If you want to insulate the internal walls and not lose too much space then you can dot and dab certain insulated plasterboard up. Some folk swear against insulated plasterboard but personally it's a great space saving alternative for internal walls, as you don't need to go mad on the insulation internally.
You can dot and dab insulated plasterboard, but I've glued 25mm foil faced cellotex to the wall, and then glued the plasterboard to that. Not sure of the size of the wall, but you could put a board along the bottom of the wall, and then cut a second board 130cm high, and keep patching the wall up and down.
If the insulated plasterboard is foil-backed then it is likely not suitable for dotting and dabbing. Double check with the manufacturer if you have doubts.
Firstly you will need to clear the wall from loose debris and dust , then , using blue grit or pva and sand ( to give ua sealed surface and a good substrate to enable dot and dab ) .
Hello, I would advise against dot and dabbing an even remotely damp wall due to the risk of there still being moisture in the substrate which is highly likely given that most masonry is porous.
The bituminous coating must first be completely removed and the surface prepared, as usual, for an application of Tanking Slurry. Can I use a dot and dab application on top of Tanking Slurry? Yes.
Corefix 100 heavy duty steel-reinforced fixing for dot and dab (plasterboard over blockwork) walls. Suitable for all brick and block types, including lightweight blockwork. Ideal for fixing brackets, shelves and heavy items such as TVs, wall units, boilers and radiators.
It's common practice to apply PVA adhesive as a primer before using the dot and dab technique, ensuring better adhesion of the plasterboard to the wall.
Mounting a TV on dot and dab insulated plasterboard
There are a few fixing options for dot and dab walls including anchor bolts or specialist steel-cored rawl plugs which transfer the load through the plasterboard and into the wall.
Builders use dot and dab where there is no stud wall to screw (or nail) the plasterboard to. If dot and dab isn't suitable for your project, then stud work may be a better option. This technique involves attaching the plasterboard to metal studs or timber studs that have been placed at regular intervals along the wall.
Repeat the process until all your plasterboard sheets have been secured to the wall. Once dry, you can seal the joints between the plasterboards and skim the wall ready for decorating.
When it comes to foil insulation, it's generally recommended to leave an air gap of at least 25mm (1 inch) between the foil layer and the surface it's installed on. This allows the foil to reflect radiant heat, rather than simply absorbing it.
If plasterboarding a solid wall, battening is far more time-consuming than the dot-and-dab method. However, it offers additional benefits, helping avoid dampness, and adding a layer of insulation to your wall.
Certainly, the dot and dab method is a widely used and effective technique for attaching insulated plasterboard directly to solid walls.
You can easily "dot and dab" plasterboard or any from our product that is designed as construction board. HB60 heat-resistant property allows the product to be used for fixing insulation boards to any surface that may exceed high temperatures, even up to 750 Celsius degree.
Moisture damage can be a big problem with tiles that have been applied through the dot and dab method. Even waterproof adhesive cannot compensate for gaps where the area between the back of the tile and underlying surface is not filled.
As a result, fixing using dot and dab adhesive installation methods is not advisable - and plasterboard screws or plasterboard nails are essential fixings. The key is fixing the plasterboards to the ceiling joists, which form the equivalent support structure for the ceiling as studs do in a stud wall.
If you find the plaster boards have been fitted directly onto a brick wall, then you'll need to remove and refit them. The best ways to attach plaster boards to a brick wall is to use either the dot and dab method, attach them to timber battens, or use a plasterboard adhesive foam.
Foil-backed boards are not well-suited to dot-and-dab application techniques.
Down sides of dot and dab
Block work walls are generally built by bricklayers 'on a price' and as a result they are of a less than perfect construction, with frequent gaps and cracks that remain unfilled. These are then covered over by the plasterboard linings.
Blue grit generally takes around 24 hours to dry, however, the drying time can vary depending on the environment that the application is taking place in. It may take longer in lower temperatures than it would in higher temperatures. You should only need to apply one coat, so once it has dried it you are good to go!
The standard thickness of adhesive dabs tends to be around 10mm once compressed between the board and the substrate. You also have the additional 12.5mm of the plasterboard sheets on top of this so, with thicknesses combined, you can expect an altogether depth of around 22.5mm.
Over Boarding Solid Walls With Cement Boards
Step 2: For best results, 'dot and dab' using a single-part flexible tile or board adhesive. Apply the boards directly to the wall keeping them level, flat and plumb. Step 3: Apply a small bead of Mega Strength onto the edges of each board to achieve a waterproof seal.
Dot & dab: Always 25mm proud with the dry lining firms I work with. 10mm adhesive, 12.5 board, 3-4mm skim.