Some perennials, like hostas, peonies and daylilies, need to be pruned in fall to avoid winter damage. Plants like these should be pruned after the first few frosts in late fall or early winter. Other perennials like mums and coneflowers are better off being pruned in spring just before new growth comes in.
2. Perennials and shrubs that are in your zone or one colder can be overwintered in an unheated garage, buried in the ground, or transplanted. 3. Perennials and shrubs in containers will need water through the winter but should not be kept wet.
Plants and perennials that require additional protection to survive your winter will need a deep layer of mulch added by mid November or later, when the ground is beginning to freeze. Do NOT add deep mulch too early or your plants will not be slowly exposed to colder temperatures, allowing them to acclimate for winter.
Perennials NOT to Cut Back
Also, do not cut back hardy perennials like garden mums (Chrysanthemum spp.), anise hyssop (Agastache foeniculum), red-hot poker (Kniphofia uvaria), and Montauk daisy (Nipponanthemum nipponicum). Leave the foliage. It's important to protect the root crowns over winter.
Overwintering Techniques
The general consensus seems to be that the best way to overwinter containerized perennials is to take the entire pot and bury it in the ground. This way, the roots are protected like they would be if the plants were actually planted in the garden.
Perennial Flowers: Most perennial plants do not suffer frost damage and do not need to be covered. Frost sensitive perennials include Hostas and Bleeding Hearts. They should be covered to protect their foliage and flowers. Cover any blooming or budded up perennials.
So, keep an eye out for your local weather forecast and get your plant coverings ready when temperatures are forecast to dip to 32 degrees F and below.
Frost zaps many perennials back to the ground. Plants are busy storing sugars and other nutrients in their roots to sustain them through winter. To support plants through this season of transition, make sure they get adequate water until the ground freezes.
Thoroughly Water plants if it's not going to rain before the freezing temperatures arrive. It may sound illogical. However, a moist ground stays warmer than dry soil. Watering the night before the freeze comes will insulate the root structure of the grass and plants and decreases the potential for cold injury.
Cutting back of dead or dying top growth is the only maintenance that is needed for winter preparation. Cut the stems down to the ground, or to the basal growth if you are gardening in the warmer hardiness zones. Alternatively, the flower stems can be left to cut back in the spring.
Many gardeners cut back their perennials much too soon. There are nuances specific to certain perennials that dictate whether it is better to cut them back in fall or spring, but the general rule I like to follow is to only cut back perennials that start looking bad in fall.
It's important to cut back foliage in the fall to protect flowering plants from disease and give them a clean start for regrowth as winter starts to turn into spring. However, there are some plants you can keep around through the winter since they benefit wildlife and still offer visual interest for your home.
A fabric covering is best because it will allow moisture to escape while still protecting your plants from frost. Fabric coverings will prevent the freezing air from coming into direct contact with the moisture on the plant while also capturing the heat that is radiating from the ground.
Cover Plants – Protect plants from all but the hardest freeze (28°F for five hours) by covering them with sheets, towels, blankets, cardboard or a tarp. You can also invert baskets, coolers or any container with a solid bottom over plants. Cover plants before dark to trap warmer air.
Moist soil may absorb more heat and radiate it throughout the night. Cover plants before sundown to trap the stored heat from during the day. If you wait to cover it until after nightfall, the heat may have dissipated. Use frost cloth, burlap, drop cloths, sheets, blankets, or even newspapers to cover plants.
Heated Greenhouses with Roll-up Sides
This method requires minimal fuel and results in very few plant losses. To use this method, perennial houses are heated to 50°F until all of the plants are well rooted, then the temperature is slowly decreased to 35°F so the plants will vernalize and flower in the spring.
The key to success with garage storage is that this area is attached to the house but not heated. The garage never goes below 32 degrees but tends to hover in the 40's and low 50's all winter. This keeps the plant dormant but the plants never freeze. Watering is needed, but not too much or too often.
Any gardening expert will tell you, (contrary to what you may believe) that pruning encourages new growth just when the plant is trying to go dormant and new growth doesn't have enough time to harden before the first frost and freezing temperatures hit. Pruning at this time of year will severely weaken the plants.
As a general rule, prune spring-blooming trees immediately after they flower. Prune trees that bloom in the summer or fall in late winter or early spring before the end of their dormancy. Routine pruning of dead or dying branches can be done at any time.