Use faced insulation if you are starting fresh and installing a new layer in an uninsulated attic. Use unfaced insulation if you are adding new layers over existing insulation, or if your climate relies heavily on air conditioning.
In an attic, the paper or foil facing (vapor barrier) should always face downward against the warm ceiling of the living space. The pink or yellow fiberglass should be visible when you are standing in the attic, and the paper side should be touching the drywall/ceiling below.
The higher the R-Value, the better the thermal performance of the insulation. The recommended level for most attics is to insulate to R-38 or about 10 to 14 inches, depending on insulation type.
Yes, you can mix faced and unfaced insulation, but only one vapor barrier should be used. Place the faced layer toward the heated side of the space. Never stack two faced layers, as trapped moisture can lead to mold or damage.
Faced insulation has a vapor retarder to help control moisture, making it ideal for exterior walls and attic ceilings. Unfaced insulation is a more versatile option often used in interior walls and between floors where moisture control isn't as critical.
Choose unfaced insulation for the majority of attic projects. Use faced only when adding a single, new layer directly against ceiling drywall or in new construction without existing insulation.
Mice are curious and always searching for safe, snug, and warm nesting sites. Attics filled with blown-in insulation provide an excellent option–from the mice's point of view. As long as there is a ready food source. Mice are omnivorous and will eat and chew on almost anything including wood and electrical wires.
Yes, you should install attic baffles (or rafter vents) in every rafter bay that has a soffit (intake) vent. Baffles maintain a clear air channel between the insulation and the roof decking, preventing blocked vents and allowing fresh air to flow from the soffit up to the roof/ridge vent.
Insulating a 2,000 sq. ft. attic costs between $2,000 and $9,000, with most homeowners paying around $3,600 to $5,800 for professional installation. The wide price range depends on the type of insulation, labor rates, and whether old insulation requires removal.
No. Kraft-faced insulation / fiberglass batts, you have a built in vapor barrier.
Yes, R-30 is a good and highly effective insulation rating for many attics. However, its adequacy depends heavily on your local climate.
Faced or unfaced insulation in basement walls is a common question we get. Use faced insulation in basement walls when insulating between studs, with the facing toward the interior. However, if you're adding insulation over existing insulation, choose unfaced to avoid creating a double vapor barrier.
Yes, R-30 and R-38 make a measurable difference in thermal resistance, but the impact on your comfort and energy bills depends on your climate.
Batt Insulation:
Also, when laying down additional insulation, work from the perimeter toward the attic opening. Never lay insulation over recessed light fixtures or soffit vents. Keep all insulation at least 3 inches away from recessed "can" lights, unless they are rated IC (Insulated Ceiling).
The 7 and 7 rule for attic conversions refers to the common requirement that finished attics be at least 7 feet wide and 70 square feet, with 7-foot ceilings over at least half. Keep in mind that this is a general guideline. Local building codes may have stricter requirements that supersede this rule.
What time of year is Insulation cheapest?
Fall is an ideal time for insulation.
Adding insulation before winter can help reduce heating bills significantly. Spring is another excellent option for installation. It provides an opportunity to prepare your home for summer's heat. Insulating in spring can keep your home cooler and reduce air conditioning costs.
For most attics, blown insulation is better than rolled insulation. Blown-in is ideal for older homes or attics with irregular framing, as the machine-blown material conforms tightly around pipes, wires, and joists. Rolled insulation is better for brand-new, empty attics with no obstructions.
Covers All Major Insulation Types – Whether you're adding insulation to your attic, walls, basement, or crawl space, you can qualify as long as the materials meet efficiency standards.
Attic fans have fallen out of favor because they often do more harm than good. They create a "negative pressure" zone that can suck conditioned, expensive air out of your living space and pull dirty air, moisture, and allergens into your home. Additionally, they consume excess electricity and require regular maintenance.
While you can physically touch fiberglass insulation with bare hands, you should never do it intentionally. Fiberglass is made of spun glass fibers that break off easily. Touching them causes microscopic glass shards to embed themselves in your skin, leading to severe, irritating itching, and sometimes a rash.
Signs of poor attic ventilation include trapped excessive heat, condensation buildup, and accelerated wear on your roof. Left unchecked, this can lead to expensive roof repairs, skyrocketing energy bills, and structural damage.
The Amish rely on natural, low-tech, and self-sufficient methods to manage mice. Because they generally avoid chemical poisons, they focus on three core pillars: prevention, natural deterrents, and mechanical traps.
Because spray foam can trap moisture, hide the condition of the roof, make it difficult for surveyors to inspect, which means risks like timber decay, dry rot, and not forgetting increased fire risk. If you've got it or you're buying a property that does, this is something you need to know upfront.
In most cases, mice are nocturnal, which means they usually remain in their nest during the day. A mouse can venture out at night to search for food. If a mouse has been disturbed and feels uncertain or threatened, it may move out of the attic during the day.