Unfinished wood furniture means the piece of furniture has been put together by craftsman, but still needs a finish (such as stain or varnish) to be applied.
Untreated Wood means any wood that has not been treated with any chemical, stain, preservative, paint, oil, or adhesive.
Paint Or Seal Unfinished Furniture
Bare wood, when left unfinished, keeps your furniture with a natural wood look but the risk is exposing it to harsh elements, even if it's indoors, such as light, dust, moisture and water damage, making it more susceptible to stains, warping and cracking.
The difference between the two is that pressure treated lumber will resist the elements better than untreated due to chemical preservatives added, and so will maintain its integrity in conditions that would cause normal wood to rot.
Since unfinished flooring is basically raw wood, it's like working with a clean slate. In contrast, prefinished flooring comes straight from the manufacturer with stain and several coats of finish already applied, so there's no changing it.
Unfortunataly there's very little to do but wait and see. Whether it warps or discolors or both will be revealed in the next 2 or three days. What is going to happen is the wood grain will be "raised". All this means is the fibers that make up that particular section of wood that got wet will swell from re-hydrating.
Second, since bare wood readily absorbs water, wet cleaning methods are considered unsuitable, thus cleaning options are limited. Water and solvents can quickly swell wood fibres, raise the grain and cause unwanted dimensional change; they can also mobilize surface dirt, drawing it below the surface to cause staining.
Paint protects the wood and also seals the tiny cracks and gaps that you might not even know exist in your building's exterior. These small blemishes start to get bigger if they're left without any treatment. Sooner or later, you'll have to deal with a much larger and more expensive problem.
The longer lifespan of pressure-treated lumber is one of the most significant advantages. Although its lifespan is short compared to composite materials, it will last much longer than untreated wood. Depending on its use, pressure-treated lumber can last up to 40 years when properly cared for.
Use pressure treated wood in any situation where there's direct contact between the wood and anything that could supply moisture. This means posts in contact or buried underground obviously, but it also includes any lumber touching concrete or masonry since it's porous and wicks water like a sponge.
If you leave furniture raw without applying a new coat of wax or poly you are taking a risk of your furniture drying out, cracking, swelling or staining. To limit wood damage, preserve furniture AND keep it looking natural you'll want to seal raw wood with Liming or Cerusing wax.
All unfinished wood or bare wood surfaces should always be primed prior to painting. This goes for both interior and exterior paint projects. The reason you cannot skip bare wood priming is that wood is porous and has a grainy surface. Because primer contains high solids, it helps fill grains in the new wood.
Wood can Start to Rot in 1-6 months If:
Wood is untreated. The wooded area is sitting in water. Water and/or air space is hot & humid.
Cedar wood projects typically last more than 20 years without splitting, rotting, or warping. White oak and teak are also long lasting woods that are resistant to decay, twisting, cracking, or warping.
Unprotected wood can begin to rot within 1-2 years depending on the environment. The structural integrity of untreated wood can be greatly reduced within weeks due to termites and certain marine organisms. Without chemical treatments, wood can be quickly consumed when exposed to flames.
But building code dictates where you can use treated wood in applications — usually where there is risk of excessive moisture. Generally speaking, any wood used in outdoor projects should be pressure-treated.
Some say that untreated 2×4's can last up to two years before showing signs of rot and others say it can last even longer. When deciding if you should you use an untreated 2×4 it depends greatly on the application, how much weather and sun it's exposed to and if it's making ground contact.
Use an outdoor-rated finish like polyurethane, epoxy, lacquer, or varnish. Make a natural oil finish with one part tung or linseed oil, one part mineral spirits, and one part polyurethane. Use a stain sealant combo that gives your wood some color and a durable finish all in one.
If you are deciding to paint bare wood, you should seal all knots (spot prime) with a shellac based primer. Shellac based primers are great for sealing wood knots and sap streaks. They do carry a pungent odour, but dry very quickly and will not let the knot bleed through the top (finish) coat.
If you don't properly prepare the wood, moisture damage could destroy the wood, or natural tannins may bleed through the paint. Wood preparation is time consuming, but it's not overly difficult. With the right know-how, a novice painter can paint untreated wood surfaces for an even, clean, professional appearance.
Seasoning or Air-Drying Wood: The One-Year Rule
In fact, expect most types of wood to take about one year per inch of thickness to dry out. If it's a two-inch log, that means you'll need to let it sit outdoors for two whole years before it's dry enough to efficiently burn.
Even loose lumber not treated in any way will be fine; provided it has an opportunity to dry out before covering with drywall. To minimize and eliminate any potential damage to the material, it is important to remove any standing water on the sub floor. This will help the water to dissipate quicker.
Lab experiments have recorded that dry rot spores can germinate approximately seven to ten days after the wood has become damp enough. Older spores can take longer to germinate. As mentioned earlier, though, it can take a long while for signs of dry rot to appear after germination.