The old method for installing ridge vents was to use the aluminum ridge vent or just aluminum strips, however, nowadays the preferred method is a shingle over ridge vent system.
A shingle-over vent is installed over the ridge of a roof and is covered over by asphalt shingle caps that match the surrounding roof shingles. An aluminum ridge vent has a mushroom-shaped profile combined with a wide flange on both sides that sits on top of the roof shingles.
Begin installing the ridge cap shingles at the end of the ridge that is opposite the prevailing wind direction. This ensures that the shingles overlap in a way that provides maximum protection against wind-driven rain.
The ridge of your roof is the very tippy top point, and this is a prime spot to install vents as all the hot air in your attic will naturally go to the top of your roof, and without anywhere to escape, it can get quite hot. Ridge vents are installed right on top of your roof vent before shingles are laid on top.
It is generally recommended to have a ridge vent that spans the entire length of a roof along the ridge. This is because a full-length ridge vent provides the most effective ventilation, allowing warm, moist air to escape evenly across the whole roof.
A roofing contractor would use 3-tab asphalt shingles as ridge capping to cut down their costs to win your business. If you're looking for the lowest price, you may think it's alright to use 3-tab shingles as ridge capping.
Your roof vents should be split evenly with half dedicated to air intake and half dedicated for air exhaust. That means that a 2,400-square-foot home with a roof that has a moisture barrier would need 8 square feet of roof vent.
Flashing should overlap the roof-covering material, but on asphalt shingle roofs, for aesthetic reasons, the part of the headwall flashing that extends down over asphalt shingles is often covered with a course of shingle tabs.
Nails, shingles, and the old vent will need to be removed.
A ridge cap is also a type of baffle used for ridge vents. A cap sits on the ridge vent itself and creates an overlapping shield to prevent water from getting in. Ridge caps also create the vent system pull that sucks fresh air into the attic or roof space and expels stale air.
○ The new underlayment should extend at least 4” (102 mm) to 6” (152 mm) to fold over the ridge and be inserted between the shingles and existing underlayment.
Ridge vents work best on simple, single-ridge roofs with a moderate pitch. If you have a steep or complex roof, other vent types may be more effective. You should also consider the climate. If you live in an area with lots of wind, rain, or snow, your roof may need additional protection.
Maybe. Just because you lose a shingle or two doesn't mean water will immediately drip from your ceiling. However, such a missing shingle could cause issues over time if the surrounding shingles deteriorate from exposure to water, wind and sunlight.
One of the most common issues with ridge vents is they can get clogged. Over time, debris such as leaves and twigs, can accumulate in the ridge vent openings, preventing proper airflow. Sometimes animals and birds also get in between the vents.
Here is how you do it: Step One: Install shingles as normal up to the base of the plumbing vent. Step Two: Place the flashing or boot onto the plumbing vent, so the base is resting on shingles. Momentarily lift the boot and apply sealant to hold the flashing in place.
Yes. Shingles should not extend more than 3/4” (19 mm) past the drip edge. If shingles overhang the edge of the roof by more than 3/4” (19 mm), then they are not supported and may crack and break off. In addition, the wind resistance at the roof edge may be compromised.
Should there be a gap between the roof and fascia? One of the main purposes of a fascia is to prevent moisture and animals from getting into your roof cavity, so you might be concerned after finding a gap between the fascia and the roof. But don't worry—this is perfectly normal.
For a home with 2000 square feet of attic floor space, you'll first divide 2000 by 300 (2000 ÷ 300 = 6.66). You need 6.66 square feet of attic ventilation. Since you want a balanced system, you divide by 2 so that half of the ventilation is intake and half is exhaust.
Unlike most other roof vents, the amount of ridge vent is calculated per linear foot. The standard ridge vent without a baffle is 4 feet long and covers 72 square inches of net free area. With that in mind, you'll need a total of 20' of ridge vent to ventilate a 1,500 square foot attic properly.
Debris, such as dirt, leaves, or animal nests, can accumulate in the ridge vent, obstructing airflow and reducing the effectiveness of the vents. Solution: Regular maintenance is key to preventing blockages. Remove any debris using a vacuum or brush, being careful not to damage the roof or the vent.
Install a ridge vent like the Certainteed filtered ridge vent. Using the correct roofing nails, install cap shingles over the ridge vent.
Due to their specialized design and construction, ridge cap shingles are usually more expensive. Regular shingles are often more affordable for covering large roof areas, but investing in quality ridge cap shingles can prevent leaks and extend the roof's lifespan, offering long-term savings on maintenance and repairs.