Fitting insulation board to walls involves either directly adhering the boards using foam-compatible adhesive ("dot and dab" or direct bond) or securing them mechanically to timber battens or metal studs. Proper cutting, sealing seams with foil tape, and preventing moisture buildup are critical for maximum thermal efficiency.
To glue insulation board, use a foam-compatible construction adhesive (like Loctite PL 300) or a polyurethane foam adhesive. Standard glues and heavy-duty adhesives contain solvents that will melt or degrade the foam. Always check the product label to ensure it specifies "foamboard safe".
The two main methods of installing insulation sheets for walls is with adhesive bonding (also known as the dot and dab method) and with mechanical fixings. It's ultimately up to you to decide which method to use depending on what types of walls you have.
Compatible with all other foamboard insulation products, Loctite PL 300 is a latex-based adhesive especially designed for bonding polystyrene foam to itself or to a variety of construction materials, including, but not limited to: wood, gypsum board, concrete and brick without compromising the insulation value of the ...
For medium-duty applications (insulation panels, lightweight shelving), Liquid Nails Fuze*It offers excellent holding power. For heavy-duty applications, I recommend combining adhesive with mechanical fasteners.
The best adhesive for insulation board depends on the type of foam and the application. For standard rigid foam boards (polystyrene or XPS), a foam-safe, low-VOC latex adhesive like Loctite PL 300 Foamboard Adhesive is ideal because it won't melt the foam. For quick, large-coverage applications, a polyurethane spray or aerosol glue is also highly effective.
Liquid Nails is generally stronger and vastly more reliable for structural, heavy-duty bonds than traditional original Gorilla Glue. The two serve completely different purposes, and comparing them depends entirely on your specific project needs.
Gorilla Spray Adhesive is a multi-purpose product that will bond a wide variety of surfaces including fabric, paper, wood, plastic*, cardboard, foam, metal and more!
To stick foam board to a wall, use specialized foam-compatible construction adhesive (like Loctite PL 300 or DAP Foamboard Adhesive) applied with a caulking gun for a permanent bond. For temporary or lighter applications, use double-sided adhesive strips, Velcro, or 3M Command Strips.
The best glue for foam board depends on your project, but the safest and most reliable choices are specialized foam adhesives or specific spray adhesives. Crucially, many standard glues contain solvents (like acetone) that will melt and destroy polystyrene foam.
Because spray foam can trap moisture, hide the condition of the roof, make it difficult for surveyors to inspect, which means risks like timber decay, dry rot, and not forgetting increased fire risk. If you've got it or you're buying a property that does, this is something you need to know upfront.
In summary, whether you're using insulation boards or foil insulation, it's important to leave an air gap to improve the effectiveness of the insulation and prevent moisture buildup.
For insulation boards, the best tape to use is foil tape or specialized acrylic seam tape. These tapes ensure a continuous, airtight barrier, prevent vapor and moisture movement, and save on energy bills.
When used according to 3M instructions, 3M™ Insulation & Polystyrene 78 Spray Adhesive avoids dissolving and degrading polystyrene foam, making it an excellent choice for tasks such as foundation insulation, polystyrene block assembly, and attaching foam to wood and other substrates.
PVA Glue (White Glue) and Craft Glue
PVA is the same type of adhesive used as wood glue or school glue. It's water-based, so it won't dissolve foam. In fact, PVA is often recommended as an adhesive for foam when you want a non-toxic option for children.
For gluing rigid insulation board (like EPS, XPS, or polyiso), you must use foam-safe adhesives. Standard solvent-based glues (like regular Liquid Nails or contact cement) contain harsh chemicals that will melt, etch, and destroy the foam boards.
Gorilla Glue will not stick to low-surface-energy plastics like polyethylene (PE) and polypropylene (PP), as well as materials with high oil or plasticizer content, such as certain rubbers, silicone, and Teflon. It also does not adhere well to, or may be ruined by, wet, icy, or extremely hot surfaces, including ice, snow, or live, oily plants.
Spray adhesive can be either permanent or temporary depending on the specific product and how it is applied.
Yes, but you must use a specific formula. Traditional, solvent-based Liquid Nails will dissolve or melt foam board. To bond foam safely, use Liquid Nails Projects & Foamboard Adhesive (LN-604), which features a latex-based, foam-friendly formula.
To hold foam board in place, use specialized foam-safe construction adhesive (e.g., Loctite PL 300 or DAP Dynagrip) for permanent installations, or mechanical fasteners like wide-crown foam board staples for insulation, and foam-safe tape or T-pins for temporary, lightweight projects.
It's important that the right fasteners are used to ensure that the insulation is secure and is being attached with thermal-efficiency in mind. SPAX® Fasteners along with the Plasti-Grip® ci prong washers help you achieve both of these when attaching rigid insulation.
While Gorilla Glue is highly versatile, two-part epoxies and industrial-grade polyurethane construction adhesives consistently form stronger, more rigid, and more permanent bonds. The best alternative depends on your materials, as epoxies outshine standard polyurethane for metals and plastics, while premium construction adhesives excel for heavy-duty building materials.
The strongest construction adhesives available are Loctite PL Premium MAX and Loctite PL Premium Fast Grab. Both are 100% solid polyurethane-based adhesives that cure to be 3x to 8x stronger than traditional adhesives. They provide a durable, waterproof bond across wood, concrete, stone, foam board, and metal, often causing the substrate itself to fail before the glue joint.
Gorilla Glue (specifically its original polyurethane formula) can expand uncontrollably, create messy foam, and cause weak "gap-filling" bonds. It is also difficult to clean, incompatible with certain plastics, and requires a careful moisture-activation step to work properly.