Yes, aerating prior to seeding is beneficial, as it helps to relieve soil compaction. Grass roots struggle to grow in dense hard soil, so aerating or applying Love Your Soil will greatly improve your lawn's ability to establish.
It's most effective to overseed directly after you aerate, because your soil is revitalized after the aeration, and all the little holes in it will provide the perfect place for the new grass seeds to sprout. Like we said before, we recommend aerating and overseeding in the Fall or Spring for the best results.
You don't need to. But you need some way to increase seed-soil contact. It can be through dethatching or topdressing if you don't aerate.
Comments Section The two have nothing to do with each other. It's better to seed close to aeration so the seed gets into the holes but it's not detrimental. Aeration can be done on it's own without seeding. I would mow and bag clippings the same day you seed, not give it 2 days to grow before seeding.
Adding compost improves growing conditions for lawns. For new lawns: Before you establish a lawn with seed, add a 1- to 2-inch layer of compost to the work area. Rake or rototill the compost into the soil.
It's best to fertilize right after aerating and seeding, allowing the fertilizer to sink into the aeration holes ensuring deeper soil penetration. Proper fertilization encourages a lush, green, healthy lawn that stands out and offers a beautiful outdoor space for relaxation and play.
Another great time to topdress with compost is when overseeding a lawn. Applying compost and seeds at the same time will improve germination and moisture retention.
After aeration, your lawn will benefit from a deep watering session. This allows the soil to absorb moisture more effectively and aids in the recovery process. Watering immediately after aeration helps the soil particles settle, closing the holes created by the aeration process.
Sandy and loam soils don't need regular core aeration because the soils already have oxygen circulating through them. Plus, if you aerate your sandy or loamy soil too often, you'll weaken the soil. Clay soils, for example, need aeration every year or every few years depending on how compacted the ground is.
Even though it's recommended to let the cores of soil naturally decompose after the aeration process is done, some people still don't like letting them sit in their yard. If you don't want to wait for them to decompose on their own and get absorbed into your lawn, then you can break them apart with a rake.
Within 48 hours after you aerate you should over seed, fertilize, and water your lawn. The seed, fertilizer, and water will have the best chance to get down into the holes made by the aerator if applied soon after aeration.
After the mowing has taken place it is time to start the process of dethatching. That means raking the lawn in two different directions. This allows for the dead grass to be removed from different angles. Often grass, when it has died falls in different directions and raking in only one will not complete the process.
It gets to work, breaking down the thatch layer and allowing the grass's roots to breathe. Liquid aerators have proven to be superior to core aeration. Its effects last longer, and it doesn't leave behind ugly cores on the lawn.
You want to aerate the lawn when your grass is in its peak growing period so it can recover quickly—think early spring or fall for cool-season grasses, and late spring through early summer for warm-season grasses.
Prepare Your Soil
Remove large rocks and debris, fill in low spots, and if your soil is compacted, work it over with a tiller. Your goal is to break the soil down to pea- or marble-sized particles, which will serve as a welcome mat for the grass seed.
Homeowners often wonder how to overseed lawn without aerating, and if it's a good idea. The answer is that you can overseed effectively without aerating. As we've just mentioned, it's all about seed-to-soil contact. You can get good results without aerating by simply clearing and raking the soil before applying seed.
When the grass is dormant: Aerating during the dormant season, when the grass is not actively growing, can be less effective and may cause unnecessary stress to the grass.
Optimal Aeration
Spacing: Aeration plugs should be about 3-6 inches apart. This ensures effective aeration without excessively damaging the lawn. Disposal: Plugs should just be left on the lawn where they're pulled up and deposited from the aerator.
Aeration and overseeding will help to reduce weeds.
Crabgrass grows in thin areas, nutsedge pops up in thin/low spots, and broadleaf weeds spread where there is little desirable grass.
Mistake: Improper handling of equipment and poor application
Aerating at the wrong time or in the wrong way can actually put more stress on your yard. Not only does this worsen soil compaction, but it could lead to your lawn looking and feeling even worse than before all your DIY aeration efforts.
How long until I'll see healthy grass? Whether you fertilize and aerate together or just fertilize your lawn, you should see results within six to eight weeks.
Before adding lime to an established lawn, aerate the lawn with a core aerator to open up space for the lime to move into the soil. Next, using a drop or rotary spreader (never lay down lime by hand), apply the limestone to your lawn.
While you don't want to bury the seeds deeply, they do need good soil contact. Use the back of a plastic leaf rake to gently work the seeds into the top 1/8 inch of soil. Make short, light strokes to avoid redistributing the seeds unevenly.
If you didn't feed your new grass when it was planted, apply a lawn fertilizer designed for new grass, like Scotts® Turf Builder® Starter® Food for New Lawns, 2 to 4 weeks after seeding. It will provide the right nutrients in the proper proportions that new grass plants need to grow in thick and develop strong roots.
Use a "mist – lightly water – deeply water" process like this: After seeding and fertilizing, you'll want to keep the top inch of soil moist until the seeds start to germinate (aka sprout). This means misting the area once a day, maybe twice if it's unusually hot out there—but don't let the area get soggy.