You should nail your shiplap. Nailing is the industry standard for interior walls because it secures the boards directly to the studs for a permanent hold. It also makes removing or repairing the wall much easier.
After the board is level, you can go ahead and attach it to the studs. We always recommend face nailing shiplap when installing it on your walls, ceiling, and as exterior siding.
Broadly speaking, basic white shiplap is no longer the height of fashion, with designers shifting toward smoother, "old-world" finishes like limewash and textured plaster. However, shiplap can still feel stylish if used intentionally in smaller doses or updated with modern styling.
The best way to install shiplap is to start from the bottom, ensure your first board is perfectly level, and work your way up. Secure the boards using a combination of construction adhesive and 18-gauge finish nails driven directly into your wall studs.
To achieve a flawless shiplap installation, avoid common missteps like skipping the The Spruce step of calculating your layout to prevent thin slivers at the top or bottom, failing to check for levelness, and nailing too close to edges without using studs.
Common Mistakes to Avoid When Installing Shiplap Cladding
You'll still find the charm and detail of shiplap panels, but with options like tongue and groove wood wall planks, fluted paneling, and limewashed walls, there's a lot more to explore.
The best overall adhesive for shiplap is a high-quality, heavy-duty interior construction adhesive. It secures the boards firmly against drywall, minimizes the need for visible nails, and holds the planks in place while you fasten them.
A big complaint from those with shiplap in their homes is that it is a magnet for dust. Dust will settle in the gaps and grooves and can make the space look dirty. 2. If not installed correctly, shiplap can warp or rot.
You can install shiplap from either direction, but starting at the bottom and working up is generally recommended. It allows gravity to help hold the boards in place and makes it easier to keep the installation flush with your floors or baseboards.
A home typically looks outdated when it features overdone, time-stamped trends from specific past decades, such as honey oak cabinetry, popcorn ceilings, or generic word art. Outdated homes also often suffer from poor lighting, worn-out flooring, and heavy window treatments that block natural light.
So, what exactly is shiplap? It's rough sawn pine wood boards, often used in barns or historic homes for insulation. Others argue that it's used on old house exteriors for framing, just beneath the siding or in the construction of barns, sheds, and outbuildings.
In 2026, the dominant wood style embraces organic warmth, moving away from cool greys and uniform finishes in favor of natural textures and earthy character.
Use an 18-gauge brad nailer for shiplap. Brad nails are thinner and leave smaller, less noticeable holes. Because true shiplap self-spaces and is largely held by the tongue/groove or overlapping flanges, a brad nailer easily secures the boards without the risk of splitting the wood.
Installing shiplap without visible nails showing is entirely achievable by using specialized blind-nailing techniques, hidden clips, or even heavy-duty construction adhesive.
Modern shiplap typically has a gap between the boards, usually about 18one-eighth18 of an inch wide. This gap is often called a "nickel gap" because the space is perfectly sized to fit a nickel.
When using traditional shiplap, look to soft white hues for balance. We like Cloud White 967, shown here, White Dove OC-17 or Swiss Coffee OC-45. Add a fun graphic rug or woven accents to nod to the seafaring beginnings of shiplap design.
Yes, you can absolutely put shiplap over drywall. It is a very common method for DIY projects as it saves time and prevents you from having to tear down existing walls or re-insulate.
Neither looks "better" overall; rather, the best choice depends on the height of your ceiling and your design style.
Does shiplap need to be nailed into studs? For traditional wood shiplap with nails or screws, yes—fasteners should hit studs for a secure hold. Drywall alone can't support the pull-out force over time. Peel-and-stick shiplap doesn't require stud finding at all—the adhesive distributes across the full board surface.
If you love the texture of shiplap but want to explore different styles, budget options, or easier installations, several alternatives can upgrade your space.
Yes, you can nail through the tongue of shiplap or tongue-and-groove boards at a 45-degree angle (called blind nailing or toe-nailing). This hides the nail heads for a seamless finish. However, to secure the board firmly and prevent the bottom edge from bowing, you should also face-nail the top overlapping edge.
Broadly speaking, basic white shiplap is no longer the height of fashion, with designers shifting toward smoother, "old-world" finishes like limewash and textured plaster. However, shiplap can still feel stylish if used intentionally in smaller doses or updated with modern styling.
The 3-5-7 rule is a design principle that dictates grouping decorative objects, furniture, or art in odd numbers (specifically 3, 5, or 7). It breaks rigid, perfectly symmetrical pairings to create natural, eye-catching visual movement.
Drywall is significantly cheaper than shiplap in material costs. Drywall panels range from $0.30 to $0.60 per square foot, whereas real wood shiplap starts at $2.00 to $7.00 per square foot. However, the total cost depends on your project goals, as the complex finishing process for drywall often requires expensive professional labor.