ALWAYS prune back to or just above a growing point (branch or bud) or to the soil line. NEVER leave a stem or branch stub. NEVER top a tree to “rejuvenate” growth.
Let's discuss the importance of pruning. While a tree will not directly die from a lack of pruning, neglecting the structure of a tree can impact its long-term health. Lack of pruning in a tree can lead to structural defects. These structural defects can result in significant portions of a tree failing.
Tree pruning involves the removal of live branches, as well as dead, diseased, and damaged branches for the health of the tree, while tree trimming only involves the removal of branches that interfere in some way.
An improper cut like a flush cut (cutting too close to the trunk) or a stub cut (cutting too far from the trunk) can cause irreversible damage to a tree. A flush cut removes the branch collar and leaves a large wound in the side of the tree that won't heal properly.
The cut is the key to good pruning. As a rule, always cut back to a branch, twig or bud that is pointed in the direction you want the tree to grow. This method encourages controlled, healthy new growth. If you're unsure whether to remove a branch, don't cut.
Municipalities and homeowners often remove the lower limbs for pedestrian and vehicular clearance or to let the sun shine in for grass to grow. Mature trees, especially evergreens, benefit when healthy lower branches are left intact. Removing large limbs can increase the risk of decay.
Late summer or early fall pruning causes vigorous re-growth of tissue, which in some cases may not harden off by the time winter arrives, leading to possible cold damage to the new growth.
Depending on its size, age, and condition, no more than 5% to 20% of a tree's crown should be removed at one time. The main reason for this is to avoid the tree's stress response of producing lots of suckering branches that are weak and may develop in the wrong places in a tree's crown or along its trunk.
The 1/3 rule involves cutting about 1/3 of wood during any pruning activity. This moderate pruning practice is a balanced approach to thinning out shrubs to stimulate new growth. The plant loses a good amount of stems, usually on the top section, allowing more light and air to enter the inside of the plant.
You should only remove 10 to 20 percent of the tree branches from the edge of the canopy. Large trees benefit from removing end portions of limbs between 1 to 4 inches in diameter. Small ornamental landscape trees and fruit trees can be thinned by removing smaller limbs between ¼ to ½ inch thick.
Generally, the best time to prune or trim trees and shrubs is during the winter months. From November through March, most trees are dormant which makes it the ideal time for the following reasons: Trees are less susceptible to insects or disease.
If your tree has a less severe problem, one of the best times to remove trees is during the dormant season, between late winter and early spring. Here's why. Dormant trees are leafless and lighter, so it's much easier for a certified arborist to cut and handle the branches.
Wait till after the leaves fall. Mild fall weather may have you thinking about pruning shrubs and trees. But it's better to wait till late winter, or, at least, after leaves have fallen.
Summer is an excellent time for restorative pruning. Summer pruning tasks may include removing dead, damaged or diseased branches. Many people think of pruning as a winter task, but there are a number of great reasons to prune your trees and shrubs in summer.
Any gardening expert will tell you, (contrary to what you may believe) that pruning encourages new growth just when the plant is trying to go dormant and new growth doesn't have enough time to harden before the first frost and freezing temperatures hit. Pruning at this time of year will severely weaken the plants.
In general, avoid pruning landscape trees in mid- to late summer (July, August and September), unless it's very light, because you can induce an off-season growth spurt, which can leave some species, such as ficus, vulnerable to freeze damage.
Not using the proper techniques can damage the health of your tree and can even lead to disease or premature death. In general, don't cut too close to the trunk. These cuts are too big and can delay the sealing of the wound. Don't cut too far from the surface of the trunk, either.
Pruning sealers, also called pruning paint, are products that claim to “aid the healing of pruning cuts” or “minimize sap loss.” Most often, these products are petroleum-based, but some even contain asphalt. Alternatively, there are natural tree sealers with ingredients like collagen and aloe gel.
In pruning, there are three primary types of pruning cuts, thinning cuts, reduction cuts, and heading cuts, each giving different results in growth and appearance.
Without leaves, the cut tree cannot produce food for the growth of its roots. However, the roots might have enough nutrients left to allow the growth of sprouts from the roots or from the leftover stump. If a sprout develops enough leaves, it can eventually grow back into a tree.
While pruning, avoid cutting too close to the node as it can get damaged. However, don't leave more than 1 cm above the nodes. It can compromise the shape of your plant. While pruning, you need to use good-quality pruning tools.