Grass will not grow back in areas where the roots have been completely severed. Because grubs eat the root system, the dead turf will pull up like a carpet. While actively growing warm-season grasses (like Bermuda) can sometimes bounce back if roots remain, cool-season lawns require reseeding or new sod.
Repairing a grub-damaged lawn involves four key steps: eliminating the active grubs, removing dead turf, reseeding the bare patches, and keeping the soil moist. Always tackle the grubs first so your new grass doesn't suffer the same fate.
Curative Treatments: Late summer to early fall (August – September). Kills on contact, so it's effective at this stage with grubs feeding near the surface. Applying too late (past October) can give pests time to bury deep for the winter and escape. Too early (June – July) can miss late hatchers.
After a grub attack, a lot or most of the leaves of your grass may have been removed. This too will remove a lot of the moisture from your lawn. To help replace lost moisture, irrigate regularly during the recovery period. You can adjust the duration and number of times you need to water to suit current conditions.
For instant results, apply a curative chemical insecticide containing Trichlorfon (e.g., BioAdvanced 24 Hour Grub Killer Plus). When watered in, these products penetrate the soil and kill active grubs within 24 hours. For a natural alternative, spray a mixture of equal parts white vinegar and water with a few drops of dish soap.
The ideal time to apply grub control depends on your treatment strategy:
Moist soil. Whether you over-water your lawn or have poor drainage, excess moisture creates an ideal habitat for grubs. Thatch. Beetles like to hide and lay their eggs in thick layers of grass rich in organic material so there's plenty of food for the larvae once they hatch.
No, grubs will not go away on their own. Because they are the larval stage of beetles, the infestation will continue to spread and worsen. As they mature, they turn into adult beetles, fly out to mate, and return to lay fresh eggs in your soil.
A lawn with grub damage typically features irregular, brown patches of dying grass that feel spongy underfoot and easily pull up from the soil, similar to lifting a rug. Because grubs consume roots, the grass loses its ability to absorb water, leading to drought-like symptoms, even if the lawn is watered, often in late summer or fall.
Grubs are attracted to your lawn because it provides the perfect environment for adult beetles to lay their eggs. They love well-irrigated, moist soil and yards with a thick layer of thatch (dead grass and roots), as this gives larvae a rich food source as soon as they hatch.
To apply grub control granules, you'll want to mow the lawn first, as well as make sure that the lawn is dry and that there is no rain predicted for the next 24 hours. The protective equipment you want to wear for this application includes long sleeves, long pants, shoes, and socks.
Grub damage to lawn is also caused by birds, skunks, armadillos, raccoons or moles are tearing up your lawn —they eat Grubs and are trying to uncover them. These animals also dig and eat Earthworms, so confirm Grubs are present before pursuing any treatment. Your turf has become spongy.
Grub worms (the larval stage of certain insects) turn into adult scarab beetles. Depending on the specific species, these plump, C-shaped soil dwellers will typically mature into Japanese beetles, June bugs, May or June beetles, or masked chafers.
Aerating the soil is another effective way to reduce grub infestations. The beetles that spawn the most destructive grubs prefer compacted soil for their eggs. Aerating the soil is beneficial for the turf in many ways, but in areas with a higher risk for grubs, it is crucial.
Key Takeaways. Stop mowing your lawn in the fall when temperatures consistently drop below 50°F for warm-season grasses or 40°F for cool-season grasses. Typically, these temperatures occur from late October to early November in northern regions and early to mid-December in southern regions.
When it's October, people often wonder if it is too late to plant new seed. The good news is if you hurry, seed can still be planted in October with the hope that it will survive the upcoming winter. Although September is the best time, often we can still plant grass seed up to October 15 with good results.
For instant results, apply a curative chemical insecticide containing Trichlorfon (e.g., BioAdvanced 24 Hour Grub Killer Plus). When watered in, these products penetrate the soil and kill active grubs within 24 hours. For a natural alternative, spray a mixture of equal parts white vinegar and water with a few drops of dish soap.
Lawn grubs (the larvae of beetles) typically live for one year. However, certain species, such as May or June beetles, have life cycles that span two to three years.
Effective lawn grub control requires choosing between preventive and curative treatments based on the season. Apply preventive products (e.g., Scotts GrubEx) in late spring or early summer to stop newly hatched grubs, or use curative treatments (e.g., [BioAdvanced 24-Hour Grub Killer Plus](https://www.homedepot.com/p/BIOADVANCED-10-lb-24-Hour-Grub Killer-Plus-Granules-700740A/202021495)) to eliminate active, root-munching grubs.
By the time you see damage in spring, grubs have likely finished feeding for the season. Focus on preventive treatments in early to mid‑summer and curative treatments in late summer if populations exceed thresholds.
Grass will not grow back in areas where the roots have been completely severed. Because grubs eat the root system, the dead turf will pull up like a carpet. While actively growing warm-season grasses (like Bermuda) can sometimes bounce back if roots remain, cool-season lawns require reseeding or new sod.
Treating and eradicating these pests is relatively easy. You will need to be particularly vigilant as the weather warms up, usually September to March, and after heavy rain. Couch and Kikuyu varieties are usually the most prone to attack and Buffalo to a lesser extent.
Yes. Lawn grubs survive winter by digging deeper into the soil where temperatures stay above freezing. Most burrow 4 to 6 inches below the surface once the top layer cools below 50 degrees. In this layer, they enter a semi-dormant state.
Skunks and raccoons actively forage for white grubs, using their keen sense of smell to locate pockets of larvae beneath the sod. When grubs are available near the surface, repeated nighttime visits are common until the food source is depleted.
To determine if grubs (beetle larvae) are killing your lawn, check for soft, spongy turf, irregular brown patches, and grass that lifts up easily. Because grubs eat grass roots from beneath, they destroy the plant's lifeline.