Overestimating precision: Cut drywall slightly smaller than needed. A gap of about 1/4 inch is easier to fill than forcing a too-tight fit.
Professional drywall installers allow for ⅛-inch space between sheetrock placement, and this allows for expansion and contraction for the frame of the building, avoiding cracks and damage to the drywall. Remember, it is easier to fill a gap than cut and repair broken drywall.
One of the most important things to remember in drywall installation is to make sure that there is a smooth finish across the entire surface once the drywall is implemented onto the wall. There should be no screw holes showing. There should also be no dents, cracks, or noticeable markings.
The tolerance of 1/8” in 10'-0” is commonly used in jobsite specifications and referred to as the “industry standard” for flatness in gypsum board finishing.
When installed on ceilings, 5/8-inch-thick panels are less susceptible to sagging between the joists than 1/2-inch panels. Adding popcorn texture or another type of heavy surfacing material can add to the weight problem, making 5/8-inch drywall a better choice for ceilings.
There's no reason to measure and cut drywall for an exact fit. It'll usually just cause trouble. Jamming in a piece that's too tight will crumble the edge or break out a corner (left).
You need to allow enough space for expansion and contraction of the framing members, which occurs naturally as seasons change. Without enough space when this happens, you'll get cracks. Keep a 1/8-inch space between sheets during installation to keep this from happening.
Rough framing must adhere to high accuracy standards for structural integrity. Otherwise, the project risks collapse due to improperly constructed foundations or rough framing. While perfection isn't always achievable, accuracy in measurements is crucial.
5/8″ is required in some applications. All commercial requires it and residential garages typically have 5/8″ drywall. It is better than 1/2″. Warning, do not use on walls in a residential application as the door jambs will not fit, unless you have specifically purchased larger frame door jambs.
If you notice a lot of bumps or uneven surfaces, then it's likely due to improper drywall finishing. Keep in mind, some roughness near lower levels of the finish might be acceptable, but be sure to pay close attention to corners and edges as these areas can especially appear to be uneven.
You can hang drywall vertically (tall and narrow) or horizontally (short and wide). Vertical drywall is easier to install, aligns with studs, requires less cutting, and fits tall ceilings. Drywall has more seams, is more likely to crack, and is weaker against horizontal pressure when hung vertically.
Always leave a 1/2-inch gap at the floor.
Most gaps between drywall sheets can be taped and mudded over like usual. But gaps of up to 1/2-inch between drywall sheets are significant. Paper drywall tape itself is only 2 inches wide, so that type of gap is a quarter of the tape's width.
Use about 32 drywall screws per sheet of 4-foot by 8-foot drywall installed horizontally on a wall. This total is comprised of four screws on the five middle studs and six screws on each of the two sides.
Echoing this, the UFGS suggests a 1/4″ tolerance limit for layout of walls and partitions, relative to intended location. The UFGS also recommends a 1/4″ in 8ˈ tolerance for straightness of plates and runners and true plane of framing when finishes such as wallboard, plaster or ceramic set in a mortar bed are used.
Studs need to be at either 16″ or 24″ center-to-center. 24″ is the maximum span for sheetrock. Layout framing from one end. Keep your starting end consistent throughout the house.
The Gypsum Association has determined that joints in non-rated systems are permitted to be up to 1/4- inch in width at the widest point and must be pre-filled with joint compound. Up to 1/8-inch wide gaps can be filled with all-purpose or taping compound, either ready-mixed or setting type.
In certain cases, putting new drywall over old drywall is a cost-effective and speedy way to refresh a room. A few of the advantages of putting drywall on drywall include: It's less extensive than tearing out and replacing existing drywall. It can help soundproof a room.
high or less, attaching the drywall horizontally can reduce the lineal footage of seams by as much as 25% over vertical attachment. When combined with the longest sheets possible, butt seams are minimized, and those that do appear land between studs where they can be back-blocked to make them easier to finish.
Hang the Ceiling First
This makes it much easier to manage and attach the panels since you will not have to fumble around with the screws, measuring tape, and so on. Screws for drywall lids should be placed no closer than 16” from the wall. This allows the drywall to have a bit of flexibility to prevent ceiling cracks.
Hand-check to make sure your drywall finishing is smooth and ready for primer. Be sure all joints, screw holes, and taping has been fine-sanded smooth and ready for primer. If you need to sand further, be sure to use a standard sanding block as shown, with at least 180 grit sanding screens to smooth the wall.