Never paint the outside edge of the drawers all the way to the back, they will not fit into their slot when you are finished. We also tape off the inside of the top of the drawer; this guards against drips and makes for a neater edge.
Although it isn't common practice, painting the inside of your kitchen drawers is certainly possible. It is mostly a matter of style and personal preference. The interior of your drawer boxes will likely feature unpainted wood, but it is almost certainly finished.
Doors typically require a good amount of time, because you need to paint both sides and let them fully dry in between coats. You can begin with the back side of your cabinet doors. Apply one coat, wait 24 hours and then move on to your second coat of paint.
Use a full-size paint roller to coat doors, cabinet sides and removable shelves. Paint a broad surface, let it dry, then paint the edges. Or, paint the edges first and then immediately paint the broad surface.
Use the brush to cut in along the edges, push the paint into the corners, and leave out roller strokes. Use the roller to apply enamel paint to the large flat surface where possible. For the cabinet interior, apply the paint with a smooth-surface mini roller, which leaves a slightly bumpy, orange-peel texture.
Seal Edges
Start with applying a coat of clear acrylic sealant to all the open edges of the board furniture. For smaller and thinner areas, you can choose to apply drywall compounds with a fingertip. After the sealant is dry, sand the edges gently.
Start by brushing paint into the detailed areas, without going overboard. Catch any globs as soon as possible. Then, before loading your roller with paint, quickly go over the brush strokes on the raised areas. Now dip your roller in paint and roll it around on your paint tray to get it evenly coated, but only lightly.
There are two good reasons for this: One, finishing the inside of the case helps retard movement due to moisture exchange and two, finishing the insides of the drawers makes for a much nicer utility. The drawers are cleaner and more pleasant to use.
Refinishing or restoring a piece of furniture may leave you with metal drawer pulls that need a refresh. Spray painting drawer pulls is a quick way to renew them, but you can also paint them by hand. For a longer-lasting finish, prep the pulls before you paint.
While you could line drawers with yesterday's newspapers, there are so many other possibilities. Try leftover fabric, removable wallpaper, oilcloth, or even sheet metal (for utility drawers). You may have to cut your lining down to size. Measure the inside of the drawer to get the dimensions.
Rub paraffin on the meeting parts of drawers to keep them working smoothly. You'll find paraffin with the canning supplies in your local grocery store. In a pinch you can also use candles, bar soap or even dry spray lubricant.
Use a foam roller on the flat surfaces and a high quality angled brush on the beveled and raised sections. I chose a latex satin paint, but you can paint furniture in any finish you like. Satin, semi-gloss, or gloss will give you more of a polished look – satin the least shiny – gloss the most shiny.
Edge banding can be painted or stained. Since the edge banding is a wood veneer, if you get the edge banding that matches your wood type, your paint or stain should take to your edge-banding the same it takes to the rest of your plywood. The key is to get edge banding that matches your wood type.
Kitchen cabinets.
It's not necessary to caulk the seam between your kitchen cabinets and wall. If you do, it's for esthetics purposes only — the caulking isn't keeping your cabinets on the wall; the screws and bolts are.
But don't despair, you can make these gaps disappear fast and easy with a caulking gun and a tube of caulk. You can use a colored caulk matching either the cabinet or wall color or paint white caulk to give your kitchen a more detailed, seamless appearance.
Step 4: Paint the Doors and Drawers
Start with the backside and apply a smooth even coat. When it's dry, flip the door over and paint the front. Start with the detailed areas, making sure the primer doesn't pool in the corners, and feather out the edges. Then work on the larger, flat surfaces with a foam roller.
If you don't clean before sanding, contaminates (like cooking grease) will be pressed down into the wood. Contaminates will keep the soon be applied paint for sticking. You can remove the doors here in the process or wait until after you wash them down. It is totally up to you and situational dependent.
Sand Lightly Between Coats
Dust can settle in the paint or primer as it dries. For the smoothest final coat, sand between coats of primer or paint with 220-grit sandpaper or an extra-fine sanding sponge. Then vacuum and tack as usual before recoating.
If your cabinets are stained, apply at least two coats of quality primer. For me, there's nothing better than BIN, Zinsser's shellac-based pigmented primer. It dries fast and flat, without brush marks (unlike most oil-based primers). You can buy it at home and hardware stores, as well as online (view on Amazon).
Laminate doesn't play well with all primers and paints, only those specially formulated to adhere to its picky surface. If you opt for a primer, choose a bonding primer tenacious enough to stick to laminate (view example on Amazon), and then top it with an oil- or latex-based paint after the primer has cured.