On most raw woods, start sanding in the direction of the grain using a #120-150 grit paper before staining and work up to #220 grit paper. Soft woods such as pine and alder: start with #120 and finish with no finer than #220 (for water base stains) and 180 grit for
Sand Thoroughly
Sandpaper with a lower grit number will make wood rougher, allowing more stain to absorb and creating a darker color. Start with 120-grit sandpaper for pieces that already have a finish. With unfinished wood, start with 80-grit sandpaper and then treat it as if you're refinishing it.
Sanding wood before staining affects how well the wood will absorb any stain. The finer the grit used in presanding means the less the wood will absorb the stain. That also is the case when sanding after the stain is applied. The more the wood is sanded, the less the stain will penetrate.
Be sure to progress up through every grit level; 60, 80, 100, 120, 150, 180, 220 and on. Typically you will want to stop at 180 or 220 if you are planning to stain the wood. Higher grits will close the pores of the wood and make it difficult for stain to penetrate. Go with the grain.
A smoother wood will absorb less stain so will generally appear lighter, but be careful not to over sand as this can close the wood so it doesn't take on the stain.
You may find both solid and semi-transparent options well-suited to rough-cut lumber. Solid stains bridge the gap between paint and stain, providing opaque, even coverage over your boards and concealing the natural wood grain. Due to their thickness, solid stains can provide the most UV and moisture damage protection.
If you have an idea of the type of timber you are staining, simply divide the estimated coverage by the number of coats you require. For example, if you are using Sadolin Classic on planed hardwood, with two coats required, you will get a coverage of 7.5m² per litre.
On most raw woods, start sanding in the direction of the grain using a #120-150 grit paper before staining and work up to #220 grit paper. Soft woods such as pine and alder: start with #120 and finish with no finer than #220 (for water base stains) and 180 grit for oil base stains.
If you sand in between coats of stain, you risk breaking the color and damaging the stain. Instead, you should sand the raw wood before applying a stain. Take a look at our recommended best practices for sanding to ensure that your wood piece is ready for staining.
Test. Complete the water drop test. If the wood absorbs the droplets your deck is ready for stain.
DECK SPEED MOPS AND STAIN PADS
A stain applicator pad or mop is a fast, effective option for large surface areas. They hold a lot of stain due to their absorbent fibers, they are easy to use, and they don't shed, lending to a flawless and even staining result.
Pressure Washing Prepares the Deck Surface for Stain
The prospect of a newly stained deck begins with comprehensively preparing the deck surface. Sanding the entire deck is often necessary to purge any remnants of old stain, paint, or varnish, thereby ensuring the wood is primed for a fresh application.
Some ingredients in both stains and finishes settle over time, but shaking will only add unwanted bubbles—and may not mix the ingredients thoroughly. Always stir until all settlement is evenly dispersed.
Cleaner or mild soap removes dirt, while mineral spirits provide a final clean before staining. Safety gear keeps you protected when working with chemicals. A moisture meter can help you test if the surface is dry enough to stain.
Unquestionably, the most efficient progression is to sand through every grit – #80, #100, #120, #150, #180 – sanding just enough with each to remove the scratches of the previous grit. But most of us sand more than we need to, so it's often more efficient to skip grits.
Do You Have to Sand Before Staining Wood? Wood needs to be sanded well before it can be stained. The process opens up the wood's pores to better absorb the stain. It also smoothes away scratches in the surface which will only be enhanced by stain.
Minwax® PolyShades® is an easy way to change the color of your currently stained or polyurethane finished wood. There's no stripping or heavy sanding necessary to remove the old finish!
The Golden Rule of Sanding
The golden rule for choosing your sequence is to never skip more than 1 grit. For example, if you start with P80, and need to finish at P240, rather than using every grit from P80 – P220, you can do P80 – P120 – P180 – P240. This sequence cuts out P100, P150 and P220.
Cheesecloth: White 100% cotton cheesecloth is great for staining. Since it is a thinner material, it is easier to fill the wood grain and covers your surface better. To use, simply bunch up and start wiping away stains on your surface.
Wipe With a Clean White Cloth
Use a clean cloth to wipe the rest of the dust from the surface of your wood after using specialized equipment. This helps you pick up any extra dust particles to ensure the wood is clean and ready for stain or paint. Use a white cloth so you can see how much dust you pick up.
Staining is not always advisable, but it can solve a lot of problems. Before you stain any piece of furniture, take a good look at it. If it's made of cherry, maple, mahogany, rosewood, aged pine, or any of the rare woods, the wood should probably not be stained; these woods look best in their natural color.
All it takes is a light sanding to open up the pores of the wood. Most stains recommend a 50-80 grit sandpaper being used. Anything higher than an 80 grit will begin to reseal the wood and the stain will not penetrate.