Consistent watering – Bottom watering provides an even distribution of moisture throughout the entire mass of soil. Top watering can result in dry spots, but this isn't an issue when water is slowly absorbed from the bottom. You can be assured your plants are getting enough water.
Can you over water by bottom watering? Yes, if the plant is sitting in water too long, you can still overwater your plant through bottom watering. However, bottom watering is a more controlled method of watering your plants.
All you need to do is set the potted plant (be sure it has drainage holes) into the bathtub, sink, or another container that's filled with a couple inches of water. After 15 to 20 minutes, the plant will have absorbed the exact amount it needs—never too little or too much.
He recommends: 'Using a mixture of bottom watering for every day with top watering to wash away the build-up of salts and minerals will keep your plants healthy, strong and well-watered. ' The build-up of salts should be dealt with every couple of months by watering from above.
The main drawback of bottom watering is potentially overfertilizing your plant. Because the soil isn't getting flushed from the top, minerals may build up in the soil, which can cause symptoms of nutrient excess or even chemical burn to the roots.
These plants are prime candidates for bottom watering: Plants with hairy or fuzzy leaves, such as African violets, or plants that don't like getting their leaves wet, such as snake plants, Philodendron verrucosum, and P. micans.
When plants have too little water, leaves turn brown and wilt. This also occurs when plants have too much water. The biggest difference between the two is that too little water will result in your plant's leaves feeling dry and crispy to the touch while too much water results in soft and limp leaves.
When bottom watering potted plants, the key is in the timing. Push your finger into the soil between the wall of the container and the stem of the plant. If you push down to the second knuckle and still don't feel moist soil, it's time to water the plant.
If you don't have a drainage hole in your pot, you probably shouldn't use it for an outdoor plant, unless the plant will be sheltered from rain. You need to micromanage the amount of water going into your pot; if it get's drenched in a downpour, all could be lost. More soil means more moisture for longer.
“Bottom-watering” is when you put your parched plant in a bucket of water and let it soak up what it needs through the drainage hole. (It's very fun. “Like a magic trick,” said Adams.) This keeps the top of your soil dry and therefore gnat-egg-proof.
Watering from the bottom encourages stronger and better root growth. The roots will grow and reach to access the water below. Bottom watering can prevent leaf or crown rot by not having water pooled up in the crown of plants like echeverias, snake plants, and other succulents.
Water Slowly
If the soil surface is dry, water may puddle or run off and not be absorbed. The solution is to start slowly and gradually build up to a thorough soak. Once the top few inches are moist, the water will be absorbed more easily.
While watering your yard plants with bottled water may be impractical, using bottled spring water for your indoor plants will make a big difference for them. To give your plants the absolute best, rainwater and bottled spring water are your best options. Any water containing sugar or salt will hurt them!
If your plants are indoor or outdoor, they'll also accumulate dust, dirt, and other debris like pet hair over time, which is why many gardeners opt for the occasional dunking. One of the reasons is that if too much dirt or dust builds up, it could block light from getting through and inhibiting photosynthesis.
Gardening FAQ
The problem with your soil resisting hydration is not uncommon. It usually begins with the soil being watered incompletely and then drying more than it should. After that it can become hydrophobic and actually repel water! The ingredient in the soil that is causing that problem is peat.
Because the water isn't going top-down, it doesn't remove any salts from the soil. Bottom watering is more time-consuming—you have to check your plant, fill the tray, wait for it to absorb, and drain the excess as well. We'll be honest: for larger plants, this method can take quite a bit of time.
1. If a plant is overwatered, it will likely develop yellow or brown limp, droopy leaves as opposed to dry, crispy leaves (which are a sign of too little water). Wilting leaves combined with wet soil usually mean that root rot has set in and the roots can no longer absorb water.
If it feels soft and limp, it is overwatered. Yellowing leaves: Usually accompanied by new growth falling, yellow leaves are an indication of overwatering. However, yellow, curling lower leaves can also be an indication of underwatering.
Poor drainage or improper watering
Water issues — either too much or too little — are the leading reason behind yellow leaves. In overly wet soil, roots can't breathe. They suffocate, shut down and stop delivering the water and nutrients plants need. Underwatering, or drought, has a similar effect.
Never be tempted to over-water. Over-watering is equally as harmful as under-watering. Letting a plant sit in water can cause it to rot. One of the reasons we recommend that you keep your plant in its nursery pot (the brown or black pot it arrives in) is that nursery pots have holes in the bottom, for drainage.
Cyperus. If your houseplants repeatedly succumb to root rot, get yourself a cyperus. Cyperus plants have tall grass-like shoots topped with slender bracts that droop downward in an umbrella shape. Cyperus are natives of tropical swamps, so it's virtually impossible to overwater them.