Installing house wrap creates a crucial weather-resistant barrier between your sheathing and siding, protecting the house from bulk water and air leaks. The primary goal is to "shingle" the walls, meaning upper layers always overlap lower layers to shed water downward.
Plastic cap nails or plastic cap staples are highly recommended for fastening the building wrap. Simply put, the use of caps seals holes made by the penetration of the fasteners.
House wrap always goes after the sheathing. It is installed directly over the structural sheathing (like OSB or plywood) and underneath the siding. This placement prevents moisture from reaching the wood while still allowing trapped vapor to escape the wall cavity.
All of the seams for the product should be taped according to manufacturer's instructions. Most house wrap manufacturer installation instructions have minimum horizontal overlaps of 4-6 inches and minimum vertical overlaps of 6 -12 inches. Most also require or recommend 1 in.
There are several problems with Tyvek® House Wrap that diminish its ability to resist water and air.
No, DuPont™ Tyvek® is not a vapor barrier. It is made with unique material science to keep air and bulk water out while allowing moisture vapor inside walls to escape.
No, it does not matter if Tyvek building wrap is installed upside down or even with the logos facing inward. The material is non-directional and functions exactly the same way regardless of orientation, providing the same air infiltration and moisture protection.
Tyvek® installation isn't just about covering surfaces—it's about creating a seamless barrier. Plan for overlaps. Vertical seams should overlap by at least 6 inches, while horizontal seams need a 12-inch overlap. These overlaps are your insurance against water infiltration.
T50 staples are the world's best-selling heavy duty staple platform. Made to deliver exceptional holding power, these staples are used for all heavy duty stapling applications from installing insulation, house wraps and roofing underlayments to upholstering fine furniture and window treatments.
Overlap all vertical seems by 6-12”. Secure Tyvek® WRB to the stud or other nail-base material, i.e., wood sheathing. Fasteners should be placed no closer than 6” and no farther than 18” on vertical stud lines.
The best way to install house wrap is from the bottom up using a shingling method, ensuring upper layers overlap lower layers. Fasten with plastic cap nails, overlap horizontal seams by at least 6 inches and vertical seams by 12 inches, and use manufacturer-approved tape to seal all edges, joints, and penetrations.
In new construction, or in remodeling projects in which the existing windows will be replaced, the DuPont™ Tyvek® WRB can be installed under or over the DuPont Exterior Continuous Insulation based on whether the windows will be aligned with the exterior finished wall or recessed from it.
Don't Skip Sealing Seams, Edges, and Penetrations
A vapor barrier with unsealed seams fails at every gap. Moisture and soil gases enter through even small openings. Overlap panels by at least 12 inches and tape every seam.
Install the house wrap tightly: Loosely installed house wrap is a liability in terms of proper installation and long-term performance.
You can leave Tyvek exposed for a maximum of 120 days (4 months).
If it is true Tyvek brand, and the added layer is true Tyvek brand, two layers are fine. The Vapor permeability is 54 and a double layer would take it down to 27. An ideal wall has a weather barrier with a perm rating of 20 or above so that water vapor dries out.
No, functionally it does not matter which side of standard Tyvek faces out. Tyvek HomeWrap, DrainWrap, and StuccoWrap are completely non-directional and provide the same water resistance and breathability on both sides.
While Tyvek is a popular house wrap for preventing bulk water and air infiltration, it has notable disadvantages. Its effectiveness depends heavily on proper installation.
Yes, mold can absolutely grow under a vapor barrier. While vapor barriers are designed to block moisture, any moisture that gets trapped beneath the barrier—due to a plumbing leak, groundwater seepage, or poor installation—will create a prime environment for mold to grow, out of sight.
No, Tyvek® Supro / Supro Plus does not need any soffit, tile or ridge ventilation, therefore saving time and money. 2- Do I need an airspace between the insulation and breather membrane? Because the Tyvek® Supro / Supro Plus membrane breathes, it does not need an airspace.
Stapling is the most common method of attaching Tyvek. Staples should be spaced 6 inches apart and driven into the studs or joists. Nailing is another option for attaching Tyvek. Nails should be spaced 12 inches apart and driven into the studs or joists.
"Better" than Tyvek depends on your project. For home building, Zip System Sheathing and Henry Blueskin outperform traditional house wraps by acting as fully adhered, all-in-one moisture and air barriers. For camping, Polycryo is significantly lighter, more puncture-resistant, and packs smaller than Tyvek.
While Tyvek manages moisture, it's not immune to all moisture-related problems. Two of its main issues are mold growth and sensitivity to surfactants.