Staining over stain is easy and works beautifully if you're applying a dark stain over a lighter stain on the wood. Remember, it's the same principle as dying your hair! This rule applies to oil-based stains, water-based stains, and gel stains.
Using most gel stains, you can darken wood furniture, or stay the same color, without sanding off the old stain. But, I usually use General Finishes Gel Stain because the finish always looks beautiful. Don't forget to Save or Share these steps for how to stain wood without sanding.
Yes, you may apply stain over an already existing stain on the wood. This process is a fairly easy one as long as all the tools are available. The good thing about a staining project is that you have control over the resulting wood tones. It is easier to apply a darker wood stain than a lighter one.
Removal is Not Always Necessary
In some cases, you can get away with leaving the previous coat as it is, as long as you perform the other necessary preparation steps, such as sanding and power washing.
PolyShades® will work over stained wood (meaning it does not have a clear protective finish) or wood top-coated with a polyurethane-based finish. Proper surface preparation is necessary to ensure adhesion, so make sure you follow preparation tips provided in this Guide.
The new stain you are applying over the old stain should be compatible. For instance, if it's an oil-based stain, apply another oil-based stain. If it's a water-based stain, apply another water-based stain. Incompatible stains can lead to poor adhesion or blotchy and uneven finish.
Can I stain on top of old stain? Yes! In fact, applying stain over stain is a fairly simple process. It works especially well if you're applying a dark stain over a lighter stain.
If a second coat is applied, it builds the thickness and two things happen. First, the sealer or top coat cannot penetrate through the stain to grab the wood fiber. This causes the second issue, the bond now relies on the strength of the stain to bond the surface coats to the wood.
When preparing wood for stain, you'll need to sand its surface. Use a sanding sponge or orbital sander. Sandpaper with a lower grit number will make wood rougher, allowing more stain to absorb and creating a darker color. Start with 120-grit sandpaper for pieces that already have a finish.
With a staining brush, work both with the grain and against it. Don't worry about being neat; all that matters is getting a nice, even, liberal coat over the wood. Wipe the stain off immediately if you'd like a lighter tone. But for a deeper tone, leave the stain on the wood for 5 to 10 minutes before wiping it off.
Apply a second coat of stain after the first has dried fully. This will usually produce a slightly darker coloring with the excess wiped off. Substitute a glaze or gel stain for the liquid stain. Glazes and gel stains usually contain a higher ratio of pigment to vehicle.
We always recommend two coats of stain for any wood project, but you should only apply as much stain as the wood can absorb. Extremely dense hardwoods may only be able to absorb one coat of wood stain. The general rule of thumb is to apply only as much deck stain as the wood can absorb.
No, the sticky stains will not dry after some time, which is why it is important to wipe off the excess wood stain. If you don't, your work will end up sticky because the stain did not dry properly. You will have to use mineral spirits, more stain, or sandpaper to fix the mess.
If your deck is in good condition and you're looking to apply a maintenance coat to keep your deck looking new, then yes… you can stain over a stained deck. It's the same if the surface of your boards are starting to look really worn and faded. Applying more stain won't hide the damage.
If you try to apply a light color of stain over the top of an existing dark finish, you won't notice much difference. To completely alter the color of the finish, strip down the existing stain using a petroleum-based solvent. Once you've lightened the wood, you may add a lighter color of stain.
Apply the gel stain over the existing stained wood using a chip or sponge brush. Work in small areas as you do not want the stain to start to dry. Wipe away a small area with a clean cloth to test if the stain is dark enough.
Sand the Surface
Let the wood dry for 24 hours. Then, sand the surface with 100- to 150-grit sandpaper. Use a sanding block or an orbital sander. Apply only enough pressure to take off any residue and rough areas.
Prime the Surface
Additionally: Primer can save paint by ensuring that the first coat isn't absorbed into the wood. Primer can create a strong bonding layer between a stain of one type and a surface paint of another.
Rule #3: Only add a second layer of stain if you need it
You do not need to add a second layer. You should reserve adding a second layer only if you want a darker color for the stain. However, many times, the first layer of stain will suffice for both adequate protection and the desired color.
Both stains are available in most colors, but they vary the most in texture. Gel stains are thicker and spread easily across less porous surfaces. Liquid stains work well on porous materials like wood, but they don't absorb well into painted or metal surfaces. The gel does less to bring out the wood's natural grain.
Two coats are generally better than one
If the deck has been properly cleaned, it should absorb the first of stain well in to the wood. By applying a second, light coat of material, you will fill up the cell structure of the wood (kind of like topping off the tank) and the project will last longer.