Whether it’s better to insulate your ceiling (attic floor) or the roof deck depends on how you use your attic. Generally, insulating the ceiling is more cost-effective for unused attics, while insulating the roof deck is best if you want to use the space or have HVAC equipment in the attic.
Attic. Arguably the most important space in the home to insulate is the attic. This is primarily because heat naturally rises, which means that the attic will hold a lot of the heat generated in the home. During the winter, having that heat escape through the attic will push up energy bills.
Ceilings and roofs
Between 25 and 35 per cent of heat loss or gain occurs through the ceiling. Adding ceiling insulation will make a huge difference to the comfort of the home, helping to keep it warm in winter and cool in summer.
The healthiest, non-toxic insulation for your home is natural sheep's wool or hemp insulation. These materials contain no chemical binders or formaldehyde, actively regulate indoor humidity to prevent mold, and do not off-gas.
Closed cell spray foam is rigid once set. It is a better thermal insulator and was previously sold to stabilise failing roofs. But if it has been used inappropriately or installed poorly, it might put stress on timbers, restrict air circulation and put them at risk of decaying.
The Environmental Protection Agency banned spray-on asbestos insulation in 1973, certain types of pipe and block insulation in 1975 and new asbestos insulation products in 1989. In 2024, the EPA banned most uses of chrysotile asbestos products, including imports.
Mice are curious and always searching for safe, snug, and warm nesting sites. Attics filled with blown-in insulation provide an excellent option–from the mice's point of view. As long as there is a ready food source. Mice are omnivorous and will eat and chew on almost anything including wood and electrical wires.
What time of year is Insulation cheapest?
It takes time for your home to warm up and cool down. If you're not sure how long it takes, try turning the heating on about 30 minutes before you need it. You should turn it off 30 minutes before you'll stop needing it.
Because spray foam can trap moisture, hide the condition of the roof, make it difficult for surveyors to inspect, which means risks like timber decay, dry rot, and not forgetting increased fire risk. If you've got it or you're buying a property that does, this is something you need to know upfront.
Foam insulation is a common target because it's easy for them to chew through. The material offers little resistance, allowing mice to create tunnels or nests within the insulation. But mice aren't just interested in chewing for the sake of it—they're also drawn to the warmth and shelter insulation provides.
Therefore, the Energy Saving Trust advises that insulation should not be installed where it is likely to block existing ventilation points, such as eaves or soffit vents, as this can lead to loft condensation and damp issues.
Choosing the best time to insulate your home largely depends on your circumstances and needs. However, it's generally recommended to install insulation during the spring or early summer months. This timing allows you to prepare your home for the extreme temperature swings of summer and winter.
Blown-In Insulation: Costs about $1.00 to $2.80 per square foot, making it slightly more expensive than rolled insulation. However, blown-in insulation is better suited for filling irregular or hard-to-reach spaces, such as existing walls or tight attic corners.
Yes, insulation is tax-deductible in the form of a federal tax credit, specifically the Energy Efficient Home Improvement Credit (Section 25C). You can claim 30% of the cost of insulation and air sealing materials, up to a maximum annual credit of $𝟏,𝟐𝟎𝟎.
When balancing upfront cost and overall thermal efficiency, the cheapest and most effective standard insulation is fiberglass batt insulation. However, if you are looking for long-term savings through superior air sealing, dense-pack cellulose often provides the best overall value.
Home insulation doesn't have an “expiration date,” and the material doesn't “go bad” after a certain number of years have passed. Ultimately, the condition of the insulation and its performance are more important factors than age when deciding whether to upgrade or replace insulation.
The largest source of heat loss in a typical house is uncontrolled air leakage (drafts), accounting for up to 38% of lost heat. Warm air escapes through hidden cracks and gaps, while the following structural areas are the primary culprits for escaping warmth:
The Amish control mice through non-chemical, self-sustaining methods, relying on active trapping, natural scent repellents, and structural exclusion. Rather than using commercial poisons, they focus on physical barriers and natural predators to keep rodent populations in check.
Potential problems with spray foam insulation
reduce air circulation and ventilation within a roof space. lead to dampness and condensation on the underside of a roof because it forms an air barrier and stops moisture from escaping. place timber-framed roofs at risk of decay.
Closed-cell spray foam and rigid foam board are hard, unattractive to rodents, and double as air barriers. Mineral wool is dense enough to discourage nesting. Fiberglass batts, especially in crawl spaces and attics, are essentially an open invitation.
Homes built before the mid-20th century were not built with the same techniques that we use today. These older homes were largely built without insulation and just open cavities in the walls where the house could breathe.
The healthiest, non-toxic insulation for your home is natural sheep's wool or hemp insulation. These materials contain no chemical binders or formaldehyde, actively regulate indoor humidity to prevent mold, and do not off-gas.