The only thing that kills algae is CHLORINE (or your sanitizing product, or one of the copper-based algaecides on the market). You need to raise the level of your chlorine – shock the pool – and maintain that high level until all the algae is dead. This may take 3 to 4 days. RUN THE FILTER 24 HOURS A DAY.
To kill green algae, add a chlorine-based shock to the pool. Give the pool a thorough brushing and run your filter to remove the dead algae from the water. After you've killed the algae, you'll need to add a clarifying product (flocculant) that will cause the skeletal remains to sink to the bottom.
The use of baking soda in pools can spot treat algae
No one ever wants to see algae build up in their swimming pool. It can turn any backyard pool murky green or cause unsightly black spots on the walls and floor of any swimming pool.
Light Green or Teal Pool Water:
This means there's a low amount of algae in your water and you won't have to use a hefty amount of chlorine shock. In this case, you should double shock your swimming pool water. To double shock, you will need to add 2 pounds for every 10,000 gallons of water.
When the levels are properly balanced, chlorine will keep the algae at bay, but the water will slowly begin to turn green as the algae take over if there's not enough. But be careful—adding too much chlorine in pool water can cause those metals to oxidize and turn the pool a different shade of green.
Pool water turns green because of algae in the water. Algae can grow rapidly, particularly when it's warm like Summer, which is why it can surprise you overnight. This generally comes down to an imbalance or lack of chlorine in the water.
ADD POOL CLARIFIER
The change in your pool water colour means that you have successfully eliminated the algae and can now clean it out of your pool. If your water is still green, wait another 24 hours and redo the steps from Days 1 and 2.
If the pool is still very cloudy or green, you may need to shock it to make it safe to swim in again. First, make sure that the filter system is working properly and the chemicals are still at the proper levels. Next, mix up your chlorine shock (hyperchlorinate) treatment.
Rainwater itself does not cause algae, but it can provide the right environment for algae. Rain will bring phosphates, nitrates and other organic contaminants into the pool. As we discussed earlier, rain also reduces chlorine levels.
You cannot overshock a swimming pool or add too much. Adding too much shock or overshocking your pool will kill off algae. The negative of adding too much shock is it will upset the chemical balance of your pool.
Pools can immediately turn green after shocking when they have metals like copper in the water. These metals oxidise when exposed to high levels of chlorine which makes the pool water turn green. Adding a metal control product such as Zodiac Metal Remover will help to restore the pool water.
Algaecide should be used after each shock treatment, so it has a better chance to support your chlorine as it works its magic. Be sure to shock your pool first, then when the chlorine levels of your pool return to normal, add the correct amount of algaecide to several places around your pool while your pump is running.
The presence of too much algaecide can lead to a foamy pool water. Small bubbles will begin to be produced as the water is pushed through the return jet and back into the pool. Do not confuse these bubbles and foam with another common problem, which is air in your pool lines.
Bleach, like any other kind of pool treatment, is best used in specific concentrations -- that is, you'll want to be able to detect a certain amount of chlorine in your pool water. Too little, and you won't effectively sanitize your pool water and surfaces. Too much, and your pool water might become too harsh to use.
Household bleach, Clorox and liquid chlorine can all be used to sanitize a pool. They are all types of chlorine. Household bleaches such as Clorox usually contain about 5-6% available chlorine, about half that of pool liquid chlorine. Household bleaches often have unwanted fragrances and colors.
The solution to maintaining a clear pool is to use readily available liquid bleach as your chlorine source. Chlorine bleach, as discussed above, is not bound to a stabilizer, so when you add chlorine bleach to the pool, it will go right to work killing microbes and sanitizing.
With heavy rainfall, the chemicals in your pool can become unbalanced; your pH levels altered and your chlorine, salt and mineral content diluted. In addition, leaves, dirt and algae spores get delivered into your pool water and can decompose, causing phosphates to be deposited into your water.
With a salt water system, you put salt into your pool instead of chlorine. ... The downside is it can also make it easier for algae to grow if you let your pool chemistry slip even a little.
The green is probably iron. Don't add more chlorine. Add a quart or two of good sequestrant. Brush the pool really well multiple times and then add the sequestrant.
Should the green be due to pollen, there may be little to do in the way of minimizing the discoloration short of erecting a building around the pool. Fortunately, assuming there are no allergies to the pollen, it is safe to swim in a pool with that as the cause for green water.
Clarifier does take some time to work, unlike flocculent. It usually takes 3-5 days. From the time you put the clarifier in the water, you'll need to filter your water for at least the first 24-48 hours, then as much as possible. Note that if you have algae, you should take care of that before using clarifier.