Many well pumps do not have a dedicated, physical "reset" button. Instead, you can reset your system by flipping the main circuit breaker off for one minute and then back on, or by manually engaging the reset lever on the low-pressure cut-off switch located next to your pressure tank.
Resetting a well pump involves restarting the power or manually resetting the pressure switch. Locate the pump's circuit breaker and flip it off, wait 60 seconds, and turn it back on. Then, hold the pressure switch's lever to "Start" until the system builds enough pressure to stay running.
If your well pump stops working, immediately check your electrical panel for a tripped breaker. Listen for pump operation at the wellhead and check your pressure gauge. About 60% of pump failures are electrical issues or clogged pressure switches, not dead pumps.
To reset a well pump pressure switch without a lever, you will need to manually force the electrical contacts closed until the pump builds enough pressure to hold them on its own.
A bad well pump pressure switch typically causes no water, low pressure, or rapid, constant clicking (short cycling) of the pump. Key indicators include burnt or corroded contact points inside the switch housing, the pump failing to turn on when pressure is low, or the pump failing to turn off.
To prime a well pump that has been sitting, turn off the power, remove the priming plug on top of the pump housing, and completely fill the pump and suction line with clean water. Replace the plug, restore power, and let the pump run until it builds consistent pressure.
If the well switch malfunctions, it could cause the pump to shut off early, then restart as water pressure decreases. This constant cycling wastes energy and strains the pump, possibly shortening its lifespan. If left unaddressed, this problem can also contribute to water pressure tank problems.
Testing a well pump without pulling it involves isolating whether the issue is electrical or mechanical. First, check for tripped breakers and verify the system is receiving the correct voltage at the pressure switch. Next, test the wire resistance with a multimeter and check the amperage using a clamp meter.
Hold the reset lever in the start position until the pressure builds up and the gauge reads over 40 PSI; then let it return to the AUTO position. The pump should now run on its own and continue until the pressure reaches the cut out setting, (usually between 50 - 60 PSI), and then shut off.
Common well water pump problems typically revolve around pressure, electrical faults, or physical wear and tear. Key warning signs include sputtering faucets, unusually high electric bills, cloudy water, or the pump clicking on and off rapidly (short cycling).
A well pressure switch typically lasts 10 to 15 years. However, its lifespan can be significantly shortened by electrical surges, poor water quality (sediment or mineral buildup), or a failing pressure tank that causes the switch to click on and off too rapidly.
Clogged pipes or a clogged well screen can also restrict flow as minerals and sediment build up. The pressure tank or pressure switch could also be the culprit. If the switch is faulty or its settings are wrong, the pump won't build enough pressure. A healthy system's pressure should be between 40-60 PSI.
When your well pump won't turn on, start by checking the power source. Verify that the well's dedicated circuit breaker hasn't tripped and that any secondary safety switch near your pressure tank is turned on. If the breaker continues to trip, it usually indicates a serious electrical fault or a failed motor.
A 2-gallon-per-minute (GPM) well is considered low-yield. While it falls short of the recommended 5 to 10 GPM for standard households, it can still fully support a home if you manage water usage carefully or install a supplemental storage (cistern) system.
Replacing a pressure switch on a well pump costs between $120 and $200 on average, including both parts and professional labor. If you choose to do it yourself, the part itself typically runs between $20 and $50.
Knowing how many years should a well pump last is important because it can be a signal that it's time for a new piece of equipment. With proper well maintenance, your new well pump can last, on average, 8 to 15 years, though many homeowners report their pumps lasting far longer, often between 20 and 30 years!
To reset a well pump, cycle the circuit breaker or use the manual lever on your pressure switch. If your system has a low-water cutoff or a pump control box with a fault light, it requires holding the lever up until the pressure builds or waiting for it to auto-reset.
Signs of a faulty well pump
Fluctuations in water pressure. Constantly running pump. Sputtering water flow in home. Sediment in water lines.
Symptoms of a bad well pressure switch include the pump constantly running (or failing to turn on), rapid clicking or "short cycling", fluctuating or suddenly low water pressure, or no water delivery at all. You may also notice visible signs like burned electrical contacts or a clogged pipe nipple.
For a single level home or a two-story home without water fixtures on the 2nd floor a 30/50 PSI setting may be sufficient. For two or more levels with water fixtures on more than one level you may want to use 40/60 PSI setting. It's easier for a pump to supply the lower pressures and it's less strain on old plumbing.
To reset a pressure switch without a lever, you must manually engage the electrical contacts. Because this involves live 120V or 240V electricity, always turn off the power at the breaker first before removing the cover to prevent shock.
A well pump loses its prime when air enters the suction side or water drains back into the well, breaking the necessary vacuum. The most common causes are faulty foot valves, air leaks in the intake pipe, or a low water table, often resulting in air-filled pipes, rapid cycling, and, if not addressed, a burnt-out pump motor.
Open a hose spigot or the sample tap to drain the tank. Apply a small amount of psi with an air compressor to the snifter valve to completely evacuate the pressure tank of all water. Turn off the hose spigot/sample tap and add the proper amount of air into the tank Your system has now been re-pressurized.
To determine if your water pump is circulating coolant, safely remove the radiator cap when the engine is completely cold. Start the engine and wait for it to warm up. Once the thermostat opens, you should see the coolant actively flowing past the radiator cap opening.