't happen if the wall tiles are already installed. At least, not without some careful planning first. However, professional tilers will disagree with this.
If you don't have a specific design on tile, you start from bottom. If you have a design … than you can start anywhere you want to, depends on the design. That would depend on the individual, I find it better to measure out the tile using the specific spacer then build from the bottom up.
To check a row of tile, line up the laser with a grout joint and point it straight across the room. Have an assistant hold the laser while you check from one end to the next. The grout joint and edge of the tiles should match the laser right to the end; if they don't, the tile is not straight.
Once level and the mortar has dried, start laying the tiles. Place the spirit level flush against each tile when applying it and with the help of a mallet, push each tile in until it is level. Once you're done with that, use a leveling kit. The kit comprises of two parts.
Choose the Tile Direction Well
Its direction is similar to a brick wall, where the longer side is across the surface. This creates a more pleasant layout and makes the room look wider. For a much smaller space, such as the bathroom, it's best to lay down the tiles the long way, where the longer side is set vertically.
It's essential to use caulk, not grout, in shower corners. Grout does not hold up well in corners and is prone to cracking and falling out. This is because the tiles on the two perpendicular walls expand and contract with temperature changes.
It is important to wait until the grout has set in before wiping the tiles clean, as premature wiping can result in gouges. However, don't wait too long, or the grout will dry onto the tiles, potentially causing irreversible damage.
Always tile the back wall first in a shower/tub so that you can hide the grout joints on the sides.
Back buttering is a common solution to tiling uneven walls and floors, or using tiles of varying thicknesses. It simply involves applying mortar as normal to the substrate, but then also applying mortar to the back of the tiles.
As long as your wall is smooth and flat, you can install a ceramic tile kitchen backsplash directly over drywall or plaster with no problem. Start by cleaning the wall to remove any grease, then apply thin-set adhesive, and set the tile. After the adhesive has set, apply grout, and you're done.
If you want to install the edging on an outside wall corner, you have to tile first one side. Next, you should spread tile adhesive on the other side of the corner with a notched trowel. Last but not least, you have to press the perforated flange of tile edging into the adhesive and align it with the wall tiles.
As to fitting flush it depends on the tile, I prefer to finish flush if the tile is smooth, but if it's a rough tile, I finish to the highest point. I always use metal trims, so sharp edges are a no-no.