Joe Lstiburek, an engineer and principal with Building Science Corp. in Westford, Mass., responds: Installing a vapor barrier on both sides of a wall is never a good idea in any climate.
In climates that are hot and humid, a vapor barrier should be installed on the warm side (for walls, this would be just beneath the exterior cladding, over the insulation). For very cold climates, the warm side is the interior, so the insulation should have a vapor barrier separating it from the interior wall.
In Most Cases, Attic Insulation Does Not Need To Provide A Vapor Barrier. The good news is that blown-in insulation should not need a vapor barrier. Blown-in is primarily used on the attic floor, and vapor barriers are not a concern for attics in our climate zone.
Because a vapor barrier is a low permeable barrier, it keeps moisture from passing through. This is beneficial to keep moisture away from a dry surface but will trap moisture behind it if installed on a water-damaged concrete wall, causing the wall to fail further.
With the insulation built into the plasterboard, there is no need for an additional installation process, saving time and money. One of the key benefits of insulated plasterboard is the option for foil-backed varieties, which serve as a built-in vapour barrier.
A Vapour Control Layer, or VCL for short, is a plastic layer that restricts the movement of warm, moist air from inside a property into the fabric of the building. VCLs prevent excess moisture entering a wall's cavity, behind the insulation.
When it comes to foil insulation, it's generally recommended to leave an air gap of at least 25mm (1 inch) between the foil layer and the surface it's installed on. This allows the foil to reflect radiant heat, rather than simply absorbing it.
“Without a vapor barrier, concrete will deteriorate much faster through water vapor intrusion which degrades the quality of the concrete over time and can lead to foundation and building failures, like Surfside Condominium Collapse in Miami, Florida,” says vapor barrier plastic sheeting expert and Americover account ...
Being an inert material, it is a non-viable food source for mold and will not support mold growth. Fiberglass insulation cannot fight the battle against moisture intrusion alone, however. Vapor barriers applied over the face of the insulation provide additional benefits in the fight against moisture.
The Cons of Vapor Barrier Installation
Although vapor barriers aim to prevent moisture from entering the structure, they can also trap moisture inside. If not properly installed or upheld, this could result in the proliferation of mold and other issues related to moisture.
For crawl space projecs that require a vapor barrier installed within walls, builders commonly use a thinner plastic sheeting option such as 6 mil, but for the best durability in the crawl space, our vapor barrier experts instead recommend choosing 8 mil plastic sheeting.
Polyisocyanurate (PIR) foam board insulation has a relatively low permeability, meaning it can resist the passage of moisture to a certain extent. However, it is not typically recommended to rely on PIR foam board insulation as a standalone vapour barrier.
Materials such as rigid foam insulation, reinforced plastics, aluminum, and stainless steel are relatively resistant to water vapor diffusion. These types of vapor retarders are usually mechanically fastened and sealed at the joints.
More than likely, installing an additional layer of poly over kraft facing won't cause any problems — it's no more risky than if the wall had only unfaced batts and poly — and the risk of using poly on the interior is relatively low in a cold climate like New York's.
In cold climates, the barrier goes on the warm (interior) side of the insulation. In hot, humid climates, it's placed on the cool (exterior) side. Under flooring: When installing wood flooring over concrete, a moisture barrier protects the wood from moisture damage.
Is DuPont™ Tyvek® a vapor barrier? No, DuPont™ Tyvek® is not a vapor barrier. It is made with unique material science to keep air and bulk water out while allowing moisture vapor inside walls to escape.
Joe Lstiburek, an engineer and principal with Building Science Corp. in Westford, Mass., responds: Installing a vapor barrier on both sides of a wall is never a good idea in any climate.
If you live in a mixed climate – hot and humid with several heating months in the winter, you probably need a vapor retarder. Specifically, if you live in climate zones 4C (marine), 5, 6, 7 and 8. Not sure your climate zone? You can check here.
On most projects where insulation meets the under-slab vapor barrier, we have found that the project teams elect to install their insulation first and to lay the vapor barrier over top. Various industry leaders have commented on the advantage of placing the vapor barrier directly beneath the slab.
Depending on where you live, the vapour barrier will either go on the inner surface of the insulation (if you live in a cold climate) or the outer surface of the insulation (if you live in a hot climate). It's safe to say that a vapour barrier will be needed for almost all projects.
Both are designed to keep moisture out of your home and can be made from various materials. But there are a few key differences, the most apparent being that moisture barriers are better at keeping out liquids, and vapor barriers are better at keeping out water in its gaseous state.
Vapor barrier materials are installed on the warm side of the insulation in a building assembly, as determined by climatic conditions. In warm climates, it will be on the exterior and in cold climates, it will be on the interior.
If you are wondering how to install the foil backed insulation on your walls here you have few tips to consider. if it is hot outside, the reflective part of your foil insulation must face outside. if it is freezing outside, the best orientation of the reflective part is inside.
NO, you can't use this method on a foiled-back plasterboard. The bond between the foil and the board isn't strong enough.
You actually must have a VOID, nothing in the air gap except air itself. So if you are installing under a roof or in a wall, you must create an air gap. It doesn't matter which side the air gap is on, the foil will work the same whether it is using reflectivity or emissivity to block the heat transfer.