Some perennials, like hostas, peonies and daylilies, need to be pruned in fall to avoid winter damage. Plants like these should be pruned after the first few frosts in late fall or early winter. Other perennials like mums and coneflowers are better off being pruned in spring just before new growth comes in.
Q: When is the best time to cut back in the fall? A: “When they start to look too ratty for you and before the fresh new growth begins,” says Sarah. For plants that are frost-sensitive, wait until after the plants have gone through several hard frosts to ensure they're dormant before cutting back.
Fertilize your plants, shrubs, trees and lawn to stimulate root growth, which will help your plants survive the winter and recover earlier in the springs. Fertilize perennials in the early fall for extended life. Fertilize trees and shrubs in the late fall to give them a boost before the winter.
No matter which fall gardening project you choose, be sure to make plant roots super-happy by using Miracle-Gro® Potting Mix (for containers) or Miracle-Gro® Garden Soil for Vegetables & Herbs (for in-ground).
Water and Feed Your Perennials
You can easily water and feed at the same time with Miracle-Gro® Liquafeed®. When watering, avoid perennials' leaves to prevent disease, and aim for a soil consistency that is neither too wet nor too dry.
It's important to cut back foliage in the fall to protect flowering plants from disease and give them a clean start for regrowth as winter starts to turn into spring. However, there are some plants you can keep around through the winter since they benefit wildlife and still offer visual interest for your home.
Perennial Flowers: Most perennial plants do not suffer frost damage and do not need to be covered. Frost sensitive perennials include Hostas and Bleeding Hearts. They should be covered to protect their foliage and flowers. Cover any blooming or budded up perennials.
Some perennials keep their leaves through winter, like spring-blooming groundcovers, Heucheras, Hellebores, ferns. These are trickier. Spring groundcovers, like Candytuft and Basket of Gold should be sheared after blooming. Ferns and Heucheras should be cut back in late winter before new growth starts.
Thoroughly Water plants if it's not going to rain before the freezing temperatures arrive. It may sound illogical. However, a moist ground stays warmer than dry soil. Watering the night before the freeze comes will insulate the root structure of the grass and plants and decreases the potential for cold injury.
Many gardeners cut back their perennials much too soon. There are nuances specific to certain perennials that dictate whether it is better to cut them back in fall or spring, but the general rule I like to follow is to only cut back perennials that start looking bad in fall.
Transplant perennials when the weather is cool, even a little rainy, if possible. Early spring and fall care are best times for transplanting. Then the weather is cooler and the plants are not using as much water. “However, don't move or transplant perennials while they are in bloom,” he says.
Mulching Tender Perennials
As with extra mulch, place the protective layer late in the fall season and remove it in early spring. A 6- to 8-inch-layer should be adequate for most perennials.
Hostas should be cut back in late fall. Healthy hosta leaves can be left on the plant in early fall to capture much-needed energy, but all leaves should be trimmed off after the first frost to deter slugs and other pests from making your hosta their winter home.
Start the winterizing process by mulching around landscape plants. Mulch helps insulate soil and prevent frost heave, a condition that occurs when soil repeatedly freezes and thaws—and pushes plants out of soil. When frost heave occurs, plant crowns and roots are exposed to freezing air and drying winds.
Check for other parts such as stems and roots. If the stems are still green and firm on the inside, then you still have a chance of saving the plant. However, if the roots and stems of the dying plant are squishy and frail or brittle, then it is too late to save the plant.
Begonia, Brugmansia, Colocasia, Gardenia, Pelargonium, standard fuchsia and will enjoy the better light levels in a heated conservatory during winter which may not be available in the house.
After “how?", the second most-asked question we get about pruning is “when?” (Or, "Can I prune this now?") The rule of thumb is to prune immediately after bloom for flowering shrubs, in late winter or early spring for non-blooming shrubs (particularly for heavy pruning), and not after mid-August for any shrubs.
Japanese yew (Taxus cuspidata) is a good choice for an outdoor winter plant because it's an evergreen that keeps its leaves on its branches all winter long. It's drought-tolerant and thrives in both full and partial sun. Hardy to Zone 4, Japanese yews can survive harsh winters.
Broadcasting a slow release fertilizer is the best choice to meet season-long plant nutrient requirements, but you can also use a balanced fertilizer such as 20-5-10. If your soil test indicates that you do not need phosphorous, choose a product such as 20-0-10.
Standard Miracle-Gro “all purpose plant food” fertilizers are synthetic and should not be used in organic gardens.
You can sprinkle the all-purpose plant food around your plants. However, you should apply the granules on top of the soil and wait for absorption. This article helps you understand how to use miracle fertilizers and the effects of overusing them.