When establishing a starting line, knowing where you want to close out the floor helps you get there neatly. If the room is reasonably square already (the walls measure parallel), snap a line parallel to the closing wall and simply transfer that line back to the starting wall and begin the installation.
Snap a chalk line down the middle, measure from that line to within a few inches of the starting wall, and snap a second line parallel to the first. Align your first piece with the second line. Then every couple of rows, measure to make sure you are still parallel with the first chalk line.
Measure from the center to the starting wall using a tape measure, subtracting 5/16-inch to accommodate expansion, and mark this distance at each end of the wall. Snap a chalk line between these two marks to get a straight line against the wall.
Don't start directly against the wall.
Most walls aren't perfectly straight so you risk ending up with a less than perfect installation. Make a mark on the wall at both ends of the room where you will place your first row. This will give you a reference point for where the whole planks should start and end.
Start by marking the centerline of the room and adjusting for any wall irregularities. Then, snap a chalk line or project a laser beam to create a precise guideline for installing the flooring. Take measurements carefully and double-check alignment before proceeding.
This can work well in square or rectangular rooms, but if the room has an uneven shape or the flooring is laid diagonally, it's not practical to start against a wall. In these cases, the best method is to snap a line down the center of the room and use that as a reference point for laying the first course.
To lay your flooring in a basic pattern, design experts recommend starting from the most visible wall of the room from the entrance. Lay your planks so that they run from end to end, parallel against this wall. It's recommended you start ¼ of an inch off the wall.
For your first row, you'll want the straightest planks, arranged with the tongue side facing the center of the room. Place spacers inside the expansion gap — the space between the wall and floor that allows the wood to expand from heat and humidity.
To get a perfectly square corner, you want to aim for a measurement ratio of 3:4:5. In other words, you want a three-foot length on your straight line, a four-foot length on your perpendicular line, and a five-foot length across. If all three measurements are correct, you'll have a perfectly square corner.
To ensure your flooring rows run perfectly straight, you'll need to run a string line. To do this, take the width of your laminate plank and add the expansion gap. Measure this distance from the wall and gently hammer a nail into the spot.
We recommend starting in the left corner of the longest wall in the room and to install the planks in the same direction as the main light source (e.g. the main window).
Grab your first plank board and gently trim off its tongue using your utility knife. Then, set the plank down, making sure the side without a tongue is facing the room's wall. As a rule, when laying the first row of planks, ensure you leave a tiny space (about a quarter of an inch) between the planks and the wall.
Install the Floors
Use your chalk line to mark the center of the walls and the snap lines to ensure that you get a straight line against the wall. Score the tongue of the plank using a utility knife and then place it on the starting line, with the tongue facing the starting wall.
Begin the first row of flooring by placing the planks with the tongue side facing the wall. Install the second plank next to the first by aligning the tongue into the groove and press the plank down to snap it in place. When you come to the end of the first row, cut the length of plank needed to complete the row.
A flat and level floor is key so that the adjoining vinyl plank flooring doesn't have varying heights. It is absolutely essential that the subfloor is completely level.
Lay the first row of vinyl plank flooring along the wall, leaving the manufacturer-recommended amount of expansion space between the plank's edge and the wall (usually about 1/4-inch). If the planks are cut, make sure the cut edge is facing the wall.
Orthogonal Projection of a Straight Line. If a straight line p is not a ray of projection (not perpendicular to either projection plane), then its horizontal and vertical projections are lines p' and p''. Hence, in Monge's projection, a straight line is represented by a pair of projections (p',p'').
When establishing a starting line, knowing where you want to close out the floor helps you get there neatly. If the room is reasonably square already (the walls measure parallel), snap a line parallel to the closing wall and simply transfer that line back to the starting wall and begin the installation.
Always start hardwood flooring along the most prominent and noticeable wall in the room. This way, if the room is out of square, the crooked cut will be hidden under the cabinet's toe kick. In order to keep the floor straight and square, start laying the laminate away from the wall because the wall may not be straight.
The truth of the matter is that there is no wrong way to lay them. There are more costly and more difficult ways, but there isn't a wrong way as long as they all follow the same direction. What seems natural to the room? It's a design choice.