For standard patterns like offset or straight set, we recommend a 3/16” grout joint size. If you'd like a tighter install,1/8" is the absolute minimum size we suggest.
If the grout is too thin, it may not harden properly. This causes cracks and holes to form. The grout needs to be thick enough to expand and contract as necessary with the temperature.
(think of how consistent porcelain subway tiles look.) with factory-made cement, porcelain and ceramic tiles, 1/16-inch grout lines can create an uninterrupted appearance. however, in high-traffic areas or spaces prone to moisture, consider opting for 1/8-inch lines for added durability and easier maintenance.
Skimping on grout can lead to serious issues like mold, mildew, and even structural damage due to moisture seeping into the cement beneath the tiles. By using minimal grout lines of at least 1/16”, you protect your investment and ensure your floors remain beautiful and intact for years to come.
Grout Float: A reliable grout float is your go-to tool for packing the grout into the joint. Make sure you have one on hand for precise application.
Dampen the substrate and tiles
The use of water is an important part of the entire installation process. Before grouting, use a clean sponge with potable water to dampen the substrate throughout the tile installation. Next, dampen the edges of the tiles with a light water spray bottle.
If you do a significant amount of grouting, you'll want to pick up a margin trowel style grout float and maybe a toe-kick float. These make easy work of the hard to reach areas and you'll be glad you have them in your grouting arsenal.
For standard patterns like offset or straight set, we recommend a 3/16” grout joint size. If you'd like a tighter install,1/8" is the absolute minimum size we suggest.
Removing the old grout
Once you have removed as much as you can with the power tools, it's time to complete the job with a screwdriver or a Stanley knife with a blunt blade to chip away at the remaining grout.
This section states that under no circumstances should the grout joint be less than 1/16" (1.6 mm).
Tiles with a square edge need to have the grout finished flush with the tiled surface. Tiles with a cushion or radius edge should have the grout finished to the bottom of the cushion or radius.
The first non-rectified or pressed tile back has a regular border around the edges. This non-rectified tile has a regular outline around the edges. Compare that to the rectified tile below where the regular border isn't present on the side where the cutting or grinding took place. This is a tell-tale of rectification.
Because sanded grout is stronger, denser, and generally more durable than unsanded grout, it's the preferred grout for tile floors. First, tile floors typically have wider joints, which require sanded grout.
If you're mixing grout for your walls, it should have a strong, thick consistency. It should be easily moldable and not too moist, similar to bread dough. Floor grout will be a bit smoother, like peanut butter.
First, the smallest grout lines, less than 1/8 inch, are ideal for rectified tiles. Rectified tiles are perfectly uniform, with precisely defined edges, requiring the least amount of grout. All other cuts of tile, from tumbled to chiseled to punched, contain slight variations in shape and size.
Grout line widths are a personal preference. There is no such thing as an ideal size for grout lines, although we must admit that small tiles do tend to look their best with narrow grout joints. If you have your heart set on tight grout joints, then you are in for a challenge!
Customers find the grout rake effective and easy to use for removing old grout. They appreciate its solid construction, reliable blades, and lifetime guarantee. The grout rake is comfortable to hold and fits well between tiles.
The grout should be dug out a minimum of 3mm deep (preferably deeper) so that new grout can have a firm base and a larger surface area of the sides of the tiles to adhere to. Do not attempt to apply new grout over the damaged existing grout.
Difficulty in Application: Grout that is either too thick or too runny can be challenging to apply evenly between the tiles. It may not fill the joints properly or leave excess grout on the tile surfaces, requiring additional cleaning and potentially causing damage to the tiles.
Is there a standard for grout depth on ceramic tiles 12" x 24" with a 3/16" grout width? It seems some of the tiles installed vary in depth of the grout from the top of the tiles as tested with a depth gauge. Minimum of 2/3 the depth of the tile, is the industry standard.
The gap you opt for will depend on a few factors: The size of tile you're using: smaller tiles often look great with thinner grout lines, around 2-3mm. For larger tiles or tiles with uneven edges, however, wider grout lines (3-5mm) can help with alignment and hide any imperfections.
Jim Whitfield, manager of Technical Services at Mapei told industry professionals, “Because epoxy grout is so tough, it wears extremely well. It doesn't wear down over time and become a tile gutter—like cement grout can—where all the dirt and liquid and junk collects.”
Although a grout float is considered to be the primary tool for grout application, there are other alternatives such as a grout bag, putty knife, or a sponge and cloth.
You can use either a margin trowel or the float to apply the grout to the joints, making sure you apply enough to fill tile gaps evenly. After applying, press the grout into the crevices using the float, pushing the grout inside and across to ensure that no void or unfilled space remains.