Installing a pool cover will reduce your water loss that occurs when the pool isn't in use. A pool cover reduces the amount of UV light coming into contact with the water. This is an important advantage as the pool chemical chlorine is degraded when exposed to UV light.
It's also important for the life of pool accessories too. For example, a pool cover is so efficient at reducing the amount of chlorine needed, that the chlorine production on the chlorinator should be turned down by two thirds, so it is only producing around one third as much chlorine as when the pool is uncovered.
Covering a pool when it is not in use is the single most effective means of reducing pool heating costs. Savings of 50%–70% are possible. Pool covers on indoor pools not only can reduce evaporation but also the need to ventilate indoor air and replace it with unconditioned outdoor air.
If your water's pH is too high, it hinders the chlorine's ability to efficiently clean the pool. A water pH level that is too low causes the chlorine to dissipate more quickly. Therefore you'll need to add more chlorine to accomplish the task.
Raise the Level of Pool Chlorine
Raising pool chlorine can be much easier than trying to lower chlorine levels. Simply adding chlorine in the form of chlorine tablets, granular chlorine, liquid shock or powder shock will increase the total amount of chlorine within the pool.
"Shocking” refers to the process of adding chlorine or non-chlorine pool chemicals to the water in order to raise the "free chlorine” level. The goal is to raise this level to a point where contaminants such as algae, chloramines and bacteria are destroyed.
Cyanuric Acid (CYA), also called stabilizer or conditioner, protects chlorine from sunlight.
In the simplest of terms, a pool conditioner or stabilizer helps your chlorine stay in the water longer. In other words, it prevents drastic chlorine loss. More specifically, it binds to chlorite ions (your free chlorine), making them impervious to the sun's rays.
So while a solar cover won't actually 'turn your pool green', it will warm your water by up to 8 degrees, so if the other conditions are right, adding a solar cover can easily accelerate algae growth, very rapidly. You need to get the water balance in your pool right before putting the cover back on.
We recommend it, yes. A pool cover does much more than just cover your pool in the winter. It can keep heat in your pool, keep leaves out of the pool, and save your chemicals and water from evaporating.
Conserves Water
A covered pool conserves water by losing less due to evaporation. This means you won't be filling up your pool as often as you did when you were cover-less. If you live in a drought area, using less water is the smart way to go.
Pool covers can be used on indoor and outdoor pools, as well as in-ground and above-ground pools, of almost any size or shape. Using a pool cover can prevent up to 95 percent of pool water evaporation.
Keep Water off the Top of your Solar Pool Blanket
The water on top of your solar pool cover will evaporate and pull the heat through the blanket and actually cool the pool. Thus after it has rained, you need to roll up the solar pool blanked and drain the rain water off.
Cyanuric acid, or CYA, is a stabilizer that partially blocks sunlight on chlorine. If you have low pH and stabilizer, the most common product to use is Cyanuric Acid. The way it works is by forming a bond with the chlorine and preventing it from breaking down under the UV light.
You should only add stabilizer if your levels are below 30ppm. Usually, all you have to do is check the level of stabilizer (cyanuric acid) in your pool every week to judge whether it's doing the job or not.
Liquid Chlorine has the shortest shelf life of all your pool chemicals, losing up to 50% or half of its potency six months from when it was first opened and up to 90% after a year.
Here's a general rule of thumb: For every 10 degrees Fahrenheit above 80 degrees Fahrenheit, twice as much chlorine is needed in the pool to maintain an adequate free-chlorine level. This is more important for spas, which are regularly operated at higher temperatures.
Your Salt System and Winter Temperatures
For most Pentair Intellichlor systems, the setting is the water temperature dropping below 52 degrees. When the sensors note the water temperature dropping below that value, the system will effectively shut off and stop their Chlorine production.
If your total chlorine level is high, you will use a non-chlorine shock; if it is low, you will use a chlorinated shock. As a rule, you will need to raise free chlorine to 10 times your combined chlorine to hit what is known as “break point.” Therefore, it is good to deal with combined chlorine while it is still small.
Chlorine is a sanitizer, and (unless you use Baquacil products) is necessary for maintaining a clear and healthy pool. Shock is chlorine, in a high dose, meant to shock your pool and raise the chlorine level quickly.
A pool filter should be run for a minimum of 6 hours after shocking a swimming pool. This is to allow the filter to clean the water and give the shock enough time to fully mix with the pool water. Running the filter after shocking for 24 hours to 7 days is necessary if the pool has a large amount of algae.
If you test your pool water and can't get a chlorine level reading at all it may be due to a very high chlorine demand. A high chlorine demand is the inability to keep an adequate level of chlorine in the pool water even though the water appears to be balanced and properly maintained.
Free chlorine involves the amount of chlorine that's able to sanitize contaminants, while combined chlorine refers to chlorine that has combined directly with the contaminants. Total chlorine is basically the sum of free chlorine and combined chlorine.