It's common to think that everything should be chopped down to the ground in the fall, but some perennials actually need their foliage to protect new shoots through the winter. Other varieties offer up important habitat for local wildlife and some perennials provide height and interest through the winter months.
Also, do not cut back hardy perennials like garden mums (Chrysanthemum spp.), anise hyssop (Agastache foeniculum), red-hot poker (Kniphofia uvaria), and Montauk daisy (Nipponanthemum nipponicum). Leave the foliage. It's important to protect the root crowns over winter.
When you're ready to trim, remember the rule of thumb for how far to cut back perennials. At a slight angle, trim the plant nearly all the way down to the ground, leaving about a 1-to 2-inch stub above ground. Spray your pruners with alcohol or Lysol in between cuts to sterilize them.
It's important to cut back foliage in the fall to protect flowering plants from disease and give them a clean start for regrowth as winter starts to turn into spring. However, there are some plants you can keep around through the winter since they benefit wildlife and still offer visual interest for your home.
It's common to think that everything should be chopped down to the ground in the fall, but some perennials actually need their foliage to protect new shoots through the winter. Other varieties offer up important habitat for local wildlife and some perennials provide height and interest through the winter months.
Don't shear the branches of spring flowering shrubs (Forsythia, Lilac, New Mexico Privet, Spirea, Flowering Quince, and others). These shrubs produce flowers on last year's wood, so removing old growth will reduce or prevent flowering. These plants should be pruned immediately after they are done blooming.
Any gardening expert will tell you, (contrary to what you may believe) that pruning encourages new growth just when the plant is trying to go dormant and new growth doesn't have enough time to harden before the first frost and freezing temperatures hit. Pruning at this time of year will severely weaken the plants.
Many gardeners cut back their perennials much too soon. There are nuances specific to certain perennials that dictate whether it is better to cut them back in fall or spring, but the general rule I like to follow is to only cut back perennials that start looking bad in fall.
Daylilies are best cut back in autumn, once the leaves have had a full growing season on the plant. While there are some evergreen types of daylilies, most are herbaceous, meaning that the leaves die back in the wintertime and sprout anew in the early spring.
Transplant perennials when the weather is cool, even a little rainy, if possible. Early spring and fall care are best times for transplanting. Then the weather is cooler and the plants are not using as much water. “However, don't move or transplant perennials while they are in bloom,” he says.
Divide fall blooming perennials in the spring because
New growth is emerging and it is easier to see what you are doing. Smaller leaves and shoots will not suffer as much damage as full-grown leaves and stems. Plants have stored up energy in their roots that will aid in their recovery.
As a general rule, prune spring-blooming trees immediately after they flower. Prune trees that bloom in the summer or fall in late winter or early spring before the end of their dormancy. Routine pruning of dead or dying branches can be done at any time.
If you want to prune in fall, wait until trees drop their leaves and are dormant—usually October or November. After leaf drop, you can see the tree's structure and identify disease and insect problems more easily.
The rule on fall pruning is, generally speaking, don't prune in fall. But there are a few trimming tasks you can take on with confidence, provided you approach the job with self-control and a plan. The timing window for these pruning chores is from Thanksgiving to the New Year.
Don't prune too late in northern regions.
In areas with cold winters, avoid pruning after the middle of August. If you prune too late, you may stimulate new growth that would not have time to grow thick, protective bark before the killing frosts of winter.
Shrubs prone to ice damage like wax myrtle and butterfly bush might be reduced in late fall or early winter to avoid breakage. Light thinning or shaping can be done almost any time, including fall, on shrubs that have developed uneven growth since their last shaping.
What I do prune in late fall: Any perennials that have gone completely dormant and will have mushy foliage if I leave it through winter like hosta, tall garden phlox, brunnera, lilies, bleeding hearts, daylilies, Ligularia, catmint, bee balm, peonies and salvia.
2. Perennials and shrubs that are in your zone or one colder can be overwintered in an unheated garage, buried in the ground, or transplanted. 3. Perennials and shrubs in containers will need water through the winter but should not be kept wet.
Cutting back of dead or dying top growth is the only maintenance that is needed for winter preparation. Cut the stems down to the ground, or to the basal growth if you are gardening in the warmer hardiness zones. Alternatively, the flower stems can be left to cut back in the spring.
Start the winterizing process by mulching around landscape plants. Mulch helps insulate soil and prevent frost heave, a condition that occurs when soil repeatedly freezes and thaws—and pushes plants out of soil. When frost heave occurs, plant crowns and roots are exposed to freezing air and drying winds.