Never add Granular Chlorine to Chlorinator. Using the pucks can be a little tricky in the beginning. Again, without getting too technical, it is important not to overuse pucks. Having pucks dissolve too quickly can cause long-term problems with water chemistry, and this, regardless of your pool size.
The procedure for adding granular chlorine is pretty much the same as adding calcium chloride or sodium bicarb to a pool. Measure the dry chemical, pre-dissolve in a bucket, and pour around the perimeter of the pool (never into the skimmer directly). There are a few types of dry, granular chlorine.
Chlorine granules, meanwhile, are simply scattered over a pool. Their combination of a smaller consistency and lower concentration makes them much more suitable for this purpose than chlorine tablets, as they dissolve more easily. This, in turn, enables them to fight pool bacteria much more quickly as well.
Chlorine granules of either kind are an excellent choice for private pool owners because they don't require as much outside product use as liquid chlorine often does. Chlorine granules, especially dichlor, have a lower pH than liquid chlorine, so you can mix them into your pool water without having to add acid.
The benefit of chlorine tablets is that the tablets slowly dissolve over time so therefore you have a supply of chlorine entering the water over a period. Chlorine granules however must be added so there is a higher risk that levels may drop if the hot tub is not attended to, adding risk of bacteria growth.
Typically, a 3-inch pool chlorine tablet is designed to chlorinate from 7,500 to 10,000 gallons of water per week, meaning it'll take seven days to dissolve. If you have a 30,000-gallon pool, you'll need to place three 3-inch pool chlorine tablets in a chlorinator or floater.
Liquid chlorine and granular shock have the same active chemical that sanitizes your pool, what changes is the strength and the way you use it. Liquid chlorine is less costly, unstabilized and comes in liquid form. Granular shock is stabilized and comes in a solid form that dissolves in your pool.
Liquid chlorine may be a good choice if you have a large pool, but the costs associated with it, and the available chlorine per pound could mean that chlorine granules are the better option. In the end, both liquid chlorine and chlorine granules will do their job and keep your pool clean and clear.
Liquid chlorine and bleach (sodium hypochlorite) have a pH of 11.0 to nearly 13.0 so it is logical to think that they will raise the pH of the pool water. The fact is that initially or upon addition liquid chlorine raises pH because sodium hydroxide (lye) is made.
The cold water, anything below 65°, has an impact on the ability of the chemicals to dissolve properly. I would recommend using liquid chlorine if you have to shock in lower temperatures. You can dissolve granular shock in warm water. Perhaps it will work if you completely dissolve it before adding it to the pool.
Shock is liquid or granular chlorine. You should add one gallon (or one pound) of shock per 10,000 gallons of pool water every week to two weeks. During hot weather or frequent use, you may need to shock more frequently.
Not all Chlorine is Alike. Although we do not recommend packaged chlorine as a primary sanitizer in the hot water of spas, one type Dichlor Granular Chlorine is very good for occasional shocking and is a quick-dissolving form.
Do NOT use chlorine granules in a floater or feeder. When you're adding granules, broadcast them evenly over a wide area in the deepest part of the pool – NOT in the skimmer.
It is recommended to wait at least 20 minutes to an hour after adding water balancing chemicals. You should wait 2-4 hours (or one full cycle through the filter) to swim from the moment you use calcium chloride in your pool. It is safe to swim once your chlorine levels are around 5 ppm or after 24 hours.
Are chlorine and shock the same thing? SKIMMER NOTES: No. Chlorine and shock are not the same thing. Shock has a more intense chemical strength than the traditional chlorine sanitizers, and it also differs in how you should apply it to your swimming pool.
You can increase the chlorine levels in your hot tub by simply sprinkling the chlorine granules directly into your water (ensure the water temperature is over 20°C) or alternatively by pre‑diluting in a container of warm water (this method should always be used if you're applying to a hot tub with a water temperature ...
Because stabilizer granules are slow to dissolve, certain manufacturers recommend dissolving cyanuric acid in warm water before adding it to the pool. Others recommend broadcasting the granules over the pool by adding the product near a jet or return line.
It is easy to tell if you need more chlorine pucks in your skimmer basket. Since they dissolve, once they have disappeared just add more. Chlorine pucks also allow you to manually control how much chlorine is in your pool's water. It is usually 1 chlorine puck for every 5,000 gallons of water.
Switching from Chlorine to Bromine? To switch from chlorine to bromine, one simply needs to stop using chlorine tablets and begin using bromine tablets. If you use a tablet feeder or chlorinator, it should be replaced, so that chlorine residue does not come into contact with bromine, which could be dangerous.
In general, you'll need 3.5 US quarts (3.3 L) of liquid shock treatment or 1 pound (0.45 kg) of a granular product per 10,000 gallons (38,000 L) of water. To be sure, check the instructions for the amount needed to produce a 1 ppm change in chlorine levels.
2 ppm of Chlorine will take up to 4 and a half days or around 110 hours to evaporate from 10 gallons of standing water. Ultraviolet light, water circulation, and aeration will speed up the evaporation process dramatically. Chlorine will last between 6 and 8 minutes in 10 gallons of boiling tap water.
It's usually sold in granular form. Needs to be dissolved before you add it to the pool. Must be used after dusk. Allow eight hours to pass after shocking before you can safely swim.