Yes, it's possible to over-shock a pool. Pool “shock” is simply a concentrated version of chlorine, and using too much of it can result in your pool water becoming cloudy. If you over-shock your pool, avoid swimming in it until the water clears up. Remove the cover—if you have one—to speed up the process.
But there is no need to use this more expensive shock if adding it just before closing the pool. That is, unless your mesh safety cover lets in a lot of sunlight. Regular chlorine pool shock or non-chlorine pool shock is usually the best choice as a winterizing pool shock.
Shocking kills any bacteria that might linger in your pool during the winter. We recommend shocking a few days before you close the pool. If that is not possible, make sure to shock the pool the night before you close it for winter.
How much shock do I need to shock my pool? A simple ratio and a standard rule of thumb to follow when you shock your pool is to dissolve one pound of either calcium hypochlorite or sodium dichlor for every 10,000 gallons of pool water.
Once you know where your pool chemistry stands, balance the water, adjusting the pH to 7.2 - 7.6, alkalinity between 80 and 120 ppm, and calcium hardness between 200 and 350 ppm. Shock your pool with Pool Breeze Granular Shock or 12.5% Liquid Shock two days prior to closing.
By simply adding algaecide to your water prior to closing, you can prevent algae growth from occurring during the cold, winter months which makes for an easier opening in the spring. You can apply algaecide directly to the pool water and allow the pump to continue to circulate for approximately two to four hours.
After Shocking Your Pool
It is safe to swim once your chlorine levels are around 5 ppm or after 24 hours.
Chlorine is a sanitizer, and (unless you use Baquacil products) is necessary for maintaining a clear and healthy pool. Shock is chlorine, in a high dose, meant to shock your pool and raise the chlorine level quickly.
It Should Not Be Done Together
This is because when you mix chlorine and algaecide together, it renders both of them useless. Hence, you should first shock the pool and wait for the chlorine levels to fall below 5 PPM.
For use, consult the directions listed on the packaging of the shock you buy. Typically, a 1-pound bag is enough for 10,000 gallons of water. Mix the product with some pool water in a large bucket. Then, as the filter is running, pour the mixture into the pool.
If your pool has been green all season you're probably super excited to close it. While it seems like the easiest option – it's not! It's much smarter to close your pool as clean as possible. Algae can grow in water as cold as 50 degrees.
Algaecide should be used after each shock treatment, so it has a better chance to support your chlorine as it works its magic. Be sure to shock your pool first, then when the chlorine levels of your pool return to normal, add the correct amount of algaecide to several places around your pool while your pump is running.
Liquid chlorine and granular shock have the same active chemical that sanitizes your pool, what changes is the strength and the way you use it. Liquid chlorine is less costly, unstabilized and comes in liquid form. Granular shock is stabilized and comes in a solid form that dissolves in your pool.
Types of Pool Shock. There are several types of products you can use to shock the pool. Typically, you will not use regular chlorine tablets as pool shock chlorine. Calcium Hypochlorite: Also referred to as cal hypo, this chemical is one of the least costly and most convenient ways to shock your pool.
But if the cloudy water persists long after you've shocked the pool, you're likely having an issue with water balance, circulation, or filtration. Heavy use of a calcium based pool shock (cal-hypo) may increase Calcium Hardness over a period of time, increasing your odds of cloudy water.
A pool filter should be run for a minimum of 6 hours after shocking a swimming pool. This is to allow the filter to clean the water and give the shock enough time to fully mix with the pool water. Running the filter after shocking for 24 hours to 7 days is necessary if the pool has a large amount of algae.
You really only need one chemical (algaecide) to properly winterize a swimming pool. You need some other stuff to protect your pool from harsh winter conditions, but only one chemical to add when closing.
Non Chlorine Shock is a powerful, odourless oxidising agent, which essentially means it works to eliminate contaminents in hot tub water. Oxidation is different to sanitisation. Oxidation is the breaking down of the oils and organics in your water whereas sanitisation is the killing of bacteria.
There are several saltwater pool closing kits on the market and most of them include the same things: an algaecide, stain-fighter or scale inhibitor, and an oxidizer. Use a closing kit to gain the benefits from these three products or purchase them separately–whatever works best for you and your pool.