Reels should be stored indoors on a hard, dry surface. If the cable needs to be stored outside, the reels should be placed on a hard surface, preferably in a well-drained area. The cable's exposed end should be resealed with plastic, weatherproof caps or tapes.
Cable Storage
When storing your cables, try to keep them either hanging or laying in a relaxed position as much as possible. Cable ties come in very handy for keeping your cables neatly organized and separated, especially if you have them in a pile or gig bag.
Roll them and seal them in poly heat-seal bags so they don't tangle. Put the bagged cables inside plastic storage boxes or inside XXL sized Ziploc storage bags per class of cable. Don't overlook the importance of properly labeling.
Cables all have memory, which relates to how they are wrapped and stored (the sheathing will respond to how it has been bent and wrapped previously). If you wrap XLR cables like grandpa taught you to do with rope/cords, these cables will have bad memories.
Direct burial of cables involves excavating trenches into which the cables are installed on a bed of selected sand or cement bound sand with the use of winches or power rollers.
First, transmission lines intended for open-air use aren't suitable for burial underground, as they produce heat that can't dissipate through soil. For this reason, underground lines must be insulated – adding another step to the process and an additional expense.
The fines for digging without first calling 811 vary. In California, for example, you could face up to a $50,000 penalty if you cut a utility line. In Utah, there's a $5,000 penalty for each line damaged, up to a maximum of $100,000—and you can be fined $500 just for digging without calling 811.
In a nutshell, if you purchased a cable manufactured to international standards and wired indoors according to proper guidelines, your cables are generally expected to last based on a design life of at least 20-30 years.
While zip ties are capable of securely holding lightweight wires together, they may not be suitable for supporting heavier loads. Attempting to use zip ties to suspend or bear the weight of cables, fixtures, or equipment can lead to overstretching or breakage, posing a risk of damage or injury.
Electric cables often feel warm in normal use, this is to be expected. Copper and aluminium conductors, like all metals, have an inherent electrical resistance, so they cannot be perfect electrical conductors. A cable with a current passing through its wires encounters electrical resistance and will produce heat.
Whatever you do, cables should never go in the garbage. They contain metals like copper that make them hazardous waste if they're put in the trash.
Bottom line, unplug cables when not in use. Not only can that prevent these sorts of unexpected power draws, but it also reduces the chances of the ports or connectors suffering accidental damage.
Store Unused Cables in a Shoe Rack.
2. Roll up your cable - loosely. When you're storing your cable, don't bundle it up in a big tangle - knots are bad news - but don't roll it up too tightly either. Instead of winding the cable around your hand, hold one end and create loose circular coils.
Cables should be handled and stored with care. If not, it may lead to damaged or broken cable drums and may even cause visible damage to the surface or worse, damage deep inside the actual cable.
I repurposed old circular plastic takeout containers, as they are the right shape for coiled up cables. We now have a row of easy to access containers bearing legends like HDMI, USB-C to USB-C, USB-A to Micro USB, and so on. Ziploc bags or even toilet roll tubes can work too.
You want the strands to be as dense and tightly packed as possible with a slight factory twist before the crimp, but you don't want to overdo it. If the wires are deformed from a twist or kink, it'll negatively affect the crimp's quality and the connection.
Bundling can be especially hazardous above the electrical panel, where many wires converge and the loads are concentrated. It's a good idea to visually check for bundles of wires throughout your home, Black recommends.
In the codebook, section 334.30 states that flat cables must be stapled on the flat side of the cable, not on the edge. 2 This provides a tight wire connection to the stud and prevents any damage to the wire sheathing.
How long does the electrical wire last? The copper wire used for electrical wiring today can last 100 years. The problem is with the protective sheathing or insulation, which can wear down a lot sooner. It's the type of sheathing that determines how long the wiring lasts, which is usually 50 to 70 years.
Essentially, the longer the cord length, the more electrical current is lost to whatever the heavy-duty extension cable is powering. For cord length between 25 to 50 feet, load and wattage for AWG-rated cables at 110 volts are: 10 AWG: 19 to 20 amps at 2200 watts. 12 AWG: 16 to 18 amps at 1980 watts.
Exposure to extreme temperatures, humidity, or even dust can corrode connectors or degrade cable insulation over time.
Usually there is a minimum of 18 inches underneath the surface that utilities are buried, but we'll go into this more. Electric and communications lines fall around the range between a foot and a half to 2 feet of ground cover for easier access and maintenance. Gas lines typically fall around 3 feet in depth.
If you or your contractor did not request that 811 mark the utilities before digging, you are responsible for paying the costs of the damaged gas line. It still might be worth fighting the penalty, though. It's almost always worth fighting the penalty for hitting the gas line, as some companies back down immediately.
You will get a bill from the town, city, or county that owns the pole and they will send you verification via a receipt or estimate as to how much it cost to replace. Since you chose to drive around California with no insurance, you are going to be personally responsible for the damage.