How Long Should I Wait Before Using the Pool After Plastering? Unlike ordinary plaster which needs to dry completely first, pool plaster works differently. One the plaster dries out; you need to fill the pool with water. The plaster material cures under water in about 7-10 days.
Q: What happens if it rains? A: Rain causes delays on the job. We cannot excavate, gunite, pour concrete, install tile or coping, or plaster a pool during the rain. In most cases, we will not work during rain days.
Gunite is considered fully cured in 28 days. Interior finishes of gunite pools need to be kept underwater or wet. Therefore it is normal that the Gunite pools have tile installed along the top six inches of the pool. This is to transition from water to air and keep the finish wet.
Concrete, when applied using the shotcrete process, or cast-in-place, needs to cure for 7 days. Water is the best curing method (7 continuous days).
Typically installed 3-4 days after gunite, the tile and coping crew will install your tile, coping, and trim or spot tile selections.
The major difference between the two is that shotcrete is applied pre-mixed with water, so it simply hardens where it falls. On the other hand, gunite is applied as a dry plaster which mixes with water as it leaves the hose.
The best thing to do is spray the gunite with a hose 2-3 times a day for a week or so after it is shot. Helps keep shrinkage cracks to a minimum... so a light rain a few hours after it is shot is actually good for it.
On average, gunite swimming pools last 7 to 10 years before they need to be resurfaced. When that time comes, it's important to know what options are available so that you can pick the best choice for your backyard space.
Do not walk down steps or ledges on the same day it was put in as the pressure of having all of your weight on one foot could cause an imprint. Gunite/shotcrete is applied much drier than poured concrete. You can literally walk on it with in a few hours of it being applied.
While the rain can harm the chlorination process, it can also create issues with the plastering process too. Rain will cause streaks, discoloration, and curing mistakes once the plastering has begun. Not only will it cause streaking, but it also causes something called hydrostatic holes in the granite and plaster.
Check cracks and crazing are quite normal and very rarely, if ever, leak. If the crazing is unacceptable or seem to be more than normal, consult the plaster company. They are able to create a plaster slurry and fill in these cracks. Major cracks or structure cracks are caused by soil movement.
Allow BOND-KOTE to cure for at least six (6) hours before plastering. The plaster should be applied to BOND-KOTE within three (3) to five (5) days. If left for a longer period before the finish is applied, ensure Bond Kote is clean and free of dirt, efflorescence, and other contaminants.
Chlorine/non-chlorine chemicals – When adding chlorine or non-chlorine chemicals to “shock” your pool after a fill-up, wait about 24 hours or until levels are approximately 5 ppm. If you'll only be adding liquid chlorine, it's generally safe to swim after about 4 hours or until levels are 5 ppm or lower.
Brush the pool twice a day for the first two weeks. This opens the pores of the plaster to allow proper curing as well as removes any loose plaster dust from the surface. You may notice plaster dusting when you brush and the water becomes cloudy.
If your pool is full 8-1-15 and they do NOT do an acid start, you can swim soon. I suggest getting the startup done first acid or Bi-carb, and once done you can swim.
Custom Gunite pools are very durable. Among the different types of in-ground pools available today, Gunite pools last the longest and have the best warranties. This should be taken into account when considering the higher cost of Gunite pools. You'll get many more years of use from a Gunite swimming pool.
Gunite pools are incredibly durable and do not require a liner. This allows the pool to look better and retain its shape over time. One of the main disadvantages of a gunite pool is the time it takes to install the pool from start to finish.
While Marcite plaster is the least expensive of the gunite pool surfaces, it does have its disadvantages. The surface can start to show visible chipping or etching after 5 to 7 years. They will also start to stain, and inhibit algae due to its porous surface and is the least durable in the plaster pool family.
Gunite dries and gets hard very quickly. As a matter of fact, it can dry too quickly. It is necessary for you to water cure your Gunite to slow the drying time down. In the summer, wet the pool down at least 5 times a day, more if you can get to it.
Shotcrete needs to be protected from rain until it obtains its final set, usually 4 or 5 hours. Following final set, it should be wet cured for at least 4 days, preferably 7 days if possible. The exposure to rain would prove beneficial as the rain would assure the presence of moisture for continued curing.
Concrete is only workable up to an hour or so anyway. A little rain is unlikely to disturb even a slab for an hour after that. Remember, you are actually supposed to cover concrete to avoid moisture evaporating prematurely.
To be structurally sound, a concrete pool shell should generally be 6 inches thick. Depending on the engineer and the soil condition, it may be more. (On top of that, the plaster interior finish should be at least ⅜ inch thick.) The pool will also need to meet the ANSI/APSP standards.
Shotcrete, then known as gunite, was invented in 1907 by American taxidermist Carl Akeley to repair the crumbling façade of the Field Columbian Museum in Chicago (the old Palace of Fine Arts from the World's Columbian Exposition).
While they are easier to install, fiberglass pools are nowhere near as durable as a gunite inground pool. The inside surface of this type pool is a gel coat on which the fiberglass has been laminated. The walls of the pool are only ½ to ⅜ inch thick compared to the 8 to 10 inch thickness of a gunite pool.