It's common to think that everything should be chopped down to the ground in the fall, but some perennials actually need their foliage to protect new shoots through the winter. Other varieties offer up important habitat for local wildlife and some perennials provide height and interest through the winter months.
2. Perennials and shrubs that are in your zone or one colder can be overwintered in an unheated garage, buried in the ground, or transplanted. 3. Perennials and shrubs in containers will need water through the winter but should not be kept wet.
Also, do not cut back hardy perennials like garden mums (Chrysanthemum spp.), anise hyssop (Agastache foeniculum), red-hot poker (Kniphofia uvaria), and Montauk daisy (Nipponanthemum nipponicum). Leave the foliage. It's important to protect the root crowns over winter.
Q: When is the best time to cut back in the fall? A: “When they start to look too ratty for you and before the fresh new growth begins,” says Sarah. For plants that are frost-sensitive, wait until after the plants have gone through several hard frosts to ensure they're dormant before cutting back.
The key to success with garage storage is that this area is attached to the house but not heated. The garage never goes below 32 degrees but tends to hover in the 40's and low 50's all winter. This keeps the plant dormant but the plants never freeze. Watering is needed, but not too much or too often.
Bulbs and perennials emerging from the ground do not need to be protected from sub-freezing temperatures. They are growing according to nature's schedule. You don't need to protect plants until after we've had an extended warm period.
Frost zaps many perennials back to the ground. Plants are busy storing sugars and other nutrients in their roots to sustain them through winter. To support plants through this season of transition, make sure they get adequate water until the ground freezes.
Cutting back of dead or dying top growth is the only maintenance that is needed for winter preparation. Cut the stems down to the ground, or to the basal growth if you are gardening in the warmer hardiness zones. Alternatively, the flower stems can be left to cut back in the spring.
Many gardeners cut back their perennials much too soon. There are nuances specific to certain perennials that dictate whether it is better to cut them back in fall or spring, but the general rule I like to follow is to only cut back perennials that start looking bad in fall.
A good rule of thumb is that if the plant blooms on new growth, it can be pruned in winter, before the new season's growth begins and after the final bloom of the year. Be careful with spring-blooming shrubs—those usually can't be pruned in winter without damaging the flower buds and ruining the blooming season.
Perennial Flowers: Most perennial plants do not suffer frost damage and do not need to be covered. Frost sensitive perennials include Hostas and Bleeding Hearts. They should be covered to protect their foliage and flowers. Cover any blooming or budded up perennials.
Some perennials, like hostas, peonies and daylilies, need to be pruned in fall to avoid winter damage. Plants like these should be pruned after the first few frosts in late fall or early winter.
The newly emerged growth of most perennials can tolerate temperatures in the low 30s and upper 20s Fahrenheit. Freeze damage may occur if temperatures drop into the lower 20s or teens. Most well-established perennials that have been damaged by freezing temperatures should survive.
A covered porch usually provides protection from light frost, but the garage or sun room is better for freezing temperatures. A couple days in darkness won't hurt the plant. Or move them out during the day and back in at night, if cold temperatures persist.
On woody plants, the leaves will yellow and drop off. Keep the dormant plants dry, but not so dry that the soil becomes powdery. Check soil moisture often and if very dry, lightly water. In most situations, light watering will be needed every two to four weeks.
A heated location isn't always necessary. Moving plants to a space like a garden shed or growing plants in a garage will provide enough protection when it gets cold.
To prevent the disease from returning the following year, we suggest cutting the plants back in the fall and removing any debris – no matter the variety! It will give your plants a clean start next season. *Destroy any foliage with symptoms of powdery mildew and disinfect pruners before trimming other plants.
"As soon as trees and shrubs go into dormancy, pruning can begin," he said. "And you can prune up to the time when buds begin to plump up." From mid-November to mid-March, you can shape and thin your deciduous plants in preparation for the spring season ahead.
But when should hostas be cut back? Hostas should be cut back in late fall. Healthy hosta leaves can be left on the plant in early fall to capture much-needed energy, but all leaves should be trimmed off after the first frost to deter slugs and other pests from making your hosta their winter home.