A non-chlorine shock does not disinfect the water which is why its main use is as a weekly treatment to oxidise the water and help remove contaminants and clear cloudy water. The non-chlorine shock will help your chlorine work better by creating 'Free chlorine' which is the type of chlorine needed to kill bacteria.
Choose your dose of shock according to the package and label. Be cautious while putting shock into the water. After NON-CHLORINE shock wait 10-15 minutes before entering. After chlorine shock it can take up to 24 hours to clear.
Conclusion. Non-chlorine shock is a good option if you want to get rid of organic debris and murky water and go right back to swimming. It is also effective to reduce combined chlorine. If you have an algae bloom or are worried about extra bacteria from a heavy load of swimmers, only chlorinated shock will do the trick ...
When and How To Use Non Chlorine Shock
Non Chlorine Shock is a powder that comes in many forms which we will outline below. We recommend adding Non Chlorine Shock weekly alongside your existing hot tub maintenance routine but in some situations such as severe foaming or cloudy water, extra dosing may be required.
Non-chlorine shock, such as Leslie's Fresh 'n Clear, is an oxidizer. It uses the power of “active oxygen” to destroy contaminants in pool and spa water. This eases the load of your regular FAC residual, allowing that chlorine to stay effective longer. This, in turn, prevents chloramines from building up.
If too much is added, it can cause the overall pH level of the pool to drop for a sustained period, which you'll then have to raise. Whereas, with a chlorinated shock, if you overdose the pool on it, all you have to do is wait a few extra hours for the sun to burn off the chlorine.
A non-chlorine shock does not disinfect the water which is why its main use is as a weekly treatment to oxidise the water and help remove contaminants and clear cloudy water. The non-chlorine shock will help your chlorine work better by creating 'Free chlorine' which is the type of chlorine needed to kill bacteria.
When applied in significant quantities, non-chlorine shock can cause your pool water to have unhealthy total alkalinity levels. Furthermore, the total dissolved solids content will simultaneously increase.
When you're shocking a pool, the goal is to raise the free chlorine level of the pool water to roughly 10 times the combined chlorine level.
While shocking and adding algaecide is effective in getting rid of algae, it should not be done together. This is because when you mix chlorine and algaecide together, it renders both of them useless. Hence, you should first shock the pool and wait for the chlorine levels to fall below 5 PPM.
A non-chlorine oxidizer removes contaminants from your water. These can include body oils, lotions, ammonia, and sweat. One of the benefits of using a non-chlorine oxidizer is that it allows your chlorine to do its best work in the hot tub water.
Basically, it uses reactive oxygen (“active oxygen”) to oxidize and remove contaminants from pool and spa water such as those found in sweat, urine and windblown debris. So it doesn't add chlorine to your pool, and it doesn't create chlorinated by-products — like chloramines.
Are chlorine and shock the same thing? SKIMMER NOTES: No. Chlorine and shock are not the same thing. Shock has a more intense chemical strength than the traditional chlorine sanitizers, and it also differs in how you should apply it to your swimming pool.
A pool filter should be run for a minimum of 6 hours after shocking a swimming pool. This is to allow the filter to clean the water and give the shock enough time to fully mix with the pool water. Running the filter after shocking for 24 hours to 7 days is necessary if the pool has a large amount of algae.
Neither will chlorination be effective with a diffuser and without a pump. The best thing to do is to apply liquid chlorine in the pool. Then, you have to circulate the pool manually with the use of a telescopic pole or paddle. This will ensure the chlorine disperse well.
After Shocking Your Pool
It is safe to swim once your chlorine levels are around 5 ppm or after 24 hours.
Shocking the water with chlorine will eliminate excessive chloramines, but it requires raising the spa chlorine level to approximately 10 ppm. After super-chlorinating the water, bathers must wait until the chlorine residual comes down to the acceptable range, between 1 ppm and 5 ppm, before getting back in the water.
We recommend that you allow the sanitizer levels to break down naturally. But if you have to use your hot tub, then you can add sodium thiosulfate to the water. Sodium thiosulfate will break down both chlorine and bromine in your water. This will lower the bromine or chlorine levels fast so you can soak sooner.
When you shock a pool, you test and adjust the pH level for a reason. With that said, if you shock a pool outside of the 7.2 to 7.4 pH range, not only will you waste a significant amount of the chlorine used, you will also end up with cloudy water.
1) What is the difference between chlorine and shock? Do I need to use both? Chlorine is a sanitizer, and (unless you use Baquacil products) is necessary for maintaining a clear and healthy pool. Shock is chlorine, in a high dose, meant to shock your pool and raise the chlorine level quickly.
The honest truth is that every hot tub owner has accidentally over-shocked their hot tub at least once. It happens from time to time and it's not the end of the world. Try to keep it to a minimum, though, as it can damage your hot tub and actually harm your body, too.
Adding too much pool shock or putting too many chlorine tablets to the feeder can both result in very high levels of chlorine. Another common way to over-chlorinate a pool is to leave a liquid chlorine pump running all night – you'll often come in the next day to discover a greenish-looking pool.