Propagation. To propagate a Pothos, take a cutting that is about 2-3 inches long and cut just below a node (where a leaf is attached to the stem), ensuring the cutting has at least one leaf attached. Place the cutting in water or moist soil, keeping it in a warm, bright area but out of direct sunlight.
Place the cuttings in water.
Place the glass in a warm-ish room in bright, indirect light (not direct sunlight). Change the water every few days so microbes don't affect growth.
Just pop a Pothos cutting in with the water with your slow-to-grow cuttings and it helps speed up root development. That's a big yes please. Although my Pothos aren't too pleased I found out about this, but talk about a perfect excuse to get more Pothos!
Place your plant cutting(s) in your glass vessel and put it in a spot that receives bright to moderate indirect light. Do not place in strong, direct light or super-low light.
The best time to propagate pothos is during their growing season -- which is spring to late summer. That being said, as long as they get plenty of indirect sunlight while they're growing and are planted in well-draining soil once they've rooted, they'll do fine almost any time of year.
Once the cuttings have roots that are at least 2 to 3 inches long, they can be moved from water to soil. Plant the cuttings in a small pot with drainage holes and well-drained potting mix. Water well and place in a bright location with indirect sunlight.
Benefits of Pruning Pothos
Pothos can become leggy, especially during winter, as the vines grow long and spindly in an attempt to reach weak, low light. By pruning your pothos regularly, you can maintain a reasonable size, create a bushier growth habit, or encourage new growth.
Propagating Pothos in Soil
Plant the cutting, ensuring every leaf node (or only the ones near the cut end) is covered. Place the container in a bright spot with indirect light. Keep the soil moist for a few days to enable root growth.
Many growers can improve the rooting of cuttings by more closely managing light during propagation. Manage light on an instantaneous basis. Light provides the energy for callus formation and the subsequent generation of adventitious roots.
Bright, Indirect Light: Pothos plants do best in bright, indirect light. Place your Pothos near a window with a sheer curtain, or in a spot that receives bright but filtered light. Avoid placing the plant in direct sunlight, as this can burn the leaves and cause them to wilt.
Sometimes the cuttings will already have some roots starting to grow on them. The next step is optional but may provide better results. You can let the cutting sit for a day or two before planting it. This will allow the cut end of the stem to callus over, which will help prevent it from rotting when it's planted.
Willow is good for rooting cuttings because it contains high concentrations of Indolebutyric acid (IBA), and also salicylic acid, from which aspirin is derived and which protects against fungi and other pathogens. To make willow water, simply gather around 2 cups of fresh willow growth chopped up into short lengths.
Using a sharp knife (or pruners) cut just below where a leaf attaches to the stem (the node). Roots grow easiest from this location. If you leave a section of stem below the node, it often rots.
Pothos will not survive without any light, but artificial sunlight can be used to supplement areas with too little light. Ideally, Pothos prefer 12-14 hours a day of indirect light exposure.
Philodendron leaves are thin, soft, and papery, whereas pothos leaves feel thicker and waxier. You can also eyeball the leaf shape to tell the difference: Philodendrons have heart-shaped leaves, while pothos plants bow out in a more traditional way.
Cuttings use energy to form new roots. If the cutting has leaves, most of the energy comes from photosynthesis. Expose these cuttings to bright light, but not direct sunlight, during the rooting period. If you use hardwood cuttings that have no leaves, the energy will come from reserves stored in the woody stem.
Success factors for rooting your cuttings
They'll root faster with plenty of sunlight, but avoid setting them in direct sun. Temperature is also important, the warmer the better to speed things up. For cuttings that are more valuable or difficult, adding a little aquarium pump to oxygenate the water will help a lot.
We recommend a photoperiod of 12-13 hours for the propagation of most annuals, especially for long-day plants such as petunia. Light Intensity. Desirable levels of light vary, depending primarily on the stage of root development.
Pothos/Devil's Ivy (Epipremnum Aureum)
Also known as Satin or Silk Pothos, the plant is toxic to both dogs and cats as it can irritate the mouth and tongue. In addition, your pet may also suffer from vomiting, increased salivation and swallowing difficulties.
To propagate Pothos in soil, take a 4”-6” cutting with a few leaves. It should be cut above a node at 45 degrees, and the bottom leaves should be removed. Dip the cut end in a rooting hormone to speed up the rooting process. Fill a pot with soil, water it slightly, and make a hole in the middle using a pencil.
However many Pothos Plants may grow bigger and happier looking leaves when Reaching up towards light. Here are some considerations for both options: Climbing: Pothos plants are natural climbers and can develop long vines with aerial roots.
Propagation. To propagate a Pothos, take a cutting that is about 2-3 inches long and cut just below a node (where a leaf is attached to the stem), ensuring the cutting has at least one leaf attached. Place the cutting in water or moist soil, keeping it in a warm, bright area but out of direct sunlight.