On most raw woods, start sanding in the direction of the grain using a #120-150 grit paper before staining and work up to #220 grit paper. Soft woods such as pine and alder: start with #120 and finish with no finer than #220 (for water base stains) and 180 grit for
Sand Thoroughly
Sandpaper with a lower grit number will make wood rougher, allowing more stain to absorb and creating a darker color. Start with 120-grit sandpaper for pieces that already have a finish. With unfinished wood, start with 80-grit sandpaper and then treat it as if you're refinishing it.
Be sure to progress up through every grit level; 60, 80, 100, 120, 150, 180, 220 and on. Typically you will want to stop at 180 or 220 if you are planning to stain the wood. Higher grits will close the pores of the wood and make it difficult for stain to penetrate. Go with the grain.
For stain projects I recommend sanding up to no more than 220-grit sandpaper. If you get too much finer the wood has a hard time taking in the stain, or it will not be true to the color on the can.
Sanding is a crucial step in preparing wood for staining, as it helps achieve a smooth and uniform surface that allows the stain to penetrate evenly. However, it's essential to understand the right sanding techniques and the appropriate grit range for different wood types to achieve the best results.
On most raw woods, start sanding in the direction of the grain using a #120-150 grit paper before staining and work up to #220 grit paper. Soft woods such as pine and alder: start with #120 and finish with no finer than #220 (for water base stains) and 180 grit for oil base stains.
Do You Have to Sand Before Staining Wood? Wood needs to be sanded well before it can be stained. The process opens up the wood's pores to better absorb the stain. It also smoothes away scratches in the surface which will only be enhanced by stain.
Fine-grit sandpaper (150-180): Great for final sanding before you finish your piece.
Ensure that all sanding residue is removed by wiping your whole piece down with a damp microfiber cloth or sponge. Allow to dry completely.
Isolated sanding marks can be addressed by repairing/resanding individual areas. Resanding the affected areas may require the first cut with the big machine to be on a steep angle, followed up with straight cuts. Use of a hard plate, multi-disc or planetary sander also will help alleviate some sanding marks.
It's best to use a backing pad when wet sanding to achieve a uniform finish. Instead of using small circles as you would with dry sanding, wet sand in a straight line, first horizontally and then vertically.
If you sand in between coats of stain, you risk breaking the color and damaging the stain. Instead, you should sand the raw wood before applying a stain. Take a look at our recommended best practices for sanding to ensure that your wood piece is ready for staining.
With a staining brush, work both with the grain and against it. Don't worry about being neat; all that matters is getting a nice, even, liberal coat over the wood. Wipe the stain off immediately if you'd like a lighter tone. But for a deeper tone, leave the stain on the wood for 5 to 10 minutes before wiping it off.
Unquestionably, the most efficient progression is to sand through every grit – #80, #100, #120, #150, #180 – sanding just enough with each to remove the scratches of the previous grit. But most of us sand more than we need to, so it's often more efficient to skip grits.
In general, how deeply a finish penetrated the wood depended more on the species of wood than on whether the finish was oil- or water-based, or listed as a film-forming or penetrating stain. For example, in lodgepole pine, deep was 3/8 inch; in cedar, deep was more than 1 1/4 inches.
The Golden Rule of Sanding
The golden rule for choosing your sequence is to never skip more than 1 grit. For example, if you start with P80, and need to finish at P240, rather than using every grit from P80 – P220, you can do P80 – P120 – P180 – P240. This sequence cuts out P100, P150 and P220.
Don't push down, even the slightest bit. The weight of the tool and your hand is enough to get the results you want. In fact, pressing down can bog the motor, slowing down the process and harming the surface. Let the sandpaper do the work.
To sand properly, your coats of paint should dry a minimum of 24 hours, potentially extending your project out for a few days. This is a good time to weigh speed and quality, because the more quality you require, the longer your project will take.
If you have oil-based stains (which dries slower), brushing or spraying large areas could work, but lacquer and water-based stains simply dry too fast. This could result in imprints of the bristles on your wood surface. You won't have that problem when you apply and finish staining with lint-free cloth wipers.
Applying the second coat too soon can result in peeling or uneven coloration, while waiting too long may hinder absorption. Manufacturer Guidelines: Most stains recommend waiting at least 4 hours between coats or until the first coat is completely dry.
Simply apply additional coats of the same stain until you achieve the desired depth of color. Remember to allow each coat to dry completely before adding another.
DECK SPEED MOPS AND STAIN PADS
A stain applicator pad or mop is a fast, effective option for large surface areas. They hold a lot of stain due to their absorbent fibers, they are easy to use, and they don't shed, lending to a flawless and even staining result.
If you really want to avoid sanding, you can use a liquid sander or deglosser. These products help dull the existing finish on your floor so that a new stain or finish can adhere properly. A liquid sander is easy to apply—just wipe it on, wait a few minutes, and then wipe it off.
Using a stain pad apply the stain evenly in the direction of the grain, two or three boards at a time, moving from end to end. Continue to the exposed ends. Allow the stain to dry for one to two hours before applying a second coat.