When bottom watering potted plants, the key is in the timing. Push your finger into the soil between the wall of the container and the stem of the plant. If you push down to the second knuckle and still don't feel moist soil, it's time to water the plant.
All you need to do is set the potted plant (be sure it has drainage holes) into the bathtub, sink, or another container that's filled with a couple inches of water. After 15 to 20 minutes, the plant will have absorbed the exact amount it needs—never too little or too much.
This could lead to overwatering unless you leave the pot in the water for long enough. But then the soil might have a hard time draining, which can mean your plant is sitting in soggy soil for too long. Not good! With a well-draining pot and aerated soil, overwatering shouldn't be an issue when bottom watering.
Gardening FAQ
The problem with your soil resisting hydration is not uncommon. It usually begins with the soil being watered incompletely and then drying more than it should. After that it can become hydrophobic and actually repel water! The ingredient in the soil that is causing that problem is peat.
The downside of bottom watering plants
In terms of plant health, there aren't a lot of drawbacks to watering plants from the bottom. However, one consideration would be that continual bottom watering could lead to a build up of minerals and excess salts in the growing medium, especially if you're using tap water.
These plants are prime candidates for bottom watering: Plants with hairy or fuzzy leaves, such as African violets, or plants that don't like getting their leaves wet, such as snake plants, Philodendron verrucosum, and P. micans.
Bottom watering assures evenly moisturized soil, which is a must for many plants. Healthy root development. Not that top watering doesn't promote healthy roots, but bottom watering promotes even spread and growth towards the base of the pot, which is what's most natural to plants.
Hard-packed clay soils and even garden soils can become crusted and resist wetting, letting water run off instead of absorbing it. To re-wet, repeatedly sprinkle the surface lightly, making sure there is no run off. Covering the surface with a mulch such as straw, leaves, wood chips, or compost will also help.
Give the soil a squeeze to check for moistness. If you squeeze and the soil sticks together then it is moist. But if the soil crumbles or it remains in a loose pile as you squeeze then the ground needs more water. Now drop the soil and brush the soil off your hands.
"Bottom watering prevents overwatering".
This is one of the very best ways to prevent overwatering and root rot, as excess water will simply drain out of the holes and can then be poured away.
Bottom watering doesn't flood the soil surface, so the topsoil tends to dry out faster using this method. It would be better not to allow water to penetrate all the way to the surface; but, even so, bottom watering will still help reduce your gnat population.
“Bottom-watering” is when you put your parched plant in a bucket of water and let it soak up what it needs through the drainage hole. (It's very fun. “Like a magic trick,” said Adams.) This keeps the top of your soil dry and therefore gnat-egg-proof.
Possible Salt Buildup Problem. A common problem with bottom watering is the buildup of excess salt on the soil or sides of clay pots. This happens over time when tap water is used instead of distilled or filtered water.
As a general rule of thumb, most of our customers who are utilizing the most common types of spray heads can comfortably water their lawn for 10 minutes at a time. If you're running rotor heads, you can bump that time up to 20 minutes.
It is ideal to water lawns about one inch of water per week. To determine how long you need to water to get one inch, place a plastic container in your yard and set a timer. On average, it will take 30 minutes to get a half inch of water. So, 20 minutes, three times per week will give a lawn about an inch of water.
The Finger Test. Simply stick your finger into the dirt as far down as you can and see if the soil is dry. When you remove your finger, any soil sticking to it indicates moisture. When your finger comes out relatively clean, it's time to water.
Finger Test
If, soil falls loosely off your fingers and is dry to the touch, then water.
Just dip your index finger into the soil near the stem of your plant up to about your first knuckle. If the soil feels dry, and your finger comes out clean, then it's probably time for some water.
A combination of sand, silt, and clay particles, this soil absorbs water readily and is able to store it for use by plants. Loam absorbs water at a rate between 1/4 and 2 inches per hour. Sandy Soil, because it has very large spaces, absorbs water at a rate of more than 2 inches per hour.
Adding hydrated lime and compost will help absorb the water in your soil, and turning it all will help distribute the water in the waterlogged soil throughout your garden. If you're having issues with waterlogged soil, you're not alone!
Organic material, such as coconut coir, peat moss, or even compost, will absorb water, retaining moisture that plants can use during dry spells. Organic material also improves the structure, aeration and overall health of the soil, resulting in better long-term success for your garden.
Phosphorus potassium &Nitrogen are the essential nutrients to support root growth for plants. They encourage plants to put down a dense collection of new roots and strengthen existing roots as they develop. Phosphorus helps establish healthy root systems at the beginning of growth.
Got a cutting that's refusing to root or taking its sweet time? Add a Pothos! I'd heard of using willow as a natural rooting hormone, but didn't know Pothos has this 'super power' too. Just pop a Pothos cutting in with the water with your slow-to-grow cuttings and it helps speed up root development.
Chances are if you have shallow grass roots, you're likely not watering correctly. To encourage deep root development, practice deep and infrequent irrigation.