All stains and finishes depend on evaporation to dry, but when the temperature is below 65 degrees or above 90 degrees, or the humidity level is above 50%, then the evaporation process is either too slow or too fast, causing your finish to either not dry or dry too quickly, turning white — like my deck!
Mayonnaise. "Mayonnaise works well to treat heat stains, or white stains on wood from fluid," says Poepping. Dip a microfiber cloth in a bit of mayonnaise. Dab the mayonnaise onto the stain, continuously wiping the spot clean as you work.
White spots on wood after staining can be caused by moisture getting trapped under the finish, either due to heat or condensation1. One way to fix this issue is to remove the moisture by using more heat1. Another option is to remove part of the stain to get rid of the milky white layer.
The most common reason is an incompatible stain.
When the top coat is applied, the oil in the stain seeps up through the finish and reacts with the acrylic causing a chemical blush.
Sun Exposure and UV Damage
One of the primary culprits for decking turning white is prolonged exposure to sunlight.
It's just sap leaching out of the wood and drying on the surface. It's hard to clean off, and will probably come back several times if you do clean it off. PT is generally very wet when the lumber yards get it, so it can take several seasons (years) before all the sap that will come out does.
The sun beating down, the rain pounding, and the snow piling high. Dirt and residue are going to settle in and build upon that flat surface. That's why it's so important to treat your deck with a good quality stain or paint. The best stains should last 3-5 years when applied correctly.
A Better Way to Tell
To tell if it is still good, start with a visual inspection. Discard finishes that have become thick, rubbery, stringy or separated, as well as those with a skunky odor or obvious mold growth. Ditto for water-based paint or finish that looks like cottage cheese.
“All that white mark is,” said Gat Caperton, “is trapped moisture. The finish on your furniture is there to prevent the exchange of moisture from the air to the wood.
Just wipe the wet surface with a lacquer thinner rag or with acetone either one. Make sure to use a WHITE RAG. Wear gloves and respirator and keep away from sparks and flames. Both of these solvents evaporate very quickly and will loosen the tints and paraffins that delay dry times in stains.
If you apply a second, unnecessary coat of stain to wood that is already adequately covered, you risk creating a tacky surface that is prone to early peeling because the second coat is not penetrating the wood surface, but simply laying on top of the first coat of stain.
Buff the surface lightly and evenly with No. 0000 steel wool dipped in linseed oil. Work with the grain of the wood, rubbing evenly on the entire surface, until the white haze disappears. Then wipe the wood clean with a soft cloth, apply two coats of hard furniture wax, and buff the surface to a shine.
If you don't wipe off excess wood stain, it can result in uneven color and poor adhesion.
You can only apply a dark stain over a light stain, not the other way around. If you want to go lighter on an existing finish, you will have to strip the furniture, unfortunately. The furniture must be in good condition. It cannot have water damage or peeling/cracking on the surface.
Applying a dab of common household items like mayonnaise or petroleum jelly may help remove the water stains on your wood furniture. A home cleaning classic, white vinegar can also be used to remove tough water stains.
In a bowl, combine one part toothpaste with two parts baking soda to create a thick paste. Apply some of the mixture to the white heat mark on your wood table and allow it to sit for a minute or two before wiping it from the surface. You may need to do this a few times in order for the stain to fully disappear.
That white mark is moisture absorbed by the finish, which is a sure sign of a worn out finish.
Common bleach and water can be used for cleaning mold. The U.S. Centers for Disease Control (CDC) recommends using a solution of 10 parts water to one part bleach to clean mold from surfaces. gent, 10 parts bleach and 20 parts warm water.
Lightly sand the surface with fine-grit sandpaper to ensure an even surface. Wipe away any dust with a tack cloth. Reapply the stain liberally, working in small sections. Immediately wipe off the excess with a clean rag, moving in the direction of the wood grain.
Often when people restain timber, the old Stain is either sanded away, is already flaking off, or can be restained over. While you can restain a deck over an existing stain without sanding or removing the existing peeling product, this isn't always recommended and can leave your deck looking a little worse for wear.
The longer the stain is left on, the deeper and richer the color will be. For consistent color, use careful timing. Never allow any stain to dry on the wood surface—it will prevent the clear finish from adhering and cause other issues.
Because you want to wait for days that aren't excessively hot or humid, the best times to apply deck stains are in the late spring and early fall, when the weather is moderately warm and dry.
Can applying too much stain harm my deck? Yes, over-application can cause stickiness, poor adhesion, and peeling. Apply thin, even coats and remove excess stain immediately.
Apply solid stains in thin coats and semi-transparent stains or clear sealers in even thinner coats. This prevents puddles that don't soak into the wood and cause the stain to flake off when dry. Whatever type of stain you use, apply two coats to ensure there are no missed spots and to get a more uniform finish.